bajapathy

I JUST installed (turned it on yesterday) an entirely new sound system in my Non-Bose 1996 SE. 1-mid 1-tweeter 1-crossover each door, amp in the rear tub, flat amp'd 8" sub box (Sound Ordnance, ~$150). I used the stock door speaker wire and cut in at the amp. The door-to-frame wiring seemed like a better, easier, and greater longevity solution than running my own wire. Since its non-bose there is one amp at the drivers side rear-trunk panel, so I cut into the connector, grafted the speaker wires coming from the amp (like a 2-foot stretch), ran the 12v battery, remote power and RCA's down the drivers side, ran the 12v battery through the firewall where the clutch master should be (automatic), put a power distribution block where the old amp was so I could run both amps. BOOM. sounds great I used this website plus an aftermarket connector that fits my truck (free from crutchfield when I bought the headunit) http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf I used this website to cut into the amp to speaker connections. http://www.modifiedlife.com/1996-nissan-pathfinder-car-radio-stereo-wiring-diagram/ From crutchfield I bought 1-JVC Arsenal KD-AHD79 ipod controls, indash CD, 4 channel RCA out plus 1 RCA sub out 2-Kicker DS65.2 (need a 1-3/4" hole-saw drill bill for the tweeters. buy the cheapest one you can you're drilling through cardboard) 1-Sound Ordnance™ M-4075 to power the doors. plugs into the head unit with 2 RCA cables 1-Sound Ordnance™ B-8PT sounds like it will fit under the front seat but it wont. its in the back near the power distribution block and other amp the above was ~$550 a few weeks ago but has since shot up. I'd find something similar from other manufacturers and buy those items you're gonna need a power distribution block, or, run two power lines to the battery. I bought mine at Fry's for $6. looks a lot like this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_30042_db-Link-MANLFB428.html?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=froogle&rkg_attid=457665771&zmam=75672847&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=30042 you are also going to need 1 or 2 amp installation kits (one came free with the amp, the other I bought). Or 20" of 4 gauge wire with connectors and an 80amp fuse near the battery, 10' of 8 gauge, power distribution block, 3 RCA cables, 40 feet of 20 gauge for remote turn-on, and a ~40 connectors, 4awg to 16-20awg. and a zillion zip ties. It sounds great. not a show stopper but I was only looking to upgrade my stuff to acceptable not WestCoastCustoms. I'd bet the install is $500-$1000 though, so this is a $1500-$2000 system (total guess) hope this helps someone. Cheers, MeLoN

Thanks man, I will check it out and report back!

It's pretty bad when I start replying to my own posts I'm going to go with this: http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant...duct_Code=13091 I figured I could run temp experiments and post the results before and after the change to synthetic. then from stock cooling to aftermarket (if necessary. If there is anyone else interested stay tuned.

My tranny cooler/filter/synthetic fluid project is proceeding apace. But which filter do I want? And what line size? http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant...e=inline-filter These seem to be well thought of in the truck industry. Seems too easy too. I need to suffer more when I take on a project... Comments, links, rock-throwing, are all encouraged... Thanks

What he said. test test test thats me I figured if it ran ok on 87, the lowest and least expensive grade I could buy, in the heat of summer, and the diff in economy (if any) wasnt significant given the $.20-$.30 per gallon delta, I figured what the fork. And sharing is caring. Except for STDs :tonguefinger: Ciao, BajaPathy

Theoretically this is a true statement. Practically speaking it is false, given differences in combustion chamber dimensions (size, shape, flame front propagation properties, etc) amongst different engines, and given electronic control over timing and fuel delivery again amongst different engines. YMMV </crappy cliche> The only way to know for sure is testing. Cheers

Yes, I've read and noted many posts in this regard, many by you. I spent some time thinking about it. 1. The B&M has a bypass for cold (well, too viscous) fluid. Not sure how well it works, but I will say I looked for and never found any complaints about the trans being too cold with a bypass cooler. 2. I dont live in a cold area. 40F here is FREEZING (lmao at 40F and freezing in same sentence) 3. That stock cooler can clog and kill. Hyperbole or fact? 4. I'd THINK (the operative being 'think', like that has never gotten me into trouble) that an engine warm up before driving plus the tranny cooler bypass would alleviate this problem. Feel free to continue this dialogue , I am not stating I'm correct, just what was in the archives, and my take on what I found, and my most probable course of action given this info. Cheers!

OK, srsly, I've read (I think) everything in the archives here and in 4x4parts. Newb Conclusion: If you live in a warm area (SoCal), buy a ~+12K GVW tranny cooler with the cold fluid bypass (B&M), and bypass the stock cooler and radiator cooler/heater which can clog and kill. Putting in a trans filter at this point isnt a bad idea either. Have U-Haul do it, apparently the cheapest out there. If you live in a cold area, YMMV. Maybe a better warmitup does the trick, dont know...

Victim/Patient: 1996 SE 4X4 automatic Fuel: Union 76, Cali-craptane... Driving style: I drive really moderate. Car never saw full throttle, never saw 4000 rpm either. Max highway speed not-to-exceed ~70 mph. A/C used ~+95%. Same pump at same gas station 91 octane, ~40% highway, 60% street: 16.5 MPG. Comments: NONE 89 octane, ~60% Highway, 40% street: 16.5 MPG. Comments: Could be pinging on really steep hills (I live on billy-goat trails in the Santa Monica Mtns), but I think it is a heat shield or something vibrating, no codes 87 octane, ~50% highway, 50% street: 15.3 mpg. Huh. Retarding timing? Even with the drop in mpg, 87 at ~$.10 cheaper pre gallon seems more economical overall than 89. $2.92 x 15.3 = $44.68 $3.02 x 16.5 = $49.83 Cheers

Holy Carp somebody pin this, just saying. Hall Of Fame Post is what I'm trying to say Thanks Mate.

Excellent idea, safety in numbers in Baja. I am planning a few surf trips per year there with the teenage kids and (hopefully) The Wife. I only have one more R50 pathfinder to buy (seriously...). I want a low mileage non-towing SE pathy with the tire carrier, just like the one I just bought. I'm in Bev Hills, sounds like you are in the South Bay. I'll keep peeps here posted on my fall/winter trip planning. Feel free to do the same Cheers, Gary

Will do. Looking forward myself to hitting Cabo San Quintin, Punta Abreojos, Camalu, etc, need a decent sand-runner to get there, hence the Pathfinder.

thank you sir! *ordering* I really dig this truck...

Hi all, this is my first post, , Just bought a new (to me) white 1996 SE 4x4 with 60,000 miles, perfectly maintained, including the fuel filter. Plan on taking it to Baja, so mild offroading and sand/beach trekking. Been reading previous posts, want to AMSoil the drivetrain, and was wondering if anyone is running the ATD and/or the severe gear as opposed to the regular synthetic ATF and gear lube. Overkill? Automatic Transmission and Transfer Case: Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid versus Torque-Drive™ Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATD) Differential, Front and Controlled Slip Differential, Rear: 75W-90 or Severe Gear 75W-90 Thanks