Slick

5W-30 (cali)

i am surrounded by pyromaniacs.......

i prefer fram filters over anything else. and i have tried a few. i use the fram tough guard filter. TG8A (i have the oil filter relocation kit). i have never been crazy enough to spend 3 times the money on a nissan oil filter. i switched to synthetic in my jeep.. expensive crap. wish i hadn't. they say once you go synthetic, you can't go back. i do 45 freeway miles everyday, and on days off 5 in town.... so far the only motor trouble i have had has been existing issues from when i bought it and a head gasket finally giving out. block has always looked good and no signs of excessive wear anywhere. i have 3 motors (2 trucks), all run on the same thing.. 143K, 200K and 190K funny enough.. it's the original motor i bought mini me with, that ahs the lowest mileage and the most problems..... and it is now sitting in the garage to be "juiced up"

i'm with JJ on this one fer sure

ahh.. it's a '04.... then your bleeder/burper may not be in the same place, i have a 91 & 92 pathys. either the coolant is not flowing through the block at all (h2o pump) or there is air in the rad.... let us know what happens

are you kidding me? lmao.

bleeder is visible here: (please see black arrow to right) (that's on my '92's motor)

burp the radiator. tell your "guys" that these are pressurized rads so they need to leave the radiator cap ON and open up the bleeder valce a bit and burp her while running until she stops burping.... i live in Lathrop (near stockton) and work at u haul in modesto.. bring yer pathy by one day when yer passing through! -bounce-

that's great!!!!!! lmao!

a hint of what 4"SL WITH A 3" BL looks like.. on 33'S. (15X 10 RIMS) (king caca) \ and a JGC coil conversion with t bar cranked on 29's.. the JGC's gave me 3 1/2" of lift in the rear... here mini me is with 29's before i got the 31's.. vurry cheesy.... the before n afters.. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a77/Slick.../pathyafter.jpg (BIG pic)

scams or "power chips"?

sssh didn't he say it has 65K ORIGINAL miles? i see 105K miles (or is that KM?)on the odo....... but damn sweet ass truck fer sure.. mmmmmm......... yesssssss :bow:

not if the gears are shot, but yes, mine had a whine/clunk. fresh gear oil and all is well (i have the LSD on both trucks) did whoever told you the gears were shot actually open up/remove the diff cover and LOOK? or are they guessing?

do you have the LSD or open? when was the last time you checked the gear oil in it? does it have the correct gear oil? all suspension components tight down there and to spec torque?

stop whoring you two. sheesh. sorry EL P.. i have none of the above mentioned goodies..... but i have pics of my smitty lol

welp.. i have the trail master 4" susp lift and an unknown 3" body lift on king caca.. calmini are expensive but strong, trail master have been rated as one of the best, a/c have been rated as one of the cheapest/most economical..... and pretty much a case of.. a body lift is a body lift. just remember to check pricing to parts supplied with a BL.. most don't supply the radiator drop bracket.... and i have the JGC coil conversion on mini me. great bit of lift fer under $200 (that includes the rancho 5000 shocks too)

well, run it and see what happens as far as the codes. it may come back after a while. yeah, if it's not leaking in the fins, the jb weld may work. i am a devout hater of the stop leak crap, as the mess bars leak made of my poor pathy's original motor was no joke. blocked it up like a constipated woman. not pretty. I will never use that stuff again! or anything like it.

oh the horror of the thought of stop leak! ahhhhhhhhhhhhh.. if it is leaking, it will only get worse, reair if possible or renew. try to find exactly where it's leaking, if it is between the metal top and the fins, you may be able to quick fix with some JB weld. yes, a bad o2 sensor can make a pathy run like ass for sure. is the ECU throwing codes? or a garage told you it's bad? or your pathy is just running rough so yer guessing? if you're guessing, don't. o2 sensors are NOT cheap......

yeah. just ask me.. on the top of my x mas list is the L & P stage 3 steering upgrade for king caca..... and as B said..... you can do a BL and get away with stock tires.. but you won't want to keep it like that long. save a bit more n get tires/wheels too.

i popped the cv's and cross member....... splat. out everything came. took less than 1/2hr (if you knew my truck. that's a 5 min job for anyone else) i have a 5 speed (ok, i have an auto too but i am talking about my 5 speed) pulled the motor 1 hr later worth $130 if that's really the issue.

i dunno exactly what the R50's look like underneath, but i had a sop install aFM 50 series and 2.5" pipe through and had him bend allt he pipe si it sat higher and had a better ground clearance/shape to it .. welcome to costifornia..... $400 for everything.

awesome1 glad you got er all fixed n happy now! -bounce-

hello and welcome -bounce- *yawns* sorry, too lazy to post anything that makes sense right now.. it will just have to wait til morning

:o daaaaaaaaamn that sux! you haven't had that truck long either! bummer, but i am glad you (and your passengers if any) are ok. -bounce- awesome yer gunna get another pathy! :cool2: