k9sar

may be the tailgate. opent he hatch and take a little screwdriver and push the rubber slide switch up inside the latch mechanism. Should make interior lights go out etc. can you be a little more specific about how you know the truck thinks a door is open? Is it the dash isiot light, the dome light on, the alarm not passively arming, etc?

no worries. glad you found it.

so...please clarify... I understand that you have nothing when you turn the ignition key do you have dome lights when you open your door? do you have headlights when you turn the switch (no key)? keyless entry? If so, do the power locks work etc? This would rule out the ignition switch. did you check the fusable link off the hot side of your battery? Poke around in the fusebox... any 12V on either side of any fuse (no key)? If ground is bad, things won't work but you'll read 12V on a voltmeter (ground probe to frame, not the ground circuitry)

Jim had a nice writeup on cleaning the upholstry....

are there any vo-tech schools around there? A buddy of mine got a deal where he let the school have his car to rebuild. Students did the labor and learned. All he had to pay was the parts and even those were cheap cause lots were donated to the school. He got it back in great shape and threw a nice donation to the school afterwards since he had saved so much. Just a thought

95 SE here... works just like KILLVOX described. If you do some vehicle research at http://www.edmunds.com/used/nissan/index.html you might be able to tell which vehicles had it.

not totalled but not as much as I would like (it's a fine line between getting all you can and not getting screwed). Time to head home for a weekend of beating on metal.

Happy Birthday Cory!

hrumph! have to pry the bullbar away so I can get the hood open. grrrrrrr

you can just punch a small hole in your upper rad hose and once the air is out, throw a couple wraps of duct tape around it.

wow... you can get away with typing "dickhead"

wife is still a bit flinchy and my oldest son was complaining that his shoulder hurt but he seems fine today. He's out playing with a friend and not wincing. Doc didn't find aything to be concerned about. Insurance dickhead comes to see the truck tomorrow morning. I'm gonna have an estimate already made up (since I've been here before and have all the numbers) and we'll see how well he can do his job.

that I can see but, in a direct impact, I believe it helps.

I believe the brush guard cushioned the blow significantly.

I laughed at the title change too. Guess "B!TCH" was a little harsh. Anyway... still waiting for the insurance idiots to get back in touch with us. I had to take a hammer to it this morning to gain enough clearance for my right wheel to turn so I could limp it to work today. I hope those bastages come out for the appraisal soon so I can get to fixing it.

or it could be that blasted hornets nest inside my rear bumper.

check FSM pg EC-277 (and it's referred to as the CKPS)

hissing from fuel pump. engine not running but key turned to ON. No exhaust gasses moving and same sound.

my fuel pump makes a hissing sound. I initially thought I had a tire going down but it's definately the fuel pump

longer is OK. The problem is that the last coil in the JGC springs tapers into a 3" or so diameter and the pathy needs 4" or so clearance. Option 1 is to cut the 'pigtail' off (see pics from my link) or torch the pigtail and bend it out to the needed diameter.

Nancy is a bit shaken. My son (9) is going to the doctors with chest pains. I'm doing ass-cheek exercises so I can clamp them shut when the insurance **** come callin'. Best situation would be to have them assess the damage at a point of 'not quite totalled' and give me the money. I can get it on the road cheaper than they estimate and I'll apply the rest to new toys.

actually, the skids may have stiffened the frame enough to keep it straight so I only have to deal with body damage. (throws a quick hi-five towards Marcel)

I'm not a fan of the spray-on white lithium grease. I much prefer that which has the consistency of mayonaise. Although, the spray may get into the joint better.

:furious: Well, the wife had my truck last night and on the way home from karate, she rear-ended a F-350. Apparently, there was a train coming and someone slammed on their brakes (go figure), then the ford slammed on his to avoid hitting the yahoo in front of him. Nancy couldn't stop in time and nailed him. Damage assessment ongoing but I should be able to get it in the road again. Just don't want to fruck around with the insurance company if they choose to total it. Then I have to argue the value, try to buy it from them, get a salvage title, try to insure it, etc. hrumph! :idea: at least I have my father's day presents to help me out. Craftsman half inch drive rachet to help me fix it or, if that fails, I can make it go boom with my other presents. edit: changed thread title a bit -88

those thin lubes are just a temp fix. I would hit it with some PB to loosen it up (work it several times etc) then wipe it clean and smear some Dow 111 on it. That's a good thick silicone grease. Work that into the joints and you'll be good to go for awhile.