k9sar

my guess would be that some oil dripped onto the exhaust system and was burning off.

true. If you intended to do major work or download a bunch of information for multiple projects. It's kinda steep (IMO) for the casual do-it-yourselfer. But then again, I got my manuals as part of the deal when I bought my pathy.

'cept that costs money for a subscription

if they can get there... it's kinda steep.

this 'll be great. They love him over there on the AC boards.

I have not seen the data online but the manuals sometimes show up on ebay. I have a 94 manual and a 95 suppliment if there are any specifics you need. I can probably send the info or scan the appropriate pages for you

apparently it's a big thing in the UK. Do a google search on LPG vehicle and you'll find lots of info.

It's a JEEP thing, but a shot of penicillin should clear it up

liquid petrolium gas (known as propane around here)

dude... read the thread. It's posted a few messages above. sheesh!

the blinking you are seeing is probably the test select sequence. If you have the same ECU as me (small dial, red light, green light), you stick a screwdriver in the slot and turn teh dial completely one wa7 (I always forget which way, do a search or trial/error). When it blinks 3 times, turn it completely the other way. It will then flash the codes as a combo of red (tens digit) and green (ones digit) lights.

check your fuseable link at the battery and make sure it hasn't overheated and melted.

yea. Yet another reason I do nearly everything myself. At least you're not paying for the full hour if it's not used.

around here, Philadelphia suburbs, the rate is $45 per half hour.

We were driving back from a mini-vacation and the CEL came on. My wife was behind the wheel at the time while I took a little snooze :asleep: . She slammed on the brakes and ran right over onto the shoulder of the road and turned the engine off. Scared the heck outta me, coming out of a nice dream . I checked the code right there on the highway and told her what it was. blank stare. I told her that it was part of the emissions system and had to do with the post processing of exhaust gasses by the catalytic converter. blank stare. I reset the ecu codes and told her that I reprogrammed the O2 sensor so now it wouldn't be a problem. blank stare. I showed her that the CEL wasn't on anymore and told her to go to sleep while I drove the rest of the way home.

The rattle is probably a loose heat shield. There have been other threads here with similar issues. As for the sizzle.... pop the hood and get in there to look. It may be a small coolant leak spitting from a hose onto something hot. There probably isn't enough to puddle but it should be easy to find. If you can't isolate where the sound is coming from (here I go again ) Get yourself a 3 foot piece of tubing (about 1/4 I.D.) and shove one end in your ear. Use the other to probe around and it will work like one of those expensive automotive stethescopes.

Heck... I'm basically stock but have had nearly every part of my pathy taken apart at one time or another. This is what I bring to the boards. I believe MX's reply was intended to say (correct me if I'm wrong) that is someone asks about upgrades, the natural tendancy around here is to think 'offroad upgrade'. On a lowrider board, they'd think the opposite. On a psycho-performance board, they'd be talking about jet engines as an upgrade. Point is, it's all relative. If nooB's simply say 'upgrade', they get our definition (and usually a response from MX saying to use their search button ). With that said...... <cue the daydream music> jet engine.... Pathfinder.... *drool*

just another illustration of why I tell everyone I know to learn how to do things themselves. I worl with people who will pay a mechanic to replace brake pads. SHEESH!!!

while the light is on, leave your engine running, slide your passenger seat all the way forward and tilt it. Stick a little screwdriver in the slot on the ECU and turn it all the way clockwise (I think). The lights will start flashing in sequence either 1, 2, 3 or 4 times. Once it flashes 3 times, turn the dial fully the other way. It will then flash a combination of red and green lights. red is the 10's place, green is the ones. This will get you your code. If it's the O2 sensor, it's gonna flash 33 (3 red, 3 green). Then, clear the codes by turning the dial the other way, wait until it flashes 4 times, then turn it back. As a side note, I had an intermittent injector leak. The failure was detected and the light came on. I checked the code and left it failed. Over time, the thing decided that it had been operating normally for long enough and reset itself. This may be what you are experiencing.

I like that solution. I was driving back from vacation yesterday and my check engine light came on. I checked the code and found that it was bitching about my O2 sensor. Simple fix... reset the ECU. No light, runs fine.

You can find which wires are for your switch by checking the connection point under the steering column. You can also trace the wires from the relay that's screwed on your firewall. IF you are still at a loss, let me know and I'll try to find it in the service manual but, since I was just there looking at my headlight circuit, I know that it is not clearly represented since they were part of an options package.

any particular part of the wiring? I have the 94/95 service manuals but the diagrams are a multi-page foldout. If you let me know which harness (or plug location), I can scan that part for you.

Solved. The problem was a leaking battery. Here's the story... Back in 1999 (apparently, from my receipt) I bought a new battery for my truck. It was of universal fit type so it had both top posts and side terminals. Well... apparently, the positive terminal on the battery decided to start leaking The stupid board won't let me upload the pics so I'll throw them out on cardomain. (you can get at bigger pics here) Anyway... the acid dripped down and ran into the connector which is the fusable link. It proceeded to eat the metal within the connector. With the reduced ability to conduct electricity, every time I turned on my headlights, it got hot... real hot... like, melt the connector to crap hot. Because of the positioning of the connector and the fact that it was laced to the one next to it, it maintained connection (very poor connection) to the circuit. Since acid is a conductor, I was reading 12V and getting connectivity when I checked the connector on the steering column. As I said before, when I threw power to it, it would just get rid of the 12V of energy in the way of heat instead of making the trip to the lights. I cut away all the bad stuff, dumped a bunch of baking soda in the engine compartment to neutralize the acid that was currently eating at other things (like the high pressure line for the AC) and did some quick soldering. Threw in a new battery and we're good as new. more pics (sorry for the focus issue) the melted connector Notice the 3 wires (the fusable link) that fell out of the connector threw baking soda on it... copper fizz!

In metric 8.8 means Grade5 and 10.9 means grade8

Ok guys, this one has me baffled. A few days ago I noticed that both my headlights were out. As it was getting dark, I decided to throw on my fogs so I had at least some hope of seeing. Nothing there either. Additionally, the little indicator light on the console that saus your fogs are on was not illuminated. Marker lights come on fine and turn signals work fine. Checked the pair of 15A fuses on the side of the engine compartment and they are both fine. Naturally, I thought it was the combination switch which was listed as one of the common problems. I pulled it out real quick and checked the pin to pin connectivity in all positions and it all matched the diagram in the service manual. I threw a meter on the plug hanging from the steering column and I got 12V where I was supposed to. Around 11 last night, I got tired of the mosquitoes eating me alive and made one last check. I grabbed my ohmmeter, pulled the front right headlight bulb and checked the plug. 3 wires (matches diagram) Black should be ground.... checked that.... yup. Red w/ black should run to the combo switch (which was still laying on my bench). Checked that to ground... nope (that's good) Checked it to the connector on my column... yup. that's where she goes. Red w/ yellow should also run to the switch but when I checked it to ground.... BEEP! I should have checked to see if it had connectivity to the connector or if the connector was to ground (shouldn't be, I don't think) but it was late and I get up early for work. Anyone else have a similar issue? Any guesses on where to look for the short (if that's truely my problem)? Any ideas why, if there was a short to ground on that wire, would it affect both headlights and foglights? Thought I'd ask here first before tearing into the main harness and trying to trace the circuit. On a funny note, it looks like someone tried to steal my truck. The column cover is off and laying on the floor, plugs and things are dangling down, etc