partpathfinder Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 (edited) I'm about to order Maxxis Buckshot mudders,what size should I get, and a calmini 3" sl. And I want to upgrade my front brakes and convert the back ones to disk. Any suggestions and where to get the parts? I have been having a hard time finding the brake parts so please help. :help: :help: Edited December 20, 2006 by partpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Someone will scream "SEARCH" And Ill ask.... How many miles on your Pathy and when was the Timing Belt last changed???? I spent about 2k on upgrades and blew my $30 belt after 20 miles..... Calmini... I like it, other dont, i would highly recomend having some Grease Zerks installed in the UCA's prior to install... Brakes.... The one thing I will still pay someone to do.... Converting the Rear to disk can be done.... I have been looking at just swapping the whole rear axel... Make sure you get the same gearing as you currently have.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 Someone will scream "SEARCH" And Ill ask.... How many miles on your Pathy and when was the Timing Belt last changed???? I spent about 2k on upgrades and blew my $30 belt after 20 miles..... Calmini... I like it, other dont, i would highly recomend having some Grease Zerks installed in the UCA's prior to install... Brakes.... The one thing I will still pay someone to do.... Converting the Rear to disk can be done.... I have been looking at just swapping the whole rear axel... Make sure you get the same gearing as you currently have.... the axle swap sound to me like really the easiest. don't forget to get the approp MC as they are different iirc. ok and i won't SCREAM search BUT the swap info can be found pretty easily by looking in the garage or one of the wd21 areas. bump it up if you have any questions that need an answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 hehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partpathfinder Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 Someone will scream "SEARCH" And Ill ask.... How many miles on your Pathy and when was the Timing Belt last changed???? I spent about 2k on upgrades and blew my $30 belt after 20 miles..... Calmini... I like it, other dont, i would highly recomend having some Grease Zerks installed in the UCA's prior to install... Brakes.... The one thing I will still pay someone to do.... Converting the Rear to disk can be done.... I have been looking at just swapping the whole rear axel... Make sure you get the same gearing as you currently have.... It has 109k on it dont know about the timing belt.I just got it a couple of months a go. So I am still finding all the hiden faults. A axle swap not a bad idea thought about swapping the front one with a solid axle to. But I not sure if I want to get in to that yet. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 As far as I know there are no front brake upgrades except putting on cross-drilled rotors and expensive pads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 i think you can get stainless lines to replace the rubber ones, but i'm not sure if any of the other brake lines between the caliper and the booster are made of rubber. It would be a waste of money if there are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 I don't believe so. I think the only rubber part is from the knuckle, to the caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partpathfinder Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 I might change the lines later they are in pretty good shape. What I want is bigger heavier disc for the front and just disc for the back.And does anyone know if Atlas makes an adapter to put a chevy trans in the pathfinder? Just a thought. :idea: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted December 20, 2006 Share Posted December 20, 2006 It has 109k on it dont know about the timing belt. IMO, based on the # of belts that have been eaten, that needs to be the 1st thing you do... Water Pump and T-Stat too..... Then I would try shopping around for a rear axel to swap, then the SL... once you have the SL in and it aligned, then you can play with Tires and Wheels, even adding in a LP center link.... And dont for get about some additional Skids....(dam I still need to get mine) Just my .02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partpathfinder Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 IMO, based on the # of belts that have been eaten, that needs to be the 1st thing you do... Water Pump and T-Stat too..... Then I would try shopping around for a rear axel to swap, then the SL... once you have the SL in and it aligned, then you can play with Tires and Wheels, even adding in a LP center link.... And dont for get about some additional Skids....(dam I still need to get mine) Just my .02 10-4, t-stat,water pump and timing belts. I will get them next friday . And how hard is it to change timing belts,I have a full shop at my dispoal I am a truck mechanic. and where or what kind of rear to use and look for? Thanks guys! :bow: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 It's not that bad, but be careful to get the tension right (you should be able to twist the belt 90 degrees between the cam sprockets if the tension is just right) and make SURE your timing marks line up. Special note: there will be NO timing mark on the crank gear when you get the harmonic balancer and timing cover off. Set the engine to TDC BEFORE REMOVING THE BELT. Mark the crank sprocket's position on the edge of the oil pump with a punch. Then have at it. The rear diff you need is a H233B from a Pathfinder. HB pickups also have that axle, but it's a leaf-sprung setup, you don't want to try to convert leafs to coils for no reason. Find the build tag under your hood on the passenger side near the firewall and find "Axle Code". It will say HG43 or HG46. That gives you the gear ratio, 4.375:1 or 4.625:1. Match that with a junkyard or donor axle and you should be golden. Pathfinders from 88-95 had the optional disc rear, most came on SE or LE models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partpathfinder Posted December 21, 2006 Author Share Posted December 21, 2006 It's not that bad, but be careful to get the tension right (you should be able to twist the belt 90 degrees between the cam sprockets if the tension is just right) and make SURE your timing marks line up. Special note: there will be NO timing mark on the crank gear when you get the harmonic balancer and timing cover off. Set the engine to TDC BEFORE REMOVING THE BELT. Mark the crank sprocket's position on the edge of the oil pump with a punch. Then have at it. The rear diff you need is a H233B from a Pathfinder. HB pickups also have that axle, but it's a leaf-sprung setup, you don't want to try to convert leafs to coils for no reason. Find the build tag under your hood on the passenger side near the firewall and find "Axle Code". It will say HG43 or HG46. That gives you the gear ratio, 4.375:1 or 4.625:1. Match that with a junkyard or donor axle and you should be golden. Pathfinders from 88-95 had the optional disc rear, most came on SE or LE models. Thanks. It helps when you have an idea on were to start. And I just found out that they had both. On a side note my wife and your girlfriend are friends on myspace. That is how I found out about this site. But thanks again. :type: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 I might change the lines later they are in pretty good shape. they may look great on the outside but it's the inside that counts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partpathfinder Posted December 21, 2006 Author Share Posted December 21, 2006 they may look great on the outside but it's the inside that counts. I found D.O.T. steel braided break lines at the local parts store. I will probably go with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 Really? Where at? How much do they run? I was anticipating going to a hydraulics shop and having custom ones made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted December 21, 2006 Share Posted December 21, 2006 Oh, aaron aaron aaron.... Before paying someone else to build them, check with your buddies! I have custom built (from scratch - putting ends on raw hose) several sets for motorcycles, and have a local speed shop that sells all kinds of ends to go onto modular hoses... Costs a little more, but the modularity is nice - if you want to change the length, you just get a new hose, but re-use the ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroad95pathy Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 AC sells a set of stainless lines for stock or lifted pathfinders $85-$87.50, includes the the 2 front lines and rear center line. AC also has cross-drilled rotors for $195 or Auto Parts Warehouse has slotted for $120, dimpled & slotted for $150. As far as the 3" Calmini SL, I strongly caution you on that one! From my own experience, $350 is a lot of jack to drop on something that you will have problems with and put you in a pertpetual maintaince plan with those UCAs. The structural design of the UCAs are super heavy duty, I ran a FEA on them a good while back, they are overkill as far as thats concerned, but it ends there! The plastic bushings are the wrong material choice, many a people have had problems with these, squeaks, noise, wear, etc. The bushing collars, plastic bushings, the inner bushing races, are all hosed up design wise. I took mine and had the bushings removed from the arm frames, and redesigned new bushing collars, bushings, and inner races. In order to do this rework in the easiest and simpliest fashion, a cnc bridgeport and lathe comes in real handy. Grease zerks alone with not solve the problems with this kit! All it will do for you at best will add a month or two to your maintaince period. The BJs they give you with the kit are crap, I replaced mine with NAPA gold series which are made by Moog. I am in the finishing process with mine, I will be putting together a complete write-up on the whats, hows and whys. I would recomend RC's UCAs for a good dependable design and easy install. In either case, if your UCA spindle shafts are corroded really bad, I would replace those right away, repack with Neo Synthetic grease, its nasty to work with but repells water and dirt like nothing else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partpathfinder Posted December 25, 2006 Author Share Posted December 25, 2006 AC sells a set of stainless lines for stock or lifted pathfinders $85-$87.50, includes the the 2 front lines and rear center line. AC also has cross-drilled rotors for $195 or Auto Parts Warehouse has slotted for $120, dimpled & slotted for $150. As far as the 3" Calmini SL, I strongly caution you on that one! From my own experience, $350 is a lot of jack to drop on something that you will have problems with and put you in a pertpetual maintaince plan with those UCAs. The structural design of the UCAs are super heavy duty, I ran a FEA on them a good while back, they are overkill as far as thats concerned, but it ends there! The plastic bushings are the wrong material choice, many a people have had problems with these, squeaks, noise, wear, etc. The bushing collars, plastic bushings, the inner bushing races, are all hosed up design wise. I took mine and had the bushings removed from the arm frames, and redesigned new bushing collars, bushings, and inner races. In order to do this rework in the easiest and simpliest fashion, a cnc bridgeport and lathe comes in real handy. Grease zerks alone with not solve the problems with this kit! All it will do for you at best will add a month or two to your maintaince period. The BJs they give you with the kit are crap, I replaced mine with NAPA gold series which are made by Moog. I am in the finishing process with mine, I will be putting together a complete write-up on the whats, hows and whys. I would recomend RC's UCAs for a good dependable design and easy install. In either case, if your UCA spindle shafts are corroded really bad, I would replace those right away, repack with Neo Synthetic grease, its nasty to work with but repells water and dirt like nothing else. Just a couple of questions. AC? UCA? FEA? And other than calmini, who makes a sl for the wd21. I see them for x-teras and hard bodys but never for my truck. A good list of places to get these things would help. Every thing I have owned before was chevy and parts are easy find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroad95pathy Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 (edited) AC= Automotive Customizers, 4x4parts.com http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...=shop/new_items UCA= Upper Control Arm FEA= Finite Element Analysis, an analysis method done through the use of a software program specifically for this type of analysis, I used COSMOS to do the analysis. It graphically and numerically depicts areas of stress/stain in a component. I used a modal analysis method: applied various loads to the UCA independently, (not interacting with other components). The weakest area was were the upper ball joint attaches to the UCA, the loads it would withstand would cause the BJ to fail before it got even close to causing any permanent bending which occurs when a material's yield is exceeded. There's any number of options depending on how fat your wallet is. Trail Master, Ruff Country, Super Lift make lifts from 2"-4" depending who you buy from. Do a search on this forum, there's been any number of conversations about different UCAs. There are also a number of options to the rear lift, which again, seaching this forum will reveal a plethora of information on that topic. I have the same truck as yours and have been able to find anything I needed up to this point, sometimes it takes a little time to find, but I've always been able to locate it. Edited December 25, 2006 by offroad95pathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partpathfinder Posted December 25, 2006 Author Share Posted December 25, 2006 AC= Automotive Customizers, 4x4parts.com http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...=shop/new_items UCA= Upper Control Arm FEA= Finite Element Analysis, an analysis method done through the use of a software program specifically for this type of analysis, I used COSMOS to do the analysis. It graphically and numerically depicts areas of stress/stain in a component. I used a modal analysis method: applied various loads to the UCA independently, (not interacting with other components). The weakest area was were the upper ball joint attaches to the UCA, the loads it would withstand would cause the BJ to fail before it got even close to causing any permanent bending which occurs when a material's yield is exceeded. There's any number of options depending on how fat your wallet is. Trail Master, Ruff Country, Super Lift make lifts from 2"-4" depending who you buy from. Do a search on this forum, there's been any number of conversations about different UCAs. There are also a number of options to the rear lift, which again, seaching this forum will reveal a plethora of information on that topic. I have the same truck as yours and have been able to find anything I needed up to this point, sometimes it takes a little time to find, but I've always been able to locate it. Thanks! It got really frustating tring to find aftermarket parts for this thing. But since finding out about this site everything has gotin clear. So a million thank to ya'll. OH. Merry christmas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroad95pathy Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 Thanks! There's all sorts of people on this forum with a variety of experiences, knowledge, contacts, sources, etc. I 've found it to be the most dependable for accurate info. Enjoy the Holidays! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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