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Parts

Precise1

By Precise1,
in The Garage

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Precise1 NPORA Old-Timer

Precise1

Posted
Posted

Plain and simple. Plastic (don't ask what kind, I haven't decided which yet) rear coil spring risers for the WD21. I'm thinking 1 and 2" at this point. Rear sag, but ok with the ride? Add a spacer. Need a bit more lift? Add a spacer.

What I have in mind is something machined that is formed to the lower spring mount and machined to hold and clock the spring on top. I'd add some angled holes so you could run large zip ties through it to hold the spring in place. Not too hard to do, but fairly useful for a lot of people.

 

I know that the spring diameters run from .51-.59" so maybe I can get away with only 1 diameter groove, but what are the ID/OD of the springs? If anyone removes their springs, please measure this for me along with the coil diameter and bottom step height.

Please, no eyeballing with a tape measure, caliper measurement only. You can get calipers for $20 and they will be useful for a lifetime...

I'll probably have to pull my springs to get the lower perch dimensions and can measure them then, but I prefer to have more than 1 data point. Help is appreciated and please chime in if interested.

 

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sammyb33 NPORA Old-Timer

sammyb33

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Posted (edited)

i dont know if i like the idea of zip ties holding my springs in....

 

 

oh and i will get some readings for you on saturday, i have my stock coils sittin in the garage...

Edited by sammyb33
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Precise1
NPORA Old-Timer

Precise1

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Thank you very much.

 

BTW, your springs are held in by compression and the seats alone. The risers would match the seats and the zip ties would just be additional (secondary) securement in case of extreme flex. There are no negatives to having it set up like that, as far as I know.

 

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govols74n NPORA Old-Timer

govols74n

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I cant find the pic, but I just saw one the other day and it was on the top kind of shaped like a road cone....(pointing down, but didn't go all the way into a point. It was around 5 inches long (on an extreme flex set up) so ours would only have to be maybe 3 inches? :shrug: but hopefully you get what I am describing....the cone part that goes down between the spring-holds the spring in its self and the base is wider where it mounts. :idea:

Edited by govols74n
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mws NPORA Old-Timer

mws

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An inverted top hat!

 

That was my original plan to assure there was absolutely no way the coil could come out. It evolved into an easier to machine idea of a ring on the spring perch, and then a hockey puck extension on top of the existing center post. Of course, that requires drilling and tapping the top of said post. Easy for me, but maybe not for average normal joe.

 

Then again, it may be absolutely unnecessary with some (most? all?) spring and shock combos.... Just me being super thorough.

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RedPath88 NPORA Old-Timer

RedPath88

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The idea of large tie wraps would work just fine. Sammy, I would not worry about it as tie wraps are a lot stronger than people think.

 

*not talking about the dime store/harbor freight verity... those are for small wires only

 

"Top hat" style design was along my thinking as well :aok:

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Precise1
NPORA Old-Timer

Precise1

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the cone part that goes down between the spring-holds the spring in its self and the base is wider where it mounts

 

Yep, I get it AND like it! :aok: Makes perfect sense, but for 95% of the Pathys, I think a mild taper of no more than 30 degrees included angle and 2-3 inches taller than the spring seat would work fine.

 

I really do like the zip tie idea though, as Red pointed out the industrial versions are seriously strong!! No reason that it can't be combined though. ;) I'm all for overkill with this, because popping out a spring on the trail would be a serious drag and I doubt many people keep spring compressors in their kit.

 

a ring on the spring perch, and then a hockey puck extension on top of the existing center post. Of course, that requires drilling and tapping the top of said post.

 

I see where you are going, but depending on the material (plastic?) and the size/pitch of the bolt, I suspect a serious lateral shift of the spring would just tear the threads out... :shrug:

 

Yes, I'll ask trailboss what he did. No need to start from scratch... ;)

 

Thanks for the valuable input people, this is how good designs are achieved!! :beer:

 

Oh, I was thinking of the spacer on the bottom. Is there any advantage to have it on top? :shrug:

 

 

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Precise1
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Precise1

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Makes sense. I'm working on a solid model prototype now but I'm having technical difficulties. This CAD is 2 years older than what I use at work and a bit different. Ahh, well, learning curve... again... :wacko:

 

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