Marooncobra Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 (edited) At last I have completed the cam fit. Had to wait for permission to have the car off the road from Home Command!!!! I know there are a lot of you out there who want to see how it went so I have put together a step by step method of fitting them and a selection of photos to aid the description. Tools required: 10mm Socket, Open jaw & ratchet spanner 12mm Socket, Open jaw & ratchet spanner 14mm Socket, Open jaw & ratchet spanner 17mm Socket, Open jaw & ratchet spanner 19mm Socket, Open jaw & ratchet spanner 21mm Open jaw spanner (hold camshaft) 27mm Socket (crankshaft bolt) 1/2” drive ratchet 1/2” 12” and 6” extensions 3/8” drive swivel ratchet (for rear camshaft bolts) Torque wrench Selection of screwdrivers Dial Test Indicator and Magnetic base Hammer Brass drift 3 Legged puller Oil tray Rags Oil can with clean engine oil Moly grease Oil filter Oil 1. Remove the plastic skid pan from below the engine (10mm bolts). Change oil and oil filter (14mm drain plug). 2. Drain coolant from radiator (use screwdriver to remove drain plug in bottom of radiator). As I have electric fans fitted I didn’t need to do this but if you have a conventional set up you need to remove the fan shroud and fan assembly from the water pump. Remove top and bottom radiator hose assemblies (hose clips and 12mm mounting bolt fitted to bottom rad hose). Plug exposed holes on engine with rags to prevent anything falling in!!!! 3. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler hoses (squeeze clips together with pliers) from the bottom of the radiator and drain any transmission fluid into a collecting pan. Remove the radiator (10mm nuts on locating plates at top of radiator) and place in a safe area so it doesn’t fall over. 4. Loosen the water pump pulley (10mm nuts) first and then loosen the three ancillary drive belts (12mm nuts) and remove the belts. You need to loosen the idler pulley centre nut first to allow you to slacken off the tensioner. Remove the water pump pulley. Remove the two ancillary idler pulley frameworks (12 mm nuts and bolts). 5. Remove the spark plug leads and distributor cap. Whilst looking at the rotor arm and using a 27mm socket and long 1/2” drive bar turn engine over to TDC No 1 (rotor arm will be at the 6 o’clock position). I didn’t remove the spark plugs for this as I didn’t want to drop anything into a cylinders whilst working. Just be aware that there is a bit of pressure due to the compression and take your time so the crank doesn’t try and throw you back. Prior to removing the distributor (12mm bolt) mark the position of the rotor arm in relation to the distributor body to aid timing process on rebuild. Plug exposed hole with a rag to prevent anything dropping in!!!!! 6. Loosen and remove the throttle cable and cruise control cable from the throttle body (12mm nuts). Reroute the cables so they hang outside of the engine bay. Disconnect the air vacuum pipe connected to the brake servo (squeeze clip together with pliers). The next step requires the disconnection of the wiring harness from the top of the engine (a total of 11 connectors). Again once all the quick connection plugs are disconnected you will be able to move the harness out of the way. I did not disconnect any of the fuel injection plugs as they could stay in situ. 7. Next remove the oil breather pipes from the front side of the engine (10mm bolts) connecting the two rocker covers and then remove the rear breather pipe located on the rear left rocker cover. 8. The removal of the plenum chamber is next but there are a few connections that need to be removed. This part is a real pain and you need small hands to get to the rear area of the engine bay to disconnect bits. To ease matters I will tell you where the bits are that need to be removed/loosened whilst standing at the front of the car. a. On the right hand side of the engine you need to remove the heater matrix hose (screwdriver) and exhaust cross over emission tube (pipe grips). I also removed the throttle body (12mm bolts and two hose clips) to ease removal of the emission tube. b. On the left hand side to the rear you need to disconnect two coolant hoses (screwdriver). c. At the rear of the plenum chamber you need to disconnect a coolant hose (squeeze clip together with pliers), disconnect a vacuum hose (pull off) d. Remove the 5 hex bolts holding the plenum chamber to the intake manifold (10mm hex bolts). Once all is loose you need to lift the plenum chamber up which will then allow you to disconnect the two electrical connectors located underneath it. The plenum chamber should then be free to remove from the engine. Plug all exposed intake holes with rags to prevent anything dropping in !!!!!! 8. Remove starter motor (17mm bolts) and use an implement to hold flywheel to allow you to loosen the crankshaft front pulley bolt (27mm bolt). I used a chisel. Use a 3 legged puller to remove crankshaft front pulley. Replace bolt and washer into crankshaft to aid turning engine over later. 9. Remove top and bottom cam belt covers (10mm bolts). Check timing marks on camshaft sprockets and crankshaft align to confirm engine is at TDC No 1. Use white paint to mark timing marks if difficult to identify. 10. Remove LH rocker cover (screwdriver) to expose valve train. Loosen the rocker assemblies (12mm bolts) a ¼ turn at a time in the correct sequence as laid down in the manual. Remove the two rocker shaft assemblies. Remove the hydraulic follower cage assembly from the engine. In the manual it says to wire the hydraulic followers together prior to removal but I just lifted the assembly and turned it over quickly to prevent the followers falling out. 11. Repeat stage 10 for the RH bank. 12. Slacken off the cam belt tensioner and remove cam belt. As all valve train has already been removed you can now turn cams without fear of damage to valve train or piston tops. Remove the camshaft sprockets from the cams (14mm bolts) by holding the cams with a spanner (24mm). Don’t mix the two camshaft sprockets up as they are different. Remove the cam belt back plate (10mm bolts) 13. Remove the rear cam covers from rear of cylinder heads (10mm bolts). I used a ratchet spanner to get into the tight area to remove these covers. There are additional items connected to these covers, tranny dipstick tube and water heater matrix pipe. Once removed use the 3/8” swivel ratchet and 19mm socket to loosen rear camshaft bolts whilst using a spanner (21mm open jaw spanner) to hold the camshaft. Be aware that once the bolt and washer have been removed approx 100mm of oil will flow out of the cam as it is hollow and used as part of the oil system to lubricate the valve train. 14. Use a screwdriver to remove the camshaft oil seals and then withdraw the camshafts from the heads. Be careful not to damage the camshaft bearing surfaces in the head as you remove the cams. You will need to angle the cams upwards and above the air con condenser matrix towards the end of withdrawing them from the heads. 15. Fit new camshafts into heads ensuring that you lubricate all bearing surfaces and that you are careful not to damage the camshaft bearing surfaces in the head as you refit the cams. Once installed in head refit new oil seals and refit cam belt back plate. Fit cam belt sprockets ensuring they are on the correct cams and tighten to correct torque. Refit both rear camshaft bolts and washers and tighten to correct torque. 16. You now need to check the camshaft end float with a Dial Test Indicator (DTI) and magnetic base. Set up magnetic base on a ferrous part of the engine and set the DTI to measure +/- end float. I needed to change both washers as I had 0.10mm end float on one cam and 0.00 end float on the other. Spec from manual is 0.03 – 0.06mm. After changing the washers for replacements (type C and B washers) from Nissan, two weeks delivery from Japan, check end float again. 17. Rebuild of the engine is reverse of the strip down but make sure you use new followers, cam belt and tensioner. Apply Moly grease to all cam lobes and hydraulic followers and lube all valve train with oil prior to replacing the rocker covers. 18. During rebuild I also took the opportunity to replace all coolant hoses under and around the plenum chamber knowing how difficult it is to replace them once rebuilt. I also replaced all six spark plugs. 19. On completion of rebuild the cams need to be run in. I carried this out with my wife so she could sit at the controls whilst I stood at the engine bay listening and observing for any faults/noises. Note that as you can not run the engine initially to set the ignition timing, the revs will be too low to lubricate cams sufficient during the run in, therefore you have to set it up approximately. This is the main reason why you need to mark the rotor arm in relation to the distributor as detailed in part 5. It is not critical at this point as the engine will not be under load but just keep your eye on the water temp as this is an indication if it is too far out: a. Start engine and raise revs to 2000 rpm immediately to ensure adequate oil supply to cams and valve train. Listen for any strange noises. You may hear a tappet noise for a few seconds but this should disappear once the oil pressure is up. If you feel something is not right switch off engine, investigate and fix it. Once fixed restart engine and raise revs to 2000 RPM immediately again. b. After 5 mins raise engine RPM to 3000 rpm. c. After 10 mins slowly fluctuate RPM between 2000 and 3000 RPM. d. After 20 mins allow engine to idle and then switch off. Cams are now run in. e. Check ignition timing 15 degrees BTDC with a timing light. As I am able to switch over to dual fuel (LPG) I have set mine to 20 degrees BTDC. 20. JTW recommends no engine revs above 4000 RPM for the first 500 kms and to carryout an oil change after 100 kms. 21. Total time to carryout work was 4 nights (1700 – 2100 hrs). Time taken for two camshaft thrust washers to arrive from Japan via local Nissan garage 10 days. Edited August 15, 2007 by Marooncobra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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