k9sar

just 'stirrin the pot', so to speak. The board has been a bit quiet lately. Heck, it's not like I'm taking open shots at all those texas lowlifes out there. That's be like huntin' a hamster with a 12-gauge.

Reach for the sky!!!

I guess 88's still :asleep: Oh well... another wasted shot across the bow.

probably the previous owner got tired of replacing it and frellin' around with ones that didn't work.

with my luck, I'd be out reading the note and someone would jump in my pathy and take off.

Ya gotta remember that everytime you take your pathy into a place like that, you are trusting it to a bunch of low-life grubbies making min wage who don't give a crap about your vehicle. These are probably guys who couldn't get hired at the local McDonalds because they couldn't be trained to flip a burger. Oh well... it's not like they work for the cable company or anything. That'd really be scraping the bottom of the barrel.

just a minor difference.

that's just wrong.

check out this thread... it contains some info of things to look for before tearing out the entire tranny for a rebuild/replacement. Link

He's not real handy. My guess is he bought it just to kill the snake.

My brother in San Diego heard a strange hissing noise coming from under his car. Turns out it was a simple problem to resolve...

important point here... many people think it's a no-brainer but I certainly wouldn't want to be responsible for someone cooking themselves. leave the cap off while you run the engine to temp. If you have it on and then try to open it hot, you could get seriously injured. My wife's uncle apparently had no brain and has the scarring to prove it.

You may have a bad coil wire. If the resistance is too high or you have a bad connection at the distributer, getting the thing wet will allow the thing to spark to the nearest ground rather than to the distributer. Have someone try to start it while you stick your head under the hood. IF it's shorting to the block, you'll probably hear a noticeable ticking as it arcs. IF you do it at night, you may even be able to see it. You could also remove the coil wire from the dist and put the end near the block. Crank it over to see if you are getting spark at the distributer end of the wire.

my point was that you are not going to 'cook' anything if your thermo is stuck OPEN. Stuck OPEN = may not reach op temp quickly or at all (no big deal) Stuck CLOSED = Fry your engine

an open thermo only has an effect when first starting or running in the winter. The function is to get the block up to temp soon after you start so it runs most efficiently and allows you to get some heat in the truck on those cold mornings. When it hits a certain temp, the thermo opens, allowing the temp to stabalize with cooling through the rad. IF you have a bad thermo, you can simply throw it away and don't put one back in (you'll need a gasket for the housing, though). Your engine will get no hotter than normal unless your thermo is stuck in the closed position and does not allow flow through the rad.

true... true and true. I'm just lazy and have not had a problem yet. The only time I actually had to hit TDC was a buddy who broke his belt and got everything out-of-whack. Had to rely on the marks at that point. :-)

When I did mine, I ignored TDC (which is where those little marks line up on the housing) and simply marked the pulley's and timing belt with a dot of white-out or similar stuff. You can even replace the timing belt this way as long as you transfer the marks from the old belt to the new before you align it and slip it on. As long as you are careful, you should be ok.

I have always heard that ceramic pads are better for dust reduction and heat dissapation (sp?) but the new rotors will help that. ACDelco sells a set for about 80 - 90 dollars. Not a fan of ACDelco products but I don't know who else makes them since I stick with the el-cheapos.

what about a repair... check these guys out Might be worth a call

nice rotors... where'd ya get them? As for pads, I throw on the local cheap junk at about $20 a pop (I think they're Raybestos) but I replace them every couple years.

A nice coating of high-temp grease will keep the dust down too.

The most straightforward way is to simply run your lights through a switch from a fused line and completely bypass the 'headlight' circuit. That way you can turn them on/off whenever you want. As for down-sides... I know that in PA it's completely illegal to do it. I think you get slapped with a wet noodle and a fine if it's discovered.

My 3 year old gets his first crack at sailing on the weekend of July 4. We're sailing down to Penn's Landing in Phila to watch the fireworks from the boat. We typically anchor about 200 yards from the barge that launches them and just lay on the deck and look straight up. No crowds, no traffic, etc.

Here's a pic of my cup-holder (and my oldest son)

been there... done that. I used to have a pair of vice-grips in the back end to clamp on the strut. It scored the shaft a little and screwed up the seal but I figured, what the heck, they don't hold the hatch up as it is anyway.