Simon Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 NEVER use an impact gun to tighten bolts!!!! Put the truck in gear, and put the e-brake on. It'll stop it from turning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 screw driver in the teeth of the flywheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syazoo Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 (edited) thanks again guyz ... this is hillarious ... a person litterally gets real time support on this forum .. haha ... its faster than being on hold with my internet provider .... Edited February 8, 2007 by syazoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishpeck Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 thanks again guyz ... this is hillarious ... a person litterally gets real time support on this forum .. haha ... its faster than being on hold with my internet provider .... It's true. This forum is the best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syazoo Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 Well it seems that putting the vehicle in gear doesnt work in an auto to prevent crank from turning. I dont think I could have put a screwdriver in the flywheel unless I pulled the starter at least a bit. The belt trick worked though. I am about to put the shrowd in ... and suddenly cant think of a good reason to put it in. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 (edited) A torque wrench... sniff sniff.... I think I'll print that picture.... You make an old engineer so proud! Somebody cares as much as we do! You mean the fan shroud? If you are still going to be using the stock mechanical fan, you absolutely want it in there. Shrouds will more than double the amount of air a fan will pull through the core. Without the shroud, the fan will pull air from the area of least resistance - the sides - rather than through the fins. Edited February 9, 2007 by mws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syazoo Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 K well this totally sux ... is there a way to fix this without replacing it? maybe a bat ... hammer.... I sold my guns when I moved outta the usa ... so thats not an option ..... just when I was adding the coolant .... I did start it up and it runs perfectly ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 Right on syazoo You got it all together now. Your pics sure did illustrates everything clearly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syazoo Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 ya but see that hole in the radiator? siggghhhhh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 ^^^ let me guess... the belt trick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 ya but see that hole in the radiator? siggghhhhh Yeah I saw that just dont wanna mention it and worsen the pain ..hahaha You could probably take it to a rad shop and see if they can solder it but if your rad shop in there is just like here they would basically force you to buy a new one coz they know you dont have any other option but replace it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syazoo Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 naaaa the belt trick was smooth and easy ... the punct is right in line with the end of the fan .... no idea what I did ... this was a total surprise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 hmm..that mustve been a pretty hard hit for it to leak like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syazoo Posted February 9, 2007 Author Share Posted February 9, 2007 (edited) really I have no idea what happened ... but that aside .... anyone ever soldered a rad? I think my choices at this point are: -Junk Yard (do we know what years will work?) -Radiator shop -Solder -Bars Leak Bars leak would be great if that stuff really works .... I am not afraid of soldering ... just ask my 80 year old house with new plumbing. Would I use the same solder as I use on my copper pipes? I have safe flow silver lead free solder for my pipes. BTW... this has been full of lessons ... I suppose in this situation, I think that not taking the rad our is totally fine ... still tons of working room .... but I should have leaned something up against it for protection ... even thick cardboard would likely be just fine. Or take it out ;P Edited February 9, 2007 by syazoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 i said the trick because it looks like it's in the area and the shape of vice grips. regardless. you can solder it unless the fins are aluminum. it can be pretty tough. it's been years since i have done that. rad shop maybe able to do it. one that's around here would probably do it for a $20 but most probably won't want to do it. not sure of your year zoo, but a rad from from around the same time should be fine. measure twice. no bars leak. you don't want that stuff plugging up the heat exchanger in the dash. just don't do it. btw. pepper works about the same and it's way cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted February 9, 2007 Share Posted February 9, 2007 I kinda figured you didnt pull the rad out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syazoo Posted February 14, 2007 Author Share Posted February 14, 2007 ok ... so it's all back together and running ... the rad was repaired here in town by a place called prairie radiator ... they used an epoxy that they claim to have great results with ... tested and works great .... there is a little different sound under the hood ..... which sounds like a belt sort of "whirring" .... tough to find the right word ... I hope that I tensioned the tbelt correctly, I did follow the instructions here to a t ... anyone think I ought to be concerned? .. anyways ... thanks everyone for all the help ... I wouldn't have attempted this at all if I had not have found this forum in a google search .... nor would I have proceeded if I hadn't read the how to's .... I also have to say that I have a new enthusiasm about keeping my old 95 pathfinder ... this is my third 95 pathfinder .. and I was about to trade it in and buy something different when I found I had a waterpump leak .... thanks again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Oh CRAP. That's something you don't want to hear. If it whirrs or sounds kinda like a gear drive on a V8 or a supercharger, it means the t-belt is too tight. I did that one time. Had to tear everything off and re-tension it. I took it in to a Nissan dealership before taking everything back off and asked a head tech to listen to it. He concurred, it was too tight and the cam sprockets *can* break off the end of the cams if it's too tight. Easy way to check tension on the belt: with the timing cover off, grab the belt between the two cam sprockets. You should be able to twist the belt 90 degrees by hand. No more, no less. The Nissan head tech gave me that tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syazoo Posted February 14, 2007 Author Share Posted February 14, 2007 grab the belt between the two cam sprockets. You should be able to twist the belt 90 degrees by hand. No more, no less. Exactly what I did. I did my final tension after spinning two full revolutions of the crank as was suggested in the forums. it whirrs or sounds kinda like a gear drive on a V8 or a supercharger exactly what it sounds like. When I did the "twist test" I set it so that it was hard to twist to the 90 position. Ok, well I suppose I have no choice but to tear this apart. I wonder how much too tight I have this. I really am certain I was ablt to turn it 90 degrees. WHat do you think 88? ... just back the tension of a tiny bit? I know that the article about tensioning said the adjuster should end up at about 5 o'clock. Mine felt right at about 3:30 to 4 o'clock. how bad can it be to have it a bit loose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 (edited) Easy way to check tension on the belt: with the timing cover off, grab the belt between the two cam sprockets. You should be able to twist the belt 90 degrees by hand. No more, no less. The Nissan head tech gave me that tip. Let me see if my thought on doing this is correct , By twisting the belt 90 deg Im assuming that it can be done either by twisting it towards the front of the truck or the back so when you twist it 90 degrees the teeth on the belt would be facing either the back or the front of the truck?? When tightening the tensioner is it possible that it might get tighter or looser as you tighten the bolt without holding that allen wrench while you tighten? Edited February 14, 2007 by SuperSon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syazoo Posted February 15, 2007 Author Share Posted February 15, 2007 (edited) Ok, I think I am adding my last report on this experience. So, my belt was too tight ... it sort of "sang" ... so today ... 4 hours total .... in and out ... and everything sounds perfect and the truck runs perfectly. In regards to the tension... I ended up reading the downloadable manual ... and it indicated that between the cam sprockets when finalizing tension, that there should be about 13 to 15 mm of play with 22 lbs pres. Well damn!!! thats 3/5 of an inch in one direction ... total 1.2 inches total play up and down. That is way more tolerance of play than I pictured being allowable. I also called the local nissan dealer, spoke to a tech. He said he pretty much just takes the slack out of the belt with the tensioner. I tried his technique and the allen adjuster ended up exactly at 5 o'clock and measuring the play, it was pretty much bang on. I also tried the twist test to 90 degrees as suggested in this forum and it seems just right as well. Maybe that bit of info will be useful to someone. Things that saved me time this time through. Figuring out that the shroud is a two piece unit ... sheesh ... this even changed the order that I took things out and installed things ... ie: the fan was in and tightened before the shrowd ... the belt with vice grips seems to be awefully safe and effective to me ... I cant seee a downside... I used this system this time to both remove and instal the crank bolt. No problem at all.... so thats it .... thanks again all ... Scott Edited February 15, 2007 by syazoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gxl90rx7 Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 thats how i did it, i pushed on a scale to feel what 22 lbs felt like, then pushed the same amount down on the belt, and adjusted the tension for 15mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted February 15, 2007 Share Posted February 15, 2007 Super! Thanks for taking the time to post the updates. Others WILL find it helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted February 16, 2007 Share Posted February 16, 2007 Excellent. Theres enough pics on this that hopefull it can be added on the how-to's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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