syazoo

Any tip on holding torquing the crankshaft bolt to 98 lbs? .. I mean to keep it from turning the engine ... I havent got an impact at the house.

Thanks boyz. I will start the assembly tonight ... maybe even finish. I am so sick of driving the spare car ... 92 buick ... land yaht .... What I learned doing this: I am sure that I made this way more difficult than need be. I resolved that perhaps I should not count on the positioning being correct as it was when I marked the sprockets prior to taking belt off originally. The reason I did not trust that positioning is because the lines on the belt did not line up with the marks on the sprockets with cyl 1 at TDC (the teeth were more than 40 between L and R cam sprockets from dimple to dimple). People here emphasized this being the most important issue. I should have been able to make this decision within about 5 minutes of inspection. When I do this again, I will go to TDC, check belt alignment and if it isn't correct I will just go straight to the aligning the two cam sprockets and verify teeth between marks being accurate. I am betting I could have this all completed and a belt replaced in less than 30 mins in the future. I will let ya know if it explodes or not

The R sprocket

the L sproket and rotor

I dont recall anyone mentioning that these had to be turned in sync. The emphasis has been on number of teeth between marks and dimples aligning. I lined up the cam sprockets (I turned the L about 3/4 turn clockwise and R about 1/4 turn counter clockwise This seamed reasonable to me since the purpose of the dimples is to TDC the cams right?) I made sure that the L was pointing at wire 1 because that is where it should be pointing when cyl 1 is at TDC on comp stroke. I turned the crank ... I think it was 2 turns to get to what I believe to be the comp stroke. ( I am certain it is TDC on Cyl1 ) This is the spot where I was asking previously if the following logic is reasonable. This is the spot where all lines line up on the belt. I know the belt is positioned correctly by counting the 40 and 43 distances. The dimple on the crank ended up at about 5 oclock. I dont know if that is consistent when it would be at TDC at cyl1 comp stroke. I will attach some pics that may or may not help to verify all is well b4 I put it all together. Since I took these pics with the belt on, I have rotated all three sprockets together and there is nothing that feels like anything is hitting anything.

I dont understand what you are saying M .... I did not force anything when turning the sprockets .. there was an anticipated resistance I suppose .. but did not force .... are you saying something else? In my last post I meant to just review that I had followed suggestions and wanted my work double checked so that I am confident that I am not 180 degrees out on my timing ..... do you think I mis understood that it is fine to turn the cam sprockets to align them?

ok... I think this is it haha if I actually have this now, I feel like a total drama .. well not queen thats for sure ... because this method was so easy and fast its nuts ,,, -I counted teeth on the belt to find the marks with 40 and 43 between them. This way I knew what way the belt goes on. -I lined up the dimple marks on the camshaft sprockets. The L moves the distributor of course, so I positioned it so dimples lined up and rotor is pointing at 1 wire. I turned the crankshaft until cyl 1 was at TDC. **** here is the only thing I am uncertain of at this point** I believe it is at TDC on comp stroke because when I put the belt on, all the marks on the belt line up with marks on sprockets, they shouldn't if it is not on comp stroke. Is this correct? If so, I am just putting it all back together now ....

dont feel that way. ya this is tricky, only because I made an error not lining things up prior to removing the belt. My bad. I didnt anticipate things moving or not being correctly aligned. tools ... 10, 12, 14, 15 and I think 17 mm ... all you need. specialty ... the 27 mm for crank I had from working on my race bikes ... the harmonic puller was 24 bucks ... and I am having a great time cuz the help here makes things very easy ... ya time intensive ... but 5-700 for a shops efforts ... no way ... this is way more fun than entertaining the woman. I will align everything when I get home from work tonight.

Agreed. Start from scratch. I believe that the old belt jumped three teethand that is why the marks dont line up. I have located all of the punchmarks on the sprockets. I have not located the marks on the housing, but maybe I just need to clean a bit to see. Ok, do I understand you correctly: 1 Turn crank till rotor is pointing at #1 wire and piston is at TDC (pushing a dowel or whatever to top of stroke) 2 Line up dimples of cam sprockets to dimples on housing. This should force belt marks to line up with sprocket marks. Is cyl 1 Right hand side front? Thanks for the patience guys.

Ok, well that was going so well ... maybe it still is but I have a q before proceeding. There is 27 teeth difference between my two camshaft sprockets. The white lines in the aftermarket belt I bought do not line up. The marks are three teeth off. The belt markings are seperated by 30 teeth. So, did my belt previously jump three teeth? I know that the sprockets arein exactly the place as they were before removing the old belt. Wudda you think guys? If it was correct before removing the old belt should I just put it together? Or, do you agree that my suspicion of out of time is the case? Ok. I just went out and counted the number of teeth on the belt between left and right sprocket punchmarks. There is 40. This is what someone has said in this thread. given the other information in this post, what do you guys think.

Sadly, I do not see anything that looks remotely like marks on the inner timing cover. I also do not see a mark on teh crank sprocket. In that photo, I was not marking any punchmarks. I was marking the position of everything before I removed the belt with the thinking that if it went back together with the marks lining up again, how could I miss. The crank has not moved, so I am good there... and so I think I am going to give a shot at getting this new belt on and try to line up my white out marks by turning the sprockets. The L sprocket does have the punchmark on the outside at the moment, so I think that I will be able to line up the marks on the belt a bit with the cam sprockets by counting teeth.... I am not hopeful that I will be succesful, but I need to kill time waiting for someone to push me a bit farther in the right direction. Super, that mark you have3 pointed out in the pic is a yellow dot on a "washer" that spins freely on the shaft. I think I understand best the suggestions about aligning the marks on the sprockets. Sorry that I cannot see them, Simon do you ( or anyone) know where those marks on marks on the inner timing cover may be? and does that method insure the crank is in the right position?

Well an effort of taking pics and creating a how to is very generous. In my case, I did mark both camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft... alignment marks to the block on all three. The camshaft sprockets jumping when I took the timing belt off were a surprise to me. Point is that I ought to have a reference because of marking. It seems that a few of us would appreciate the TDC and sprocket alignment advice. The reason that I was confident enough to tear into this job is because of how to postings on this forum. I have been smiling through the entire job so far because it has been relaxin, easy and quite fun. I am pretty confident that someone will make sense of this so I will continue to smile through this project. I am only 160 in parts including buying a harmonic balancer puller. This is great.

ok ..... if you ever need any good advice about sportbike suspension, I am your guy ... but top dead center .. etc .. I need your help, anyone interested in talking on the phone??? I am happy to call anywhere in NA

surely just lining up three marks doesnt get me there.... or does it? If so, how do I know that I have all marks in correct position. All must be on outside area of rotation so that I am able to know that marks are lining up .

Ok I agree however there is quite a bit of tension going back to where they were when I marked them prior to removing the belt. Any sugestions? Is it fine to crank them back with say a wrench on the sprocket bolts? ( if I have two buddy's with me) or I wonder if they will get pulled back if I instal the new belt and add tension. BTW, the belt I bought is not OEM, and it has three marks on it. errrrm what for?

So, how about does anyone know how to bypass the DRL? I can't quite see how to "wire past it". Mine has been giving me grief for two years. I have worked on the copper connections on the switch. I am sure my prob is the DLR.

First off, this is the best forum I have seen of any type. Ok, business .. waterpump needs changing, so I have torn it all down .. and when I removed the timing belt tensioner, the camshaft sprockets moved ... The drivers side jumped about 3 cogs to clockwise (as you look at it from front) and the passenger jumped counter clockwise about the cogs. I have read posts on installation of the timing belt and don't quite get alignment techniques. I am uploading a pic to demonstrate. Now finally my question: Is one possible technique to align simply turning the camshaft sprockets one revolution until the marks that I made align again?