FUELER

whatever you do, make sure it's your final decision cause it's a lot of labor to swap them springs out! I have the old man emu springs, i think they somewhere around the 35mm mark and i'm happy with them. And with such a mild lift you don't need camber bolts or warn hubs.

Sweet, thanks JamesRich!! One more question - when i'm sliding the anchor arm onto the torsion bar (with nut backed all the way off), should I have the truck lifted off the ground or should i have where the wheels touching the ground at "normal" ride height ?

Thanks precise and Koveman. Precise, you don't have to take a pic, i'll use the other side as a reference since it seems to be properly installed. So, to re-install, I loosen the anchor adjusting nut to the max, (so that the anchor is at its most extreme angle) then i slip the anchor over the t-bar and start cranking the nut down? How do i know when to stop cranking? Also, do you know if the anchor with retaining ring installed will slip thru the hole on the crossmember, when not under any tension, or will i have to put the anchor thru the crossmember first and then install retaining ring? Thanks in advance. We ordered the new anchor, waiting til Thursday to install.

stripped enough for ya??? Luckily the splines on the torsion bar are still 100% It looks like the torsion bar only goes in like half an inch, is that normal?

updates with pics...

koveman, im glad you find that funny. Im sorry i have zero knowledge of torsion bar suspension, learning as i go. Plus i need to get this lowrider WD out of my driveway!!! Thanks redpath, i will post pics in a few mins, hopefully they will show what i mean...

UPDATE sorry, the torsion bar is NOT snapped off. the rear anchor point is loose in the crossmember, but the bolt that holds it in (very long bolt that points up) is still intact, just very loose by inch) but still has nut on top. Is it possible that the rear anchor point might have worked its was loose and caused the t-bar to pop out??

Thanks dude. Yup just checked, the torsion bar is snapped off at the very rear where it mounts to crossbrace!!

driving the desert today, BANG suddenly the drivers side suspension is dropped like a lowered Pathfinder and riding on the bumpstop. Still driveable to a point. Torsion bar not connected to anchor in the rear. Nut that holds anchor to crossmember, is loose by an inch but intact with nut on it, and holding anchor loosely. Where does one "crank" (tighten) the torsion bars? At the front or rear? Its dark out now but I want to have an idea what to look for tomorrow. Thanks in advance rear connection of front torsion bar anchor not held in place.

well when you get a "4 wheel alignment", they use the rear as a reference point... but you can only adjust the fronts (to line up with the rears)

Thanks MY1PATH !!!

its the VG 3.3 liter, not the VQ 3.5 but i am checking the connectors anyways. Thanks kingman!

Hey folks, Say you blasted a water crossing with a little more speed than you should have been going, and your engine shut off (but didnt hydrolock - intake tube was dry and clean) but engine was soaked from top to bottom in muddy water. After that, it fired up and ran fine that day but started acting up a few days later. Randomly, it started backfiring and running very rough, no power at high RPMs, and within 5 mins it wouldnt even stay running for more than a few secs. After changing the plugs, checking plug wires, cleaning distributor, nothing changed. I unplugged the MAF and plugged it back in, VOILA ran perfectly... for a few more days. Started acting up AGAIN today, unplugging/cleaning the MAF did not work this time. I checked as many electrical connections as i could, my question is, are there any common electrical problems i should look for after my R50's encounter with water? also, now that it wont even fire up without running horrible and dieing, it shows a code of "camshaft position sensor" but thats without even turning on, thats just attempting to turn it on. Any ideas?

updated with new pics. he has already ditched the geolanders in favor of 31" BFG all terrains, runs so much smoother! $570 out-the-door for BFG's not bad right?

why was your gas gauge not working ?

nevermind! Wasnt hydrolock at all - water got into the plug for the MAF sensor! All fixed!

put the chinese (lifetime warranty) axles next to the OEM axles you will notice that the chinese ones are much thinner in a few spots the chinese ones do not have a rubber damper ring installed, like the OEM ones do (eliminates vibrations) A chinese axle (like autozone or oreilly) costs about $80 retail. With a wholesale account, they are only $30. Oreilly buys them for like $10 a pop. Do you really want to run $10 axles on a $1000 lift kit ???

Nice lift!!! My advice, dont go with cheap chinese axles, or even rebuilt OEM axles. They are cheaper in the short term but more expensive in the long run. Repair the torn boot you got or replace with brand new Nissan axle...

Tyler, you're animal!!!! Props!! So jealous! PS question about yoru hydrolocked VG33 - how did that go down? The reason i ask, is i hydrolocked mine over the weekend and it fired up but ran funny for 20 mins. Now runs fine, should I worry?

Precise - do those zx studs go right in the stock holes with no modification?

When we're doing the studs, im going to take off the timing cover and look at the water pump to see if it's new or not. That would be a good indicator of whether the timing belt has been replaced or not, right??