mws Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 Spent a couple hours diagnosing little blue ('95). Root problem: Both keyways are hogged out on the crank snout (harmonic balancer and cam belt pulley). Fortunately, the PO noticed something was amiss when it started losing power and parked it before the cam pulley key sheared off entirely! It had about 3-5 degrees of free movement, but not enough to put valves into pistons. So now we have to decide whether to weld up and regrind, or just replace crank. She has about 150K miles. I would prefer to replace crank and front and rear seals as there is quite a bit of oil mist down there, and because the truck is for my nephew' youngest son - a great guy who needs reliable transport to get him through college. Truck is immaculate and worth investing in. So what is involved in swapping the crank while engine remains in frame? I can see that oil pump, differential, crossmembers need to come out. It appears we will need to remove engine mounts and hoist her a bit. No problems there, just time. What about transmission (automatic)? Does it need to come all the way out, or can it just be slid back a bit? How difficult to unbolt tranny? She does not have a body lift. I assume it would be easier if the transfer case was unbolted first? Any tips and warnings appreciated! I prefer to go in knowing what to expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 Getting the pan off will be a bitch unless you hike up the engine or remove a cross member. Once you have the pan out, the crank is fairly easy to get to. I'd send you mine but I spun a main bearing on it (which is why it sits in my garage). Grab a 95 FSM online (PM me if you need it) and take a look before you start tearing into it. I think the first step is "remove engine" but I could be wrong. Did mine on the bench (so to speak) since I was swapping engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 Martin, Just pull the motor, way easier, and gives you room on the stand to do it right the 1st time... Dont try and do it half A$$'s, or you may end up needing more than a Cam.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GhostPath Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 Yup, far easier to do it with the engine out. You can put it on a stand, flip it over and work on it without having to worry about the pistons and rods falling out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 Martin, Just pull the motor, way easier, and gives you room on the stand to do it right the 1st time... Dont try and do it half A$$'s, or you may end up needing more than a Cam.... 3rd that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 You can take the trans and t-case out as a pair OK, I did on the 89. Just a lot of unbolting, following wires and detaching stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted July 17, 2007 Share Posted July 17, 2007 3rd that. I'll 4th it, but... I think that if you drop the front drive/suspension, unbolt the T-Bar cross member, rear drive shaft and then slide the tranny back you could probably do it in the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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