barthel Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Before anyone asks, I've read about every post here regarding t-bar lifts and re-indexing. For some reason, it just doesn't seem to gel. I was under my truck today (for an unrelated issue) and saw the torsion bar adjusters. I started studying them as I'm going to crank them to get the lift I need out of the front end. The first thing I noticed is that the passenger side adjuster was below the crossbar, and well lower than the drivers side (which may exlpain why my truck dipped to the right). I loosened the adjuster nut and cranked the adjuster in a bit, so that it was closer to where the driver side was. Lo and behold, my truck no longer leans to the right. That got me to thinking about setting up the lift. It doesn't seem to me like they could be cranked in too much farther, so i'd think that would mean they need to be re-indexed first. If i read the posts properly, I have to seperate the t-bar from the adjuster and move it inboard of the truck. Once i get them set, i can crank away. Now, that leads me to 2 questions. 1: When I back the bar off the adjuster, it will come out of the socket on the LCA as well, right? So, I'm actually moving splines on both ends. 2: Once I get the t-bar off the adjuster, should i balance the adjusters so that they're in the same general place? i would think that if I put them just under the crossbar, when I crank them to get the lift they would go above it and I wouldn't have to worry about them hanging down. Soory to be so Dee Dee Dee, but I don't want to start messing with them 'till i feel like I know what I'm doing. Please be gentle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 1) There should be a clip that holds the T-bar in place. Pull it back, rotate it a couple of splines, and put it back in....then crank. You may be able to slide the adjuster back far enough to be able to move it a couple of splines without having to slide the bar itself back. 2) Yes, put the adjusters in relatively the same place, and then crank....keep them even, as they should, barring any issues with your t-bars, give you the same amount of lift, for the same amount of cranking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Simon, The clip that you mentioned, Is it covered with the triangular plate on the A arm end( front crossmember)? I have not explored my tbars yet but I will be this coming spring break. Im guessing that the clip youre refering to is what prevents that tbar from going forward or back, I seen a tbar laying around at the jy and looked at it for a bit and someone mustve pulled the clip off of it already coz the plate just slides right out of the bar being the plate already unbolted from the front crossmember. Theres a groove just below the spline Im thinking thats where the clip is supposed to be. :confused: Bart could you maybe take pics on your tbar project :type: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barthel Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 I'd be glad to, just want to make sure I'm doing it right first. But I will absolutely take pics and post them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Thanks man Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 There's a clip behind the adjuster, that, when removed, should allow you to slide the adjuster back to move it a couple of splines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Yep. When I reindexed mine I didn't pull the bars out of the LCA anchors, I just WD-40'ed the piss out of the adjusters and banged 'em off after match-marking the anchor to the t-bar so you know where you were and where you need to be. That's an important thing, write that down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barthel Posted March 27, 2007 Author Share Posted March 27, 2007 So I should move the adjuster, and not especially the bar itself? My thought so far (and lord knows I could be wrong) is to leave the t-bars in the LCA's, get the adjusters off the t-bars, set the adjusters so that they're about even, then reconnect them and crank the piss out of them. Does that sound even close to right? The other problem I have, is that I'm probably going to have to take the t-bar out of the LCA anchor when I do the lower bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 (edited) Ok i think I got it figured out. 88's way of doing it seems to be much safer. Green arrow is the adjuster right? I think its a grooved sleeve When the adjuster bolt is completely removed the sleeve should be able to slide back (where the red arrow is pointing) thus exposing the spline then you can now move that adjustern sleeve and not the tbar itself.This means droping down the adjuster arm by how many splines you think you need. Hope I got this figured out correctly. Another question is whats the knob or like a dialer at the end of the adjuster? Sorry to do a little bit of editing on your pic 88.This is the only pic I could find Edited March 27, 2007 by SuperSon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kn0xville Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 (edited) i think your making this harder than it really is. I havent done it YET so im not to sure.. I will be within a few days tho. heres the instructions i got.. -lift front end off ground -de-crank (yes as in lower) your tbars alll the way till there is no tension on them -follow your tbars to the front of the truck were they meet the LCA. -remove the 3 nuts holding the tbar bracketry to the LCA. -pull the braket back and turn a few splines (drivers side turn counter clock wise. passanger clockwise). -reinstall 3 nuts -crank your tbars till you have the amount of lift you want. Edited March 27, 2007 by Kn0xville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfisch1191 Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 Ok i think I got it figured out. 88's way of doing it seems to be much safer. Green arrow is the adjuster right? I think its a grooved sleeve When the adjuster bolt is completely removed the sleeve should be able to slide back (where the red arrow is pointing) thus exposing the spline then you can now move that adjustern sleeve and not the tbar itself.This means droping down the adjuster arm by how many splines you think you need. Hope I got this figured out correctly. Another question is whats the knob or like a dialer at the end of the adjuster? Sorry to do a little bit of editing on your pic 88.This is the only pic I could find so if i got this right the bolt that the green arrow is pointing toward is the one you turn to crank the t-bars right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted September 23, 2007 Share Posted September 23, 2007 theres a bolt on either side its actually the bolt head on the opposite end of the green arrow on the right side but yes you are correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfisch1191 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 cool just wanted to make sure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLouisGod Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 I need to do this: I was under my truck today (for an unrelated issue) and saw the torsion bar adjusters. I started studying them as I'm going to crank them to get the lift I need out of the front end. The first thing I noticed is that the passenger side adjuster was below the crossbar, and well lower than the drivers side (which may exlpain why my truck dipped to the right). I loosened the adjuster nut and cranked the adjuster in a bit, so that it was closer to where the driver side was. Lo and behold, my truck no longer leans to the right. Does it help to raise the front end on the crossmember or can I do it with the wheels on the ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 You can do it either way, but it's much easier to crank the t-bars with no load on them. So having the truck up on jackstands is a good idea. I've left it down on the tires for smaller adjustments (leveling), but for the lift itself, definitely have the front end of the truck in the air, unless you want a good workout! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLouisGod Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 I just did this and tightened the 19mm bolt ( i think its 19) several cranks and leveled the right side on the front end. i looked around but is there some way to lock it in? or can i just turn this bolt when i need to? it was really loose to, i did it with a socket and no breaker bar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 You should see a couple of nuts on the top of the bolt (above the cross member) those are used to lock the adjusting bolt in place. if they are not there then you should probably get a couple replacements for it as leaving it loose like it was "could" allow the bolt to back off some. Which would result in the suspension dropping some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLouisGod Posted September 27, 2007 Share Posted September 27, 2007 Sweet! thanks for the photo. Ill be sure to lock them down asap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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