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Any Experience with AIMCO ventilated brake rotors?


Trainman
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So I need new rotors (2001 R50, AT AllMode) and it has been suggested that I get the NAPA Premium @ $140 per or AIMCO® Extreme ventilated brake rotors @ $200 per (from Lordco here in BC).

 

Just wondering if there is any advantage to the $200 ones or if the NAPA would be "good enough".

 

Merci,

 

Vented rotors:

extremedrumandrotor.jpg

 

aimcoextremerotorsbox.jpg

Edited by Trainman
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I have no experience with those brands but what I do notice is that the number of vents and/or slots seems low for "extreme ventilated".

 

Maybe the design does provide enough performace gain over stock to warrent the name, but I am use to upgraded rotors along these lines

 

brakes-rotors.jpg61B00.jpg

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Thanks,

 

The issue I have is the warping of the rotors that the R50 is prone to (well discussed elsewhere on the forum) and I am looking for reasonably priced alternatives to the OEM or "econo" rotors that would typically be installed. I am happy with the brake performance, just the warping issue. Even NAPA suggested that if I could get a reasonably priced cross-drilled ventilated rotor it would be better than their "premium" line (they do not sell cross-drilled rotors).

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Vented rotors work by allowing the brakes to run cooler, which extends the life of the pads, allows for more consistent braking even under heavy use and also reduces the chance of the rotors warping.

 

A quote from an aftermarket rotor manufacturer

One of the biggest problems after installing large, oversize tires and wheels is an inadequate brake system. The increased weight and rolling diameter cause excessive loads, and heat build up on the front brake rotors which leads to rapid fade. This Ultra Cool system will eliminate most of the problem.

NWOR's cross-drilled rotors have holes machined and radiused into the face of the rotor. The hole pattern increases air flow without effecting the structural across the brake pad contact area. This increases stopping ability by reducing heat-induced fade.

 

Our Ultra Cool rotors offer superior wet weather performance by pushing the water through the holes.

 

That targets large increases in tire size but also applies to stock setups as well.

 

Something of note here is that NWOR (Northwest Off-Road Specialties) unfortunately cannot help you in your search for better rotors for your Pathfinder. they are Toyota only specialists.

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Eh, drilled rotors wear pads faster, crack easier, and warp sooner. They do stop faster, but for longevity and performance I'd go slotted. (Not to mention all of the mud and rocks that will be flowing through those offroad)

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Funny that there is still a perception and marketing claims that holes will cool better. All of the objective side by side testing I have ever seen concluded there is NO difference in cooling OR wet performance. The main reasons holes are still cut are:

1) Styling

2) Weight reduction

3) Pad cleaning (slots do equally well with fewer problems)

 

And drilled rotors are still prone to cracking. Punched are less prone.

 

Best prevention for warping? When using brakes harder where they get hot (like coming to a complete stop from 80 mph), do NOT come to a complete stop and leave the pads clamped without any movement. The pad is an insulator. The section of rotor under the pads stays ripping hot while the rest of the rotor is cooling rapidly.

 

Once you come to a stop, let the vehicle creep forward or back a few inches every 10 seconds or so to let the hot spot be exposed and cooled.

 

Since starting to do this, I have never had any warped rotors, even when towing heavy loads in the Sierras...

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Some good stuff here.

 

So how about frozen rotors? Only $118.40 US plus shipping per for 02 Pathy.

 

Frozen Rotors

 

From their web site:

 

 

The cost-saving solution for better braking performance

Frozen Rotors® from Diversified Cryogenics deliver increased performance and a higher level of safety while significantly reducing braking system costs. Our proprietary, 60-hour cryogenic process permanently and dramatically improves the usage life and stability of brake rotors to create a distinct advantage in tensile strength, abrasive wear resistance and rotor longevity.

 

Increase Performance

Frozen Rotors® resist cracking, warping and fading. By using the cryogenic process to inhibit internal oxidation and increase thermal fatigue resistance, Frozen Rotors® can last up to three times as long as untreated rotors.

 

Increase Safety

Frozen Rotors® provide more predictable, consistent braking–even under extreme circumstances.They are the ideal choice for high-usage and high-performance vehicles that demand reliability and safety.

 

Reduce Costs

By extending the life of your braking system with the exceptional durability of Frozen Rotors®, you can save thousands of dollars in brake rotor and pad replacement costs.

 

For fleet vehicles, police cruisers and performance cars, Frozen Rotors® offer confidence, safety and savings. Our long-lasting, wear-resistant brake rotors are the cost-effective solution for better, safer braking.

 

We are about to enter our third year using Frozen Rotors® on our entire fleet of Police Training Vehicles without replacing any rotors due to wear or warpage. Our training vehicles are used in extreme situations that normally destroy the stock rotors between 500 and 1500 miles. – Bill Ruhr Interim Director, MN Highway Safety Center

 

I have over 45,000 miles on my Frozen Rotors® and they are still way within factory specs.The set that came on the car were shot after 21,000 miles. – Paul Nogaki, CA

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Eh, drilled rotors wear pads faster, crack easier, and warp sooner.  They do stop faster, but for longevity and performance I'd go slotted.  (Not to mention all of the mud and rocks that will be flowing through those offroad)

I tend to disagree.. at least in the case of the NWOR rotors shown. I do not personally have them but I do know someone who had major issues with rotors warping after a built 351 and 38in tire swap.

 

He installed the aftermarket rotors and had far fewer problems (now on his second set in about 8yrs, but has not driven the truck in over a year now). Brake pad longevity did indeed increase over the stock rotors.

 

I have personally seen the results... I helped replace rotors on more than one occasion on this truck ;)

 

I cannot speak for drilled rotors in general, but these rotors do have a rep for being of quality design and construction. The are also considered a worthy upgrade within the Toyota truck offroad segment.

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Some good stuff here.

 

So how about frozen rotors? Only $118.40 US plus shipping per for 02 Pathy.

 

Check out the new issue of Four Wheeler for more on cryo treated parts like rotors and gears.

 

It's a good read, I'd post it if I had a scanner handy. They basically say that improvement in durability is doubled, the increase in strength is 30-50%...

 

All the trophy truck teams are doing it. :D

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Trancebear  Posted on Apr 9 2007, 06:48 PM

  Something else to spend money on. I have had my Pathy 3 weeks and the list just keeps growing. I just wish there was a rear disc conversion kit available like on my Tahoe.

Was it AC or Summit???? I remember it was $$$$

 

Nothing wrong with finding a donor Pathy with with rear disc's and the same gearing....

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If the mounts for the axle are the same then it would be about as easy as it can get.

 

Unbolt the original and bolt the replacement in. (driveshaft, brake lines and sus linkage)

 

Replace MC with a four wheel disk unit, bleed brakes and go.

 

*simplified, but you get the idea

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Check out the new issue of Four Wheeler for more on cryo treated parts like rotors and gears.

 

It's a good read, I'd post it if I had a scanner handy. They basically say that improvement in durability is doubled, the increase in strength is 30-50%...

 

All the trophy truck teams are doing it. :D

I have asked for an actual quote, will see what the cost will be then, with shipping.

 

If these do not work out, looks like I will go with the NAPA Premium rotors :rolleyes:

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If the mounts for the axle are the same then it would be about as easy as it can get.

 

Unbolt the original and bolt the replacement in. (driveshaft, brake lines and sus linkage)

 

Replace MC with a four wheel disk unit, bleed brakes and go.

 

*simplified, but you get the idea

Maybe if I had an old beater 4x4 I would be up to modding this and that but when you have a 2003 with only 50k miles you tend to want a professional kit that has a warranty. I am still doing research to see if the big names have the kit. Also no 2003 models including the QX4 came with rear disc brakes according to my Chilton's guide.

Edited by Trancebear
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Maybe if I had an old beater 4x4 I would be up to modding this and that but since I have a 2003 with only 50k miles I tend to want a professional kit that has a warranty.

I edited your reply in my quote... because people mod even brand new trucks. It's not based on the age of the truck, it's based on the owner of the truck ;)

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I edited your reply in my quote... because people mod even brand new trucks.  It's not based on the age of the truck, it's based on the owner of the truck ;)

I will clarify my point. People, including myself mod newer Pathy's, but to mod it in the way that was recommended by you, I don't think many people here who have newer Pathy's would do that. I have read 1,000's of posts here and I have not seen too many. That was my point. I think the year of the Pathy and the paticular mod has everything to do with what the owner will or won't do, it is just silly to think otherwise. The mod that you mentioned is a good inexpensive way of doing it to maybe an older Pathy that had rear disc available from the factory.

 

P.S. sorry to hijack this thread :)

Edited by Trancebear
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.... Also no 2003 models including the QX4 came with rear disc brakes according to my Chilton's guide.

I do not think ANY R50's came with 4 wheel discs, Nissan or Infinti versions (at least those sold in NA).

 

I hijack threads all the time, no problem if it is useful info for others :aok:

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I will clarify my point. People, including myself mod newer Pathy's, but to mod it in the way that was recommended by you, I don't think many people here who have newer Pathy's would do that.

I do understand your resistance to perform major mods on your truck, all I am saying is that I have seen newer... even newer than yours ..trucks/SUV's mod'ed way more than what we are talking about here.

 

Again, IMO it is the owner of the truck that makes the difference, not the truck.

 

A SAS is a far bigger mod than simply swapping rear axles for another "bolt in" unit, and yet there are plenty of newer SAS'ed trucks/SUV's out there.

 

It seems to me that you are saying swapping a rear axle (IF one was available with disks) is a major mod. If the axle is bolt in it's not that big of a mod, a bit of work yes, but not a "major" mod im my book. All we are talking about here is one method of a brake conversion, not a major axle/housing upgrade.

 

However, since it seems that there were no rear disks available on R50s, this hijacking is pointless :beer:

 

*Seems odd that Nissan did not offer rear disks on second gen Pathy's when they did on the first gen... wonder why :shrug:

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They didn't offer discs on first gen 00-04 Xterra's either. I agree that it's strange to offer them in earlier vehicles, and not the replacements for them. :shrug:

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Ahhhh, nice discussion and proof of Einstein's theories of relativity! What I find trivial and easy to do IS feared and considered crazy by 99% of vehicle owners.

 

OK, maybe that's not what Einstein meant, but the fact remains: what is trivial and what is scary is VERY relative based on the experience and confidence of the person considering it.

 

For me, with regards to a disk brake swap, I would rather swap in a component designed by the Nissan engineers for a Pathfinder and proven to be functional than to use a kit designed by some aftermarket company with effectively unknown design, engineering, material selection, or manufacturing skills. I can look at NHTSA vehicle recall info to see if there is any history or design flaws. I can only wish about reliability of aftermarket - or do my own analysis.

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Back on topic :P

 

Quick update:

 

When I bought the truck it had an inspection done and the following work was completed prior to the deal going through (@ 60,000 km, now has 120,000 km):

 

New pads

Resurface front rotors

Resurface rear drums

 

 

So unless the original owner replaced the rotors prior to 60,000 km, the ones on it are original. So I feel much better in going with the NAPA rotors if it comes to that.

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Got my frozen rotor price:

 

$118.40 per rotor plus my choice of shipping costs (note the cost of the rotors has gone up to $138.35 but they are willing to honor the price they quoted me for a day or two):

 

Postage will be $127 for 3-5 day

" " " $ 70 " 4-10 day

" " " $ 42 " 4-6 weeks

 

So, with "normal" shipping, they work out to $308 US plus whatever Canada Customs will charge me, plus the exchange rate. My guess they will end up around $400 CDN at my door.

 

Or the NAPA rotors for $280 CDN plus taxes and they will be here next day.

 

So NAPA it will be.

 

Stupid border stuff :furious:

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