Pathfinder-jay Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Hey guys, been looking at getting some new shock absorbers and Ive seen many posts but not to many current ones. I dont offroad to often yet but I also dont want ****** shocks. Also I want to add in I plan on adding a 3 inch lift very soon via new coils, UCA's, etc... so I want something that can go with that Thanks Jay P.S. If you know of a place that sells em cheap feel free to point em out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted August 21, 2006 Share Posted August 21, 2006 Not very popular (yet), but I love the Heckethorns from Rough Country. Unlees you're running 32's or larger, get the 8000 series over the 9000's - the 9000's are pretty stiff, very similar to RS5000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdhicks99 Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 I love the Pro-Comp 3000's I have with 32's and 3" lift. I can't remember where I got them, Dan gave me the site, the price was right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Jay it really comes down to what type of ride you are looking for and what kind of wheeling your going to do... there is going to be a bit of trial and error involved too. But that will take place accross many years of your life. You may find over time that you prefer one shock over another. MWS told you about the Heckethorns/Rough Countrys and CD mentioned the ProComps. I have used Rancho RS5000's, Trail Master SSV's and ProComp ES3000's and would say that the Rancho RS5000 were the stiffest. I prefer the PC's over those. But I favor my TM's the most because they are progressive. Meaning that the harder the hit the stronger the dampening they provide Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Good info Red, the progressive action is usually benificial. I like the Procomp ES3000 up front, but they are a bit stiff in the rear when unladen... You might want to go with an adjustable shock in the rear. 4 wheel parts sometimes has a set of the procomps for about $120 incl a steering stabilizer. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 Progressive "might" be the wrong way to describe them... SSV stands for Speed Sensitive Valving.. it is not the further you compress them the harder they get, it's actually the faster you compress them the harder the get. So normal on road driving they are at their softest, untill to hit that pot hole or go off raod. I bought my ES3000's from 4WheelParts.com as B mentioned, just make sure you get the correct SS. I did not notice until I went to install it a couple months later and by then it was to late. I ended up just giving it away to a jeep owner I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder-jay Posted August 22, 2006 Author Share Posted August 22, 2006 (edited) Alright well Basically this is giving me a good excuse to go ahead and do my full 3 inch lift... I plan to offroad but not often... But I do alot of winter camping where my old car could not take me.... I want the pathy to be able to take me straight to the camp sites lol So what needs changing to complete this... Let me know if I got it down pat... -New UCA's -New Rear Shocks Shocks... **Now would it be good to get 4 of these to put in the front aswell? Are these the right one for when I go to 4 wheel parts it only shows titan... -New 3" lift coils I know you have to crank the torsion bars aswell... but would it be best to change them? I want a setup that will last me awhile and has little to no problems Thanks Jay Edited August 22, 2006 by Pathfinder-jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdhicks99 Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 (edited) Check for the rear part numbers here. The front shocks do not need to be changed unless they are worn. The rest looks good. I wish I knew when my SAS would be done I would sell you everything you need. Keep us updated. Cory Edited August 22, 2006 by cdhicks99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 you shouldn't need new torsion bars unless they sag after you adjust them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z_Pilot Posted August 22, 2006 Share Posted August 22, 2006 I absolutely LOVE my Old-Man-Emu shocks from down under. I got medium duty ones because I dont plan on towing much or or carrying big loads. The ride is awesome. FYI- It is coupled with a BDS lift >> springs and torsion bars. I am very happy with my set-up...most people probably won't be because it does not look like much lift....probably 2.5 to 3". Z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 You can get Thorleys for about the same price as the pace setters you listed, and they are far better made. $80 a shock is more than I would want to pay; I got the ES3000 for about $25 each if you include the SS (shipped). The springs you can get off of a JGC for cheap, there is a thread that covers the details. Ask if you can't find it. Damn, do you make too much $ or just not like to read ?? Trying to help ya... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder-jay Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 Hey guys Ive decided to go with these EXP.PRO COMP - ES3000 SHOCK Part Number: 322500 - In Stock This Product Fits: see application guide Ships via UPS Ground Only. 76.42 each... Or... ES9000 SHOCK EXP.PRO COMP - ES9000 SHOCK Part Number: 922500 - In Stock This Product Fits: see application guide Ships via UPS Ground Only. 89.42 each Or... TRAILMASTER - SSV SHOCK Part Number: 73660 - In Stock This Product Fits: see application guide Ships via UPS Ground Only. 99.17$ each These ones say they give 4 inch lift..so im guessing they are not good with my 3 inch lift coils from AC... Let me know if its better to get the 4 inch or 0 inch ones in this model thanks Or last but not least... RANCHO - RS5000 SHOCK Part Number: RS5118 - In Stock This Product Fits: see application guide Ships via UPS Ground Only. 89$each 1) Do I need to buy the rubber bushing type things for the shocks? ****Maybe get these headers...**** HEADERS NISSSN/PATH3.0 V6 PACESETTER - HEADERS NISSSN/PATH3.0 V6 Part Number: 701197 - In Stock This Product Fits: see application guide Ships via UPS Ground Only. 372$ for both ***And this...*** Pathfinder 3 Inch Rear Lift Coils 195 lbs. per square inch spring rate, provides 3" of lift. Powdered coated black for long lasting finish. Replaces stock coils. Can be used with 3" front A-Arm lift to stock attitude. I dont think im missing anything now...Let me know what you guys think is my best bet and if im missing anything to complete the 3 inch lift Thanks Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder-jay Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 You can get Thorleys for about the same price as the pace setters you listed, and they are far better made. $80 a shock is more than I would want to pay; I got the ES3000 for about $25 each if you include the SS (shipped).The springs you can get off of a JGC for cheap, there is a thread that covers the details. Ask if you can't find it. Damn, do you make too much $ or just not like to read ?? Trying to help ya... This is 80$ canadian shipped... which is rare to find. I got my local garage i go to and the guy gives me at price for those peices and he wanted 174 for the ranchos lol.... Im getting these off a canadian whole sale company... 80$ cdn might sound like alot but its free shipping, no taxes and no customers/brokage fees to pay eheheh As for the rear coils.... I dont want anything used or not fitted properly... and no I aint rich at all... just my rear coils broke and gave me an excuse to fix em.... Im just looking around at my options for the future.... Im thinking of taking a small loan to help pay it all off untill im done school Thanks Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 True, sorry, I didn't consider Canadian funny money, shipping, import, duties, customs, mounties, igloos and polar bears (all the things Pezzy complains about). Just seemed steep to me, but when you put it like that, well, there it is... Avoid the loan if you can, debt is rarely worth it. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder-jay Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 Well the loan would be kind of like financing my peices... which to me is alot easier then paying them all at once... I have good credit and never been late on payments just I dont think I can afford this large order all at once.... so out of that setup what do you guys recomment? Thanks Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb33 Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 well, i have a question. if you plan on doing some moderate off roading, i would just like to know why you are not keeping your black panther skids then? ok, the trailmaster SSV's i have only heard good things about, along with the procomp ES300's. (i heard the 9000 were too stiff to worry with) the ranchos i have heard are crap, although some swear by them. pacesetters i have read and heard are very poorly made, and it is worth it to just buy some thorleys, because of the quality. and you can buy new JGC coils from pretty much any car parts store, just make sure you get the right year....they end up being much much cheaper than ones you would buy as lift springs. -sam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Regarding boots on the shock shaft: Good: They reduce the chance of rocks hitting and dinging the shaft. Dings in the shaft can cut the seal, causing leaks. Bad: They trap dirt which will will work its way into the seal, causing leaks. So there you go... I do not use them as I do not follow other trucks closely so there is minimal risk of roost getting flung up high enough to hit the shaft. If you do choose to use them, slide the boots up and clean frequently. Rancho's are a fine product, made by Monroe, and will last for years. They're just a low tech design and are very stiff. IMHO, not at all worthy of the price they charge. The difference when I switched to Heckethorns was huge - no less control (actually, even more) and a much more comfortable ride on the road. The suspension actually moves when I go over bumps! No more buckboard like 1 ton truck stiff ride. Some think that is how a truck should ride and like it, and I respect that. Personnaly, I'm just too old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 I'll second the fact that the RS5000's are stiff. I had them in my GMC back in the day. Great shocks, but you didn't realize they were new shocks untill you hit a HUGE bump. Other than that they'd rattle your teeth all day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Kinda like comparing a 1990 Trans Am with the Wxxr performance handling package and an Acura NSX. They were both capable of turning some impressive cornering speed numbers, but used two approaches to handling. The TA was basically a rigid setup. Did great on billiard table smooth skid pads. But in real life, it bounced and skipped over bumps. The NSX set a new standard for suspension compliance in sportscars - it was set up to let the wheels track over the bumps and never bounce or go airborne. After all, a tire in the air has 0 traction. If you watch off road truck racing, you'll see they are finally following the same approach. Long travel, high compliance suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder-jay Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 Alright well I decided to go ahead with the trailmaster SSV's, the AC 3 inch lift coils for the rear and ill change my UCA soon enough in the front... Couple questions/info If I lift the back can I leave the front lower untill I get new UCA's... I read with out new ones installed if doing a complete 3 inch lift that I wouldnt be able to get a proper alignments... I basically want a setup that will last.... Also when I do get the UCA's are there any parts in particular that I should also be replacing in the front... I dont want to go and get all this stuff then a week later something brakes due to the lift etc... I also heard lifting it 3 inchs might make my torsion bars sag...? Another question is should I be replacing my Shock absorbers in the front? They are new but with the 3inch lift do I need new ones? Thanks Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb33 Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 (edited) Also when I do get the UCA's are there any parts in particular that I should also be replacing in the front... I also heard lifting it 3 inchs might make my torsion bars sag...? Another question is should I be replacing my Shock absorbers in the front? They are new but with the 3inch lift do I need new ones? 1 buy some new ball joints, and if bushings (for some reason) dont come with the UCA, get them.... 2 once you crank your T-bars for the first time, they may sag back to normal ride height, this can be corrected by purchasing aftermarket Tbars....i have sway away, and like them very much... 3 sometimes you can get package deals with all 4 shocks if thats the case, might as well...and if you are looking for this to be solid, why not replace them?? -sam Edited August 24, 2006 by sammyb33 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 You do not need longer shocks for the front. You will use the same length as stock. And in the rear, longer shocks are desired to get maximum travel, but not absolutely required. So I would advise keeping what you have now (assuming they're not shot) and not go into debt for something you don't absolutely need. From an engineering and metallurgical perspective, there is no reason the TB's should sag just because you cranked them. The load remains exactly the same regardless of the preload. Again, do the free crank and save the money until you need them. I would advise against significantly (more than an inch or two) lifting only one end or the other. That will affect your caster angle could lead to unpredictable handling. Yeah, you see people do it all the time... But then again, lots of people do meth, too. Don't confuse commonality with intelligence or common sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 I loved my CLAMINI shocks that came with the lift kit. With my wonderful situation lately, they are nolonger on the truck and now I have Rancho RS5000's. Don't really want to knock them cause Rancho is a good brand/company, but not liking them over the CALMINI's. Does anyone know who manufactures CALMINI's shocks? Just curious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 25, 2006 Share Posted August 25, 2006 But then again, lots of people do meth, too. Don't confuse commonality with intelligence or common sense. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder-jay Posted August 25, 2006 Author Share Posted August 25, 2006 TRAILMASTER - SSV SHOCK Part Number: 73660 - In Stock This Product Fits: see application guide Ships via UPS Ground Only. 99.17$ each These are the ones id like to purchase... but when i go purchase them it has the option of 0" lift and 4" lift... what ones do I get? Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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