93xe

close up of jl at the end of the rack, you can barely see the distrobution block underneath it

i made a wooden amp rack out of 3/4" mdf that stretched the entire length of the panel, traced it to the shape of the rear lower driver side trunk panel, and mounted a JL 300/4 4 channel amp, an MTX 6500d sub amp, and a 0 gauge distrobution block

other guys insurance calling the pathy a total loss...estimated at $3200, way more than i was expecting. I spent about 3 hours today ripping all my audio gear out of it, i realized i never posted pics, so i figured i would show how i mounted my amps without sacrificing room and seat fold down capability WITH an interior spare tire carrier (which sucks by the way and takes up WAY too much room in the back. With this setup the back seats still recline, spare tire comes in and out easily, amps are hidden to prying eyes, and there is plenty of space behind the tire for air so the amps dont get hot spare tire

got it

unless its a brand new pioneer, you will still need an aux input adapter. Pioneers never came with aux in, there is a twenty dollar cable that plugs into the changer port and gives you rca aux in

the non bose pathfinders are 6x9 in the front and 6.5 in the rear, haven't pulled the doors off a bose equipped one yet, however bose likes to put small speakers in large locations, so it could be different

you will not be able to plug the drive and play directly into the bose headunit. There is a changer port, but it will only work with the factory din cable/changer. There are companies that make aux input adapter for radios with cd changer controls, not sure if they are available for the nissan/bose decks. Check out www.peripheral.com , www.usaspec.com , www.blitzsafe.com for adapters.

thanks for the support...just waiting on insurance now..

thats what im doing tomorrow morning....

one more pic... precise - i know it doesn't look bad but the whole front end is sitting slightly off to the left, and the steering is very loose...truck is only worth around what 2-3g in mint condition?? thats why i figured it would be totaled, and like i said if not totalled i will part out anyway and get a frest start on something a little newer

well i had no ride to work the day after so after some work with a crowbar, a chain, a big tree and some ducttape i was able to drive...although very slowly...i checked before heading out onto the road and at about 3/4 front suspension compression the tire hits the damaged metal inside the fender...so i am not gonna drive it anymore

and another

another...

got some pics...doesn't look as bad as it actually is, and now the steering is wobbly and alignment way off...

sorry for the delayed responses...i work retail this weekend has been pretty crazy. It is not just the d.s. fender but the whole front bumper, grille, headlight and corner assembly, hood is bent, fender flare, wheel well liner, under bumper spoiler, and the air box in the fender is cracked. The truck is almost 14 years old, although low miles (under 113,000), frame was rusted but professionally boxed in over a year ago. I just figured that the age combined with all the components that will need replacing would warrant a total, in which case i would buy it back and part it out. I love my pathy, its my second one, but its my only transportation and i have been looking to upgrade to something a little more suited to my situation. I really never have more than one passenger, and i have to haul sheets of mdf and atv's constantly so i am leaning towards a 98-02 frontier king cab. Anyways, i should know this week what the decision is and as soon as i do you guys will be the first to know. Truck is a 1993 xe-v6, manual windows, manual locks, dark gray exterior, light grey interior, 15x6 chromies, rear wing w/ 3rd bl, etc. Pics coming soon EDIT: located outside of Philadelphia, PA

Guy in a minivan smashed my drivers side front fender/bumper.Pics to come...but i think she is totalled...grey exterior/interior 93 xe 5 speed manual windows and locks...look for a complete part out soon in the fs section..

the speaker is probably just bad...these stock speakers in these trucks have a tendency to dry rot and flake away (especially the front ones)...buy a new pair of fronts and bypass the amp...

speaker size is usually determined by the grille on the door panel...if there is a rectangular rounded grille its probably a 5x7", the factory speaker is slightly smaller than most aftermarket 5x7s but you can make them fit by bending the extra tabs on the speaker and grinding off some of the material on the plastic adapter. If there is a round grille its a 6.5", but if there is a round grille but an oval speaker on a plastic adapter underneath, you just take off the whole speaker and adapter and a 6.5" fits right in (4x6 speakers suck). hope this helps

maybe the interlock button??

yea, im positive i checked multiple times, thanks for the tips more updates tomorrow...

update...tore everything apart today, got the signals to work on a constant with a jumper and fuse...so the flasher seems to be bad after all. Go to put it all back together, and everything works fine for ten seconds then goes now all i have is my left signal again. I went to pep boys to get a new flasher (part ep34 by their books), plug it in, and all the fuses blow instantly. As soon as i replace the fuses the plug the original flasher back in the left works again. What the hell is the exact replacement flasher part?? Been to two stores so far and they are clueless about everything, and im getting tired of using hand signals while shifting

yup...checked them all

now whats the easiest way to test the flasher...buy a new one?? or find a similar relay somewhere else and swap it??

good call ill check now thanks for the info

what exactly do you mean by flasher?? i replaced the hazard switch, no trailer wiring i checked...