k9sar

I think the goal is to NOT have to reuse them in the future

make sure you post a pic once you behead it.

but it sure was nice of Nissan to provide us with that nifty removal tool.

I use whatever the other trucks have on them Maybe when I get a fancy bumper like the Pezzysaurus, I can mount my own.

I had a napkin get drawn into the blower and it made a helluva racket. Didn't realize what it was until I pulled it apart and saw the mess.

ummm... not necessarily. The VG30E was in pathys back then. Typically, teh KA24 was in the hardbodys look at your VIN. the 4th digit tells your engine. H is the VG30, S is the KA24

The only advice that I can give is the following: Make sure you loosen and tighten your head bolts (and cams bolts etc) a little at a time and never adjacent ones. Do a criss-cross alternate side pattern to prevent warpage. Be aware of the alignment spacers (little rings) that are often located between the head and the block. If you want to clean your cylinders, I reco a little water into each cyl before putting your sparkies back. This will effectively steam clean the tops of the cyl etc. Not to much... it doesn't compress. Make sure you get a good clean surface for your new head gaskets. Take the extra time to clean the old one off very well. I suggest new head bolts. Even though you may think the look fine and tighten ok, they are already stressed (stretchy) and you increase your chance of failure if you reuse the old ones (though I did and have had no issues) Good luck. I have the real 94 and 95 manuals (plus they're online) if you get stuck and have a question. Not a lot of engine differneces from 92 wrt the block and heads.

usually just need to tighten the hose clamps. Lemme see if I can find a previous post about it... the link it's about a half inch dia 3" ling hose that you can see if you look down on the top of your block. I'll get a pic tonight if I can. If you don't smell as, I'm pretty sure that's not your problem

little short fuel hose connecting injector rails on top of engine but under the intake

in my opinion, it won't make a difference unless you are missing with your current gap. Too much gap and you chance not firing and grounding through the wires. Too little (or none) and you may not have enough spark to consistently ignite. If it's working, don't F with it. 'specially plug no 6

any noticable gas smell? In cold weather, there's a common leak point that may be helping degrade your mileage. Certainly the type of driving has an effect (if you're a lead-foor or a highway granny etc.) If nothing seems obvious, start keeping a log and track your drive style/conditions and mpg (or kpg).

anyone? anyone? 95 pathy at highway speed, turned on cruise control and hit the set button. took foot off gas and coasted slower adn slower until the cruise control system decided to shut itself off cause I guess there was too great of a difference between actual speed and set speed. I'll prolly pull out the service manual later this week (when I get some spare time) but was wondering if anyone had a similar failure and what the fix was

I received the same info from thorley and others who have done the install. Even though they don't list them for an AT, they are "usually not an issue".

that was me. here's the link to the thread. You can tell where the link is from there. thread

now all I need is a nice warm dry weekend and a BFH to install them

*snicker*

no problem. It's all part of the system, right?

plus... the dang orange screw-pin is annoying

I'll have to look again. thought mine was a solid piece

nice score on those thorleys. I saw them but by the time I did the cross reference to see if they'd fit, they were gone. Buggers were listed for a pickup with a manual trans. Apparently (and confirmed by thorley) there have been MANY successful installations of this model number onto pathys with AT's.

man... I'd suer like to get my hands on cheap headers but I've heard so many problems installing the pacesetters and I don't have a welder to fruck around with them.

wow. Never saw one constructed like that. Must be that 'new technology' stuff.

yea, but the trouble is when the coating gets chipped or scratched. If the underlying metal is prone to rust, it will. I figure that a good heavy coat of paint or epoxy will prolong the life.

I have NEVER heard of a pully mounted to a rubber base. sounds like BS to me. Also, screw the labor, do it yourself. Belts are cheap. Sounds like they want to rake you for about $400 for labor. Pulley's for the 96-00 pathy are dealer list at 214.88 but I can get for 161.16 at my local dealer. The tensioner lists for $66.53. Local is 49.90. T-belt lists $38.69. 29.02 local. You can mail-order them from my dealer but I'm not sure how much shipping would be. If it's too much, let me know and I can pick tehm up local and send USPS in a flat-rate box for like 8 bucks. Conicelli Nissan

bought a few shackles and decided I'd like them to be a nice bright color. They are drop-forged, galvanized steel. I tried a rust-oleum metallic spray but it doesn't hold real well. Besides grinding off the galvanized surface, any suggestions on getting a good adhesion from paint?