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Precise1

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Posts posted by Precise1

    err.....throttle stop screw

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Well, the throttle stop most definitely contacts while hot, running or not so I measured the distance that the screw protrudes. .100" or 2.5mm or just on the minum side of that; I had to eyeball it with a machinist's rule since I couldn't get caliper jaws in there. The last bit of info, mostly for reference is the gap when cold, I'll try to get that today.

    I'm wondering if getting voltage readings from the TSP hot and cold would tell anything, or even vacuum, but then there are so many things that go on with vacuum when cold, it might be meaningless even if there is a difference...

     

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    Pathfinder & Jiffy Lube Not Good

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    For $40 they change your oil, get rid of the waste junk, clean your windows, make sure all your lights work, top off your windshield washer tank (unlimited refills btw, you just have to stop in!), vacuum the floorboards, and on my truck they always checked the diff and tc oil levels, and I got to sit in their nice warm space and read car magazines I wouldn't normally see. I mean, really... who wouldn't?

    Me.

     

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    Vacuum Lines/Hoses ?

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by Precise1

    One thing that can be helpful (and cheap and easy) before you start chasing things, is check the ECU for stored trouble codes. Sometimes it can point you to a faulty component. There is a good write up in the Garage/How To section.

     

    And significant loss of vacuum anywhere is a problem so it is hard to just say "replace line X", not to mention the stalling could be due to other things. It probably can't hurt to change the lines regardless; 20 year old rubber lines aren't always in good shape.

     

    B

     

    I see we have been here before. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/41312-pathfinder-jiffy-lube-not-good/?p=770740

    Did you check the ECU as suggested then?

    Need help with diagnosing clutch problem

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Yes, to bench bleeding the MC, it does sound like there is a considerable air bubble, and can make it act like you describe.

     

    The slave cylinder presses against a fork that goes through the bell housing, and pushes on the throw out bearing/pressure plate to disengage the clutch. Are you certain the slave cylinder is exactly the same with the same distance of throw/travel from the mounting bolt holes. Hopefully you ccan compare it to the old part (I never throw away old parts until I know everything is working properly).

    Without doing anything else, if you crack the bleeding nipple on the SS, does any fluid come out, like there is some residual pressure? Does the slave cylinder relax or retract?

    Most importantly, once you have done, this is there a little play in that fork pivot, like it isn't under load?

     

    Also don't drive it like this unless you want to risk glazing the flywheel and clutch plate.

     

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    • Like 1

    err.....throttle stop screw

    in The Garage

    Posted

    OK, I got a chance to go out and look, and I get it now, sorry for the previous confusion. 3 different adjustment screws... :rolleyes:

    Anyway, it is the one on the top left of that whole system, and mine is secured with a lock nut and painted red.

    First, how much did he turn it? Is it possible to just try to get the paint to line up again and determining the depth of the screw by and residual paint/no paint on the root of the threads?

    Second, I've checked nine on a 1999.0 off and running, even operating the throttle, and the screw isn't even in contact with the stop by about .7-.8mm. I will double check this at hot off and running conditions tomorrow when I drive it. I can get accurate measurements for the gap rather than a guesstimate and for a lack of anything else, you just set yours there and see... :shrug:

    Just let me know...

     

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    Spark plugs

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Damn, you Canadians get ripped off a lot!

    $2.50 per plug for NGK standard

    $3.00 per plug for NGK V Power

    $3.50 per plug for NGK G Power

     

    So yeah, I'm way off. It's $3 more for G power over V power, yo!

    I figure since they get changed every 60k miles or whatever, spark plugs aren't a pricey component, much less the little cost difference in grades.

    Last time I bought plugs, the person asked me if I wanted Champion plugs and I told him no, I needed plugs for a Nissan, not a lawnmower...

     

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    • Like 1

    Pathfinder & Jiffy Lube Not Good

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    Hard to say, but sounds like a possible fuel issue as well; the fuel lines are right there on the frame by the filter. Not sure what they could have done, but never underestimate the power of stupidity.

    A definite yes to check the vacuum lines as well. Also, it can't hurt to check the ECU for stored codes, sometimes that can pinpoint things.

     

    Like others, I do 98% of my own work because of problems (and outright lies) in the past. I once took my D720 in for an oil change just before a smog test, and the tech actually disconnected the lead to the alternator, so the vehicle wasn't charging. I caught it within a few miles because it had a volt meter gauge, reconnected it and drove back. Funny thing was that I told the owner, showed him on the vehicle when he said "The tech wasn't anywhere near the alternator" since you have to reach right past it, and the whole time he was denying it even though I told him I didn't want anything, I just wanted him to make sure his techs were more careful because it would strand most people.

    Well, the business was gone within a year...

     

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    Spark plugs

    in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    LOL That about covers it...

     

    I go with the G power, they are supposed to last a little longer, stay cleaner and help with emissions. Not sure if that is actually true, but I can afford the extra $5-8 it costs for a set, so...

     

    B

    err.....throttle stop screw

    in The Garage

    Posted

    OK. Not sure what Crapatalk has to do with it, but whatever.

    So, page EC-34 has an adjustment procedure for the FIC (Fast Idle Cam) in the 1998 FSM. I'd download the 2000 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section, look that up, and follow it. Seems pretty straight forward...

     

    B

    Not a newb..

    in New People Start Here!

    Posted

    Damn, sounds like a harsh lesson, but then I think you have the right attitude. Sometimes you just have to stand back and say "Well, that didn't work!" (admit failure) to learn from it. As for people you thought were your friends, don't feel alone; been there myself...

     

    Anyway, welcome back and you might find some good info (share some as well) in the Hardcore Custom Fab section. ;)

     

    B

    New 93 XE in the CA foothills.

    in New People Start Here!

    Posted

    Good deal? $800. Didn't feel like a deal for a few weeks, but now I'm coming around.

     

    The locksmith was a mobile guy who came to the car before I drove it away. don't know what he did, but the ignition keys don't turn in the cylinder. I heard you need to give Nissan the cylinder number from the door lock itself.

     

    Did the timing belt last weekend, thanks. So many parts dont fit when you buy them, but that's another forum topic. (the rock auto belt didn't fit, had to get a NAPA like what was in there. No problems. 2 of the 3 radiator hoses were nowhere near the right part, etc.)

     

    I found a 93 FSM on that clio something site. Thanks for the encouragement.

    Considering a fairly straight body, no rust (I'm assuming) and that you should get another 100k miles at least, I'd say that was reasonable. Once you get things sorted out, I'm sure you'll like it... ;)

     

    Yeah, who knows... I had a locksmith come out and make me a new key to a car once; he did it by putting a blank into the drivers side door, jiggling it, looking at the printing on the metal, and filing it. Took him about 20 minutes, but it worked in every lock. Pretty neat, and after watching him, I think I understand how to do it. Never been that bored though...

     

    Glad you took care of the T-belt right away, too many people ignore it. Did Rock Auto send you the wrong parts or did you order the wrong parts? That sucks regardless, I hate being into a job and not have what I need.

     

    Can you provide a link to that '93 FSM? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested; '94 has been the earliest free, digital version available so far...

     

    B

    New 93 XE in the CA foothills.

    in New People Start Here!

    Posted

    Welcome, and wow, someone beat the tar out of that poor Pathfinder! I hope you got a good deal on it...

     

    thanks, I will definitely be pestering you folks.

     

    who's the expert on the door electronics? any good threads on the front door windows going up and down, but not the back?

    Also, the locks dont work at all. Do you need to get to the lock cylinder to tell Nissan what key you need, or can they use the VIN?

     

     

    we will be doing the timing belt Saturday. What's the best thread on that one? any gotchas?

     

    One more. Is it true that you need to get a front end alignment done at a Nissan dealer?

     

    thanks

     

    Crab

    Maybe someone changed the ignition lock so the key for the doors and ignition are completely different? Did the locksmith actually try making a key just for the drivers side lock?

    FYI, someone is parting out a 1995 in Sacramento, maybe you can get the full set of locks/ignition from him? Maybe some other parts as well? There are some differences between the '93 and the '95 (mainly trim/interior) but most parts should be the same; double check compatibility with a parts web site like Rock Auto, Autozone, etc.

     

    There is a good thread on the timing belt in the Garage/How To section. Can't miss it...

     

     

     

    as far as the windows and doors go, I have a multi-tester and limited knowledge of how it works. Any good links to circuit basics on a vehicle?

     

    Also, I tried to remove one door panel and promptly popped the clip through the hardboard. Any threads on removing door panels with destroying anything?

     

    Thanks again.

    Download the 1994 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. Not all the wiring will be the same (as stated above), but things like door regulators, etc should be.

     

    I'm not sure, search for it. I'm not help, I hate interior work because I'm the 'destroy all the clips' guy...

     

    B

    Looking for a Bushguard/Push Bar

    in New People Start Here!

    Posted

    Welcome to NPORA Bud!

     

    Your best bet would probably be local junk yards/U-pull-it places. A lot of pathfinders came with what you are talking about, but be warned, we call them damage amplifiers. They are only really mounted from underneath, so in an accident, they tend to fold back and take out the entire grill, headlights, hood, etc. Under normal use, they do work fine though, so you might want to look into some bracing modifications...

     

    Oh, look in the classifieds section here, there might be someone nearby parting out a Pathfinder...

     

    B

    Have you checked your bushings?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Get a hold of Alkorahil (aka Rob Lacy), he runs an online dealership parts department out of Texas, knows his stuff, and has just about the best prices you can find for factory Nissan parts. Talk to him and it'll all show up in one big box... ;)

    Contact info is in the Classifieds/Services section towards the bottom of the main forum page, and tell him NPORA says Hi!

     

    B

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