offroad95pathy

With regards to the weight of a flywheel and torque, care should be taken in the use of terminology. The torque that an engine produces has nothing to do with the weight of the flywheel. In the most general terms and conditions, it is the amount of volume of air/fuel mixture moving thru the engine that gives you torque, how fast this volume moves gives you horsepower. It is torque, and torque only that is measured on a dyno, horsepower is derived from measuring the amount of torque over the working rpm range of the engine. A heavier flywheel slows the ability of the engine to excellerate, this is an inertia, unsprung weight issue. The extra weight provides additional momentum which conteracts the engine from slowing down ( giving the effect of so called more torque). Heavier flywheels also have a tendency to damage driveline components because of this same effect, when a spinning tire finally locks up, the energy has got to go somewhere, the weakest component brakes or you burn up a clutch etc.

If your looking for a Fidanza flywheel for your pathy, you need to get part #143871, this F-wheel has a 250mm disc surface, the #143281 is a 225mm disc surface and only works with 240, 260 and 280 Z's are the main applications, there might be a few others.

The backspacing measurement is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel to the back surface (lip) of the wheel. Offset is the measurement from the mounting surface of the wheel to the centerline of the wheel. The smaller the backspacing, the more outboard the wheel/tire moves. Negative offset means the mounting surface is inboard of the center of the wheel (pushes the wheel/tire outboard). Positive offset is the opposite.

I doubt that 3" of SL is is going to put you out of spec, or cause you to start having issues with you DS. But if your conscience needs to be soothed, once you get the lift finished, raise your truck so the rear axle hangs free without touching the ground and measure the angle you end up with (shop lift is the best way, where they can lift by the frame). You'll need one of those angle finders that can zero either horiz./vert., place it on top of the shaft and see what you get. You could actually calculate approxiamately what the angle change would be, but that's kind of a PIA.

When you shim a leafed rear axle, that's what you're doing, pointing the pinion toward the trans output shaft, to help reduce the acute angle at the u-joints. Average OEM DS's will do 25-30 degrees either end, Cardan equiped shafts will do 40-42 degrees, these are always under full travel conditions. A well built shaft would be dynamically balanced, the orientation of the pinion to the output shaft will not induce vibration as long as the angles are not exceeded in full travel relative to the limits (angles and rpm) of the DS.

Hey Skinny, I got a complete set I'll sell you for $20 + shipping, includes bushings and inner sleeves, Don't need them, I made new custom bushings and sleeves for mine. See Parts for Sale- 95 Pathy Parts.

If you buy the BL kit from AC they supply you with all the hardware, bolts etc. that you'll need. The 2 rear bolts are High strength harden metric bolts with 1.00 (fine) pitch thread, the chances of finding a Metric HS bolt with fine pitch in the length and size you need locally is slim to none. Using threaded rod I would strongly recommend against that. Nissan uses the type of bolts they've chosen (OEM) for a reason, there is a huge amount of stress that those bolts are subject to, even more so with any increase in BL lift. The AC kit puts the right stuff in the kit, so no prob!

Generally speaking, the greatest factor effecting torque is the velocity of the air/fuel mixture moving through the engine, higher velocity-more torque, the more volume of air/fuel mixture the more horsepower. There are headers designed specifically for either or a compromise of both. Small short tube headers are more for torque whereas large long tube headers are more for horsepower. So removing restrictions on the intake end is just as essential as dealing with the exhaust end of the system. Picking a good free-flow cat and the right type of muffler are also important.

I know 95% sure that any 240SX from 1995-1998 will work, but you will in most all cases have to swap pulleys minimum and possibly shim/washers to get it to line up correctly, and there are either 80A or 90A versions. Hope this helps some.

Alright, that makes sense. Thanks!

I believe the VG30 MAF is 50mm where as the VG33 is a 60mm MAF. I read a few places that the VG33 plenum is better than the VG30 due to a better air flow characteristics, it is supposed to provide some additional low-end torque???

Looking forward to hear how that turns out. I was seriously considering the same, replacing the complete intake plenum, TB and MAF and everything in between. Didn't know you had to replace the VC on the TB side of the plenum though, still doesn't sound to bad. A few pics would be nice when you get it all back together.

Why would you only swap out the MAF, you could also swap out the TB and upper plenum, opening up the entire airway so it could really get a good shot of air. I've heard of some mounting the 3.3 TB on the stock 3.0 plenum, but that requires some machining. I seen a few sources consistantly claim that the 3.3 plenum is more air flow efficient than the 3.0 plenum?

Do a search on "lifts" or "suspension", and you'll find all kinds of info to read and research, there are some pretty comprehensive threads with lots of info on the topics.

Got it! Thanks!

As mentioned, the first thing to check, is the Alt belt and the tension on it. If the belt is glazed/shiny- not good, replace it, if it's too loose, tighten it up, but be careful, adding additional tension on a worn belt is a bad idea, puts excess stress on the ALT bearings and will eventually break the belt. I use a rule I saw somewhere: find the longest span between 2 pulleys, determine the mid-point, depress 1/2" applying approx 10lbs force, more or less force to depress 1/2" is too tight or too loose. After the belt and tension is eliminated, next possibility would be ALT bearings. Electrically it's not a good idea to have a lot "Load" items on when you fire up your truck. Personally, I shut down everything before I turn it off. Especially when it's cold, I let it run a few minutes until I see the temp start to rise before I start turning things on.

The 240SX ALT has 2 versions: 80A no fog lights & 90A is used with fog lights, You may also have to swap pulleys, the 240's I've seen use serpentine belts. I have a series of pics in photobucket of the CS-144 install I did if anyone's interested. http://s130.photobucket.com/albums/p274/IG...95PathfinderXe/ The Quest ALT just puts out more amps, I think 110A, than the 240SX ALTs. I don't know of any ALTs that would fit without any adjustments at all, the 240SX would be the simplest, but you may have to do some tweaking at the pivot mount bracket with the spacing of the mounting ears on the 240SX ALT, maybe not???

I use Bosch wipers and RainX. I never have a problem with the wipers bouncing or skipping across the windshield. The RainX is nice because you don't have to turn the wipers on when traveling on the interstate unless it's a really heavy downpour, the water just flys right off the glass. Once in a while if it's really windy and you get a gust at the right angle it'll maybe lift one of the wipers and smear but on the return stroke it'll wipe it clean again, but that rarely happens.

Pardon me for using the wrong terminology, I didn't say bolt-on either,it certainly isn't a major rework nor does it require any significant fabrication. My CS-144 took the total of 2.5 hrs, that included cutting a piece 1/2" threaded rod and removing a small portion of the lower front corner of the engine mount bracket for clearance of the 0 AWG positive lug/cable. That to me was a drop-in project, didn't have to get the gas-axe out, or the welder, didn't have to machine anything, was all done with hand tools, a minor effort IMO. There are far more challenging and time consuming projects that one could take on than that. The point I was trying to make was that it wasn't a major effort.

Hey Nismo, why would you want to replace the Odyssey, I thought those are pretty good batteries? I was thinking about replacing my yellow top in the engine compartment with one of those because they take up less space.

Actually that's a fairly good price, most of the cost is labor anyway. Tell em you'll take it minus $1400, pull the trans yourself, and have it bench rebuilt, could save a good chuck of change if you were able to do that. Did you verify if the case had the updated mod. for the filler hole location? Wouldn't be worth putting any money into it if that wasn't done.

Putting in multiple batteries is a bandaid fix, the only thing that provides is a greater/longer reserve as a power source. Non deep cycle batteries will not last long if they are continuously runned down and charged back up, the plates decay, deep cycles can handle that type of use. The solution is a higher output alternator, period. If you are drawing more than the alternator puts out, you will still draw the batteries down, it'll just take slightly longer. I run a CS-144 200A dual rectifier, but that's because I am supplying power to the truck, and 2600W sound system, plus a few lights, this gives me plenty of reserve to add more lights later on without even putting a strain on the alternator. If you keep going like you are, you will eventually toast that alternator. The simplest and cheapest solution is go to the bone-yard and get a Quest alternator (drops right in) which puts out around 110A which will most likely take care of your situation.

Like 88 said, for US there was only 4.375 (4.38) or 4.625 (4.63). No such option as 4.78.

The driver side y-pipe doesn't take the EGR valve, that valve is attached to the drivers side of the intake plenum a little below and behind the throttle body, the control diaphragm is located above and a little forward of the valve attached to a bracket on the plenum. The EGR tube runs from that valve to the drivers side header just as it did on the original exhaust manifold.

When I installed mine, I didn't have to cut anything. It is recommended to attach the header loose on the drivers side so that you can get the proper alignment of the EGR tube (which is assumed you loosen that a bit) to the header and basically work it from that point. Attached the other header, both y-pipes, aligned and positioned everything, tacked the y-pipe, pulled it back out to completely weld, re-installed, tighten everything up and it was done, no problema! Didn't have to mess around with the cat or anything else, didn't have to bend anything either.