syazoo

1. My goal is to replace my front rotors because there is a wobble in the steering when braking. I am assuming it is warped front rotors. I have read a couple post's about changing the front axles to try to find information but I am stuck. In my attached picture, I am really wondering what to remove next. I labled A what looks like a screw holding a retainer in. B is what look to me like a retaining or pressure bolt agains the bearing. Can anyone advise what I do next in this removal. I am pretty sure it is easy to see where I am at. 2. There is another dicovered issue. Both boots are torn. Is it correct that I will need to remove the front axles to replace? 3. The spline sticking out in my picture seems to have alot of play. Is this normal? http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x307/syazoo/frontHub.jpg hmmm wonder why I cannot upload an attachment ...

The NTK unit I bought at Bumper to Bumper was a perfect replacement part. It was a 30 min installation. Engine light is out and the truck is running smother than she has in a long time. Just in case reading this may save anyone any time. The O2 Sensor is in the exhaust mounted from the inside and pointing up almost directly in line with the bottom front of the drivers door. The routing of the wire in my 95 is up and over top of the tranny feeding to the passenger side of the engine housing. It ends up in a little tree of connectors just behind the battery. Easy location is to look for a connector with two white and one black wires. To feed the new connector from the mounting point of the O2 sensor: 1. I removed the old sensor (after letting penetrating oil soak for 20 mins) 2. Installed new sensor 3. Taped connector of new sensor to old O2 Unit 4. From passenger side engine housing, slowly pulled the old wire up which of course pulled the new connector along with it. Thanks to those that helped me identify the problem part.

Yes, I ended up finding it last night. It is located exactly where you said. It was troublesome trying to follow the path of the wire so I just started looking for connectors that looked like the one on the new unit then checking to see if it had two white and one black. If it is of interest to Canadians, the NTK unit I bought at Bumper to Bumper is a prefect match. Very nice part and was only $66. Engine light is out and it is running very smoothly.

I am having trouble finding where my O2 Sensor is connected. I am refering to the plug, not the sensor position in the exhaust. Anyone have a good description or know of a post that has a picture of where the connector is?

Thank you. I picked up a sensor for 72 cnd (thats 19 USD) tax paid at bumper to bumper. I will install it and report how the old girl reacts.

Can anyone verify that the error code 33 is the O2 Sensor? I can't find anything on ebay at the moment. Does anyone know a good canadian source to order from? Or a good US source? Thanks.

Thanks for pointing me to that how to thread. I have read the error codes. there is only one, it is 33. If I understand the how to thread correctly then this means I am getting an O2 sensor error. Can anyone verify? Does this seem consistent with my problem?

Maybe it's just this cold, but after 45 mins of searching, I haven't found anything that says: " on a 95 Pathy do this to check codes". I think that today I will put my arms around this truck and do some maintainance. I will check connections, clean parts and maybe pick up an O2 sensor at the lodal wrecking yard. I know they have a low milage 88 that I can get parts from. I would very much like to read codes.

Hey guys. My 95 pathy is acting up a bit. Recently the truck puffs out some black smoke when I start it in the morning. A couple times lately it acts like it wants to stall ( sort of a missing/sputtering) when I come to a stop. It is also getting horrible gas mileage. Any idea's on trouble shooting. The plugs are about 2 years old and the air filter is less than a year old and is clean. My check engine light has been on for a couple years. I do not have a code reader. Thanks.

Thanks for the info. I simply do not have the time to do the swap myself so I have spoken to a tranny shop about the R&R. The guy there is very skeptical about tranny's from wreckers. He suggests that I invest an hours shop labour testing the tranny with pressure guages to see if perhaps there is a more minor problem. He claims to have pathfinder experience and says that I could have a blown seal of some sort causing this problem. What do you guys think about this approach?

Thats a good point raised 88. I do need the speedo! Anyone know if they can be switched?

Ok, I am not sure if this is of any use, but here is a couple of pics with vehicle info, the first from my 95 and the second from a 92 in the wrecker yard.

Yes, I did check the ATF condition ... its more black than red ... and no I have not put in an aftermarket cooler on this pathfinder yet ... ( I did on my past two ) .... I do not want to get away from my original question, but I have a second one. I called the local wreckers and found a 92 pathfinder with 39,562 kms on it that has an auto tranny. How can I be sure if it will work in mine without worrying about the starter not fitting correctly etc. (had that prob once before). If I take my camera out and get pics of vehicle info would that help to identify if it is a good match? I would still like to find hope in a simple fluid / screen problem ... but only if it is truly a realistic fix possibility.

Hi Guys I have a 95 4x4 180,000 kms. Last week when putting in reverse it acted like the shifter just wasnt in the correct position. I moved the shifter and reverse engaged. Saturday morning on my way to the airport, I get in and it wouldnt engage in reverse at all. I missed the flight. So, I came here to investigate. It seems that ultimately that no reverse means a rebuild. There is talk of trying to clean the screen. What I have not found is anyone saying this fixed the problem for them. If there is a reasonable possiblility of the cleaning actually repairing the problem then hell yes I will do that. If there isnt a reasonable likelyhood, then I am going to go to plan B, a used unit. What do you guys think? Anyone in Canada have an AT for a 95 4x4 they are interested in selling?

hey guys I was replacing pads last night and found that the drivers rear caliper has a problem ... a broken pin. I searched these forums to answer my question and couldn't find an answer. I just want to verify before calling wreckers that 92 - 95 calipers are my options. BTW, I did read the topic about maintainance of these pins .. very cool. Thanks guys

I had the same issue with the belt I just installed. I determined direction because since my belt had solid lines spaced by the 40 and 43 cog count, then I could not make a mistake. 40 from RH to LH and 43 to crank. Only works one direction.

Ok, I think I am adding my last report on this experience. So, my belt was too tight ... it sort of "sang" ... so today ... 4 hours total .... in and out ... and everything sounds perfect and the truck runs perfectly. In regards to the tension... I ended up reading the downloadable manual ... and it indicated that between the cam sprockets when finalizing tension, that there should be about 13 to 15 mm of play with 22 lbs pres. Well damn!!! thats 3/5 of an inch in one direction ... total 1.2 inches total play up and down. That is way more tolerance of play than I pictured being allowable. I also called the local nissan dealer, spoke to a tech. He said he pretty much just takes the slack out of the belt with the tensioner. I tried his technique and the allen adjuster ended up exactly at 5 o'clock and measuring the play, it was pretty much bang on. I also tried the twist test to 90 degrees as suggested in this forum and it seems just right as well. Maybe that bit of info will be useful to someone. Things that saved me time this time through. Figuring out that the shroud is a two piece unit ... sheesh ... this even changed the order that I took things out and installed things ... ie: the fan was in and tightened before the shrowd ... the belt with vice grips seems to be awefully safe and effective to me ... I cant seee a downside... I used this system this time to both remove and instal the crank bolt. No problem at all.... so thats it .... thanks again all ... Scott

Exactly what I did. I did my final tension after spinning two full revolutions of the crank as was suggested in the forums. exactly what it sounds like. When I did the "twist test" I set it so that it was hard to twist to the 90 position. Ok, well I suppose I have no choice but to tear this apart. I wonder how much too tight I have this. I really am certain I was ablt to turn it 90 degrees. WHat do you think 88? ... just back the tension of a tiny bit? I know that the article about tensioning said the adjuster should end up at about 5 o'clock. Mine felt right at about 3:30 to 4 o'clock. how bad can it be to have it a bit loose?

ok ... so it's all back together and running ... the rad was repaired here in town by a place called prairie radiator ... they used an epoxy that they claim to have great results with ... tested and works great .... there is a little different sound under the hood ..... which sounds like a belt sort of "whirring" .... tough to find the right word ... I hope that I tensioned the tbelt correctly, I did follow the instructions here to a t ... anyone think I ought to be concerned? .. anyways ... thanks everyone for all the help ... I wouldn't have attempted this at all if I had not have found this forum in a google search .... nor would I have proceeded if I hadn't read the how to's .... I also have to say that I have a new enthusiasm about keeping my old 95 pathfinder ... this is my third 95 pathfinder .. and I was about to trade it in and buy something different when I found I had a waterpump leak .... thanks again....

really I have no idea what happened ... but that aside .... anyone ever soldered a rad? I think my choices at this point are: -Junk Yard (do we know what years will work?) -Radiator shop -Solder -Bars Leak Bars leak would be great if that stuff really works .... I am not afraid of soldering ... just ask my 80 year old house with new plumbing. Would I use the same solder as I use on my copper pipes? I have safe flow silver lead free solder for my pipes. BTW... this has been full of lessons ... I suppose in this situation, I think that not taking the rad our is totally fine ... still tons of working room .... but I should have leaned something up against it for protection ... even thick cardboard would likely be just fine. Or take it out ;P

naaaa the belt trick was smooth and easy ... the punct is right in line with the end of the fan .... no idea what I did ... this was a total surprise

ya but see that hole in the radiator? siggghhhhh

K well this totally sux ... is there a way to fix this without replacing it? maybe a bat ... hammer.... I sold my guns when I moved outta the usa ... so thats not an option ..... just when I was adding the coolant .... I did start it up and it runs perfectly ...

Well it seems that putting the vehicle in gear doesnt work in an auto to prevent crank from turning. I dont think I could have put a screwdriver in the flywheel unless I pulled the starter at least a bit. The belt trick worked though. I am about to put the shrowd in ... and suddenly cant think of a good reason to put it in. What do you think?

thanks again guyz ... this is hillarious ... a person litterally gets real time support on this forum .. haha ... its faster than being on hold with my internet provider ....