magregor

Hey guys. It's been a looong time since I've been here! Anyways, I need to pick some mechanical brains on finding resources to get some engine specs for a project I'm doing. I am looking for specific dimensions on the RB20DET engine/tranny. Looking for the length of the block, length of the Tansmission from the center of the shifter, to the mounting surface on the bell housing. And maybe even the overall length from the front of the engine to the center of the shifter (with tranny mounted to block obviously) I know NPORA has a wealth of resourceful members/gearheads, so hoping someone can point me in the right direction, because Google ain't pulling much up for results... Thanks

I used a heavy duty gate hinge (1/4" plate) and just cut the hoop off of it that held the hinge pin and drilled 2 holes that lined up with the Idler Arm bolts...I had to use longer bolts for the Idler Arm, which I had kicking around the garage. For the Centerlink mount, I used an angle bracket for the gate hardware (3/16" thick), but it was a 6" bracket, so I just cut off what I needed and then used (2)- 1 1/4" U-bolts I found in the gate hardware section as well. All parts totaled $14.61. I took a suggestion from the forum and bent the OEM bracket as flush as I could to the new centerlink and had my son run the steering wheel, while I was underneath checking and adjusting the clearances, etc. I had to make one adjustment after, as I had the bracket on the Centerlink too far to the drivers side and it caused the shock to top out, so I moved it an inch or so and all is good. HUGE difference in how the truck handles now!

Here's the pics guys, As you can see, the brand new pin is still there for the OEM stabilizer so if anyone needs it, I can take it off for them :-) I used 14 bucks in hardware from Rona, all from the gate section. considering the Rancho kit costs 65 bucks, I figured since everything else on my truck is fabricated, I might as well do this too!

Thanks for the replies guys! I went to the hardware store today and spent $14 bucks and now have it mounted. I will post pics of the work once I transfer them off my Blackberry. There were a few tweaks (just adjusting to make sure it didn't bind on extension of compression, but all went well and what a HUGE difference in how the truck handles on the front end!

Anyone install the Rancho RS5000 Dampener without buying the $65.00 kit? I bought the Dampener, but not the kit and want to know if anyone has pics of their install or suggestions on location of the brackets, etc...

You just unbolt it at the rubber flex joint below your brake booster. It is a tricky spot, but can be done.

HAHAHAHA!!! I just sent you a PM with links to Facebook and my Photobucket where all the important pics are of the templates I cut out, the frame repairs, etc. I have the rest of the pics on my external drive at work...so if you need more, let me know what specific areas you need and I will see what I can find. I used saw horses with 2X10 planks. Main advice is to jack it up SLOWLY, to make sure you have all the harnesses, lines and linkages clear from the frame. Have an extra set of eyes/hands to help you watch all angles as you lift the body. use the frame to help you as you lift (4X4 blocks at the body mounts - adding them progressively as you lift to keep truck stable).

PS, yes...I have a touch of bodywork to do when it warms up...She is gonna be Military Flat Green when it is warm enough to spray!!!

Thought I would throw up some pics of the latest upgrades to Pathy...Custom 3" Lift in, made a couple bumpers, modded bushbar and such...(Thanks Judge for the Steel!!!) Next on the list is a bit of exhaust work and the winch Front Bumper and modified BushBar Rear Bumper and Jerry Can Carrier (rerouted tailpipe to shoot out the back and also sectioned hitch to hug the bumper... Rear Bumper before paint (Gotta love Princess Auto for 11,000 lb recovery rings!!!

Man, Al, I didn't think your Pathy had any rust! not from the few times I saw it! Ahh well, I have repaired both of my Pathy's, Judge's Pathy and dududuckling's pathy AND a bit on Adamzan's, so I am no stranger to the wonderful body rust on our trucks! Good luck and welcome to the rust club

I just found this link, which would be actually better suited than what I found. You can just make your own bracket and follow the instructions they provide in this .pdf file :-) http://www.aftermartwholesale.com.au/Downloads/Dual%20Battery%20Fitting%20Instructions.pdf

I had some help from an Aussie here on NPORA about how to mount second battery where the airbox is and rerouting the airbox, etc. I can dig it up if ya need to see some pics

That is a PILE of cash when I have a second alternator I own as a trail spare... I agree man, I believe in working with what'cha have before spending a pile of cash...Not that I would LOVE to have a beefy 180 amp alt. though!

I was just thinking of having a separate charging system with additional battery to run my 8 lights and winch so I am not taxing my existing system. I have the instructions on where to place a second battery, but I guess I can figure out how to mod the brackets, that isn't really the issue...it is how to wire it into my truck to charge the second battery. Then I will just only wire the accessory lights and winch specifically to that battery/charging system.

I heard that there is a link somewhere that someone posted about mounting a second alternator where the AC pump used to be...I had to take out the AC, as both lines were cracked anyways...I have the mod instructions for installing a second battery, but I figured instead of taxing the current alternator with all the lights and winch (future plan), I would have a completely separate system for the accessories. Anyone have some ideas on how to mod the brackets and wire in a second alternator?

that is quite a decent write-up! Don't think I would bother tackling it, but for those who would...very informative!

That looks AWESOME! I agree with Precise1! another project to try

uhh, you using Lexan?

With you on that one Beastpath, I get this twitch in my right eye when it comes to troubleshooting electrical problems!

It is the old type odometer, not the digital lcd

yuppers!

Also, if you have any steering components apart, I would suggest sticking in an Idler Arm brace ( I fabricated my own) but Calmini has them for 30 bucks. Just another added comfort Mine Calmini

Very innovative! I have a cluster out of a parts truck that has a bad tach...I should try that to see what colors would suit best! Thanks Nunya!

Agreed Terrano, agreed for sure!