k9sar

finishing touches... I used one of the spare holes in each of the heads to run in a stud from the exhaust manifold. Threaded on a nut, bored out the ground wire connector so they would fit on the studs then locked it onto the studs with another nut. I now have both ground connectors reattached to the heads. I filled the crankcase and added some Lucas additive (about 5 qts total due to the added hoses and filter). When I fired up the engine, it roared to life but started dripping oil from the adapter plate for the relo kit that was on the block. Damnit. The only way to get at it to tighten it was to pull the starter (good thing I modified it to come out easy). I got another 1/8 to 1/4 turn on it, replaced the starter and cranked it up again. No leaks. I ran it to temperature and watched the smoke billow out from under the hood. Stickers, PB Blaster and paint all getting hot and burning off the headers. I'm concerned that the oil filter hoses are too close to the header so I may fashion a heat shield or use an insulative wrap. It runs a little rough but I think that is due to the O2 sensor being bombarded with burning paint fumes and such from the new install. A couple days and she should be fine.

Getting ready for header installation. Not much room to work through the wheel well on the passenger side. Discovered that the leftmost stud had been replaced with a larger one at some point. This was a replacement engine so I had nothing to do with it. Since the thread was now different and my bolts wouldn't fit, I decided to put the stud back. It bigger than the stock ones so I thought it would be strong enough. Unfortunately, as I tightened the bolt on it and tried to go to the proper torque, I felt it start to strip in the aluminum head so I stopped and will just cross my fingers and hope it's ok as is. final location of relo kit.

The result of grinding, drilling, praying and cussing... new pressure switch and filter relo adapter. Not sure if the threads were just tight or if I had a mismatch british to english thread count but I wrenched it on and got it tight to the block. With each turn, I expected to hear a "crack" but it survived. Will check for leaks later today. Bracket I made from an old galvanized 4x4 post holder. Had to cut the top off the connector holder to make it fit inside but it adds a little support to the bracket. A little constructive aluminum bending... viola'... a drip tray to keep the oil off my connectors when I change the filters

Sorry to see you go. You were my last link to an earlier time in my life when I lived in Las Cruces and spent quite a bit of time offroad with my pathy out there. My company is bidding on another project that might bring me back to that area. If so, we'll have to find you an old pathy and go hit the BLM land

I 2-bolted the passenger side on to check to see how bad it would be to NOT install my oil filter relo. Kinda tight in there. Anyway... with the one header in place, I loose-fitted the crossover to see what all the fuss was about with respect to haveing an auto tranny. Seems like there will be plenty of room but I won't really know until I get the drivers side on. Tomorrow.....

hasn't failed me yet. Of course, mine was done in the parking lot of a walmart. Yours is a much cleaner install. Nice job.

nice weather is on the way.... Back under the truck tomorrow.

is that Simon's old rig revived?

I paid about $300 for mine from rock auto

one of the pipes is hitting though I'm not sure which one. It was dark and rainy and I was shoving the damned thing up from underneath. I thought I would at least get it in place and hold it with a couple bolts just to check the crossover fitment but it wouldn't go flat against the head due to the motor mount. ****** weather today and tomorrow so I will get more info and possibly a pic later in the week. I will also have the time to try to figure out exactly how it is interfering. My main question here was if my motor mount was somehow different than others who have installed these.

ok... ready to install but there is an issue on the drivers side. Seems that the header pipes interfere with the motor mount. Anyone else have this issue (anyone with a 95 SE w/ AT)? Here is a pic of the item in the way:

Scott 1 Broken stud 0

YEa... the postperson delivered them as I was cursing at my truck. Yes, they are left handed and I treated them accordingly. The extractor I used was designed to drill into grade 10.x steel. I'll give it another try tomorrow before I try the weld.

well... I had to take the steering linkage off to get clear access with a drill. I was successful in removing one of the studs in the drivers side by drilling through it and using a square extractor. Easy as pie... until... On the second one, I drilled through the stud (did I mention that a 13 piece cobalt drill set was on sale at sears for $25?). Anyway... I tapped in the extractor to get a bite on the stud, got on it with my extractor socket, extension and breaker bar (like the prior one) and gave a bit of a twist. I got about 1/4 of a turn and then SNAP! Not only did the extractor snap but it broke uneven so there is no hope of getting centered on it to drill it out. So I flattened the tip of my centerpunch trying to get a mark on the broken extractor. I then was able to take one of my old spiral easy-outs and beat it into the broken piece to chip off a little sliver and make a center(ish) dimple. Now I have a palce to drill but.... damnit... nothing is drilling through it. I tried the bit that was on one of my extractors (a grabit I think it's called, I tried the bits that B sent, I tried cobalt drills, I tried masonry drills, I tried waving a chickenbone cross over it and this is as far as I got: So the way I see it, I have 2 options left... trying to weld on a nut and replacing the head Question... I am thinking that I need to get a small nut and taper one side so it fits only on the stud end without being on the aluminum head. Then I need to hold it in place and hit the center of it with a weld. Do I need to be careful not to weld the nut to the aluminum or is that not going to happen (I know very little about welding different materials)?? Any detailed hints? I figure I'll stop at Lowes and buy a welder on my way home from work. No thing big, just enough to work on @!*% like this and perhaps customizing my exhaust system if it doesn't quite fit.

Question for all you who have installed headers... Seems there is a lip where the headers mount to the engine. should I grind these flat or trust that the pipe will seal good enough?

nice... where do you pickup one of those?

I have them and I hate them. They take up too much room on my garage floor.

I also did some digging through my tool piles and found that I actually do own a right-angle drill attachment. Now what I need is decent weather.

sounds good but they snapped down inside about a thread or 2.

I was recently at the pacesetter site and there were different part numbers for the 95 pathy with auto and manual trannys. The 1198's are for MT, the 1197's are AT. http://www.pacesetterexhaust.com/headers_truck.php Hardbody 4WD/5 spd,Pathfinder/ 5 spd 90-95 V6 1-1/2" 2" 1, 3, 6 G7175 70-1198 72C1198 Hardbody/ Pathfinder, 4WD, auto 90-95 3.0L, V6 1-1/2" 2" 2, 3, 6 G7175 70-1197 72C1197

hmm... 90 degree... will make a HF run in the morning I guess. as for the spade bits... sure. I'll pm my address. If you include your return addy, I'll throw back another FSM if you want. I think I still have a folder on my computer called For_Bernard. update: I tried to PM you but I received a message that you can not receive any new messages.

so I spent the day cutting my old exhust system out and got to the point where I removed my exhaust manifolds. I have 2 studs that have snapped off in the head. So there I sit, looking through the wheel well at the broken studs and wondering how the hell I'm gonna get a drill in there to get at them. Suggestions? If my air-powered drill (little thing) doesn't work, I was thinking about taking a steel rod, drilling a hole in the end to accomodate my drill bit, side drilling to put a set screw and hoping I get everything straight. This would effectively make a footlong drill bit extension (for one size). That would let me get at the broken studs.

nice work

you laugh but it worked and I haven't had any problems since.

The solution seems simple to me.... go to walmart and buy a pack of vinyl letters in the automotive detailing section and add the words "Trail Scar" near it.