Precise1
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Posts posted by Precise1
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Welcome to NPORA!
Sorry to hear about the demise of your X, but hey, it's only metal and both of you were alright...
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Click on the banner in his signature, it will take you to his web site. Different prices for different heights...
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Went to CT in Amherst, bought a new rotor and fab myself, a lot of freehand involved
Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
Unfortunately, it looks like it...
(aluminum beavers raped your rims)
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Can't tell from here...
I talked to a fellah who has a large lathe and he said 4 hours, $40/hr
Sent from my MotoG3 using TapatalkAs a machinist, I wonder what he would be doing those last 2-3 hours. I'd say .5 hours to figure out the first piece mounting, and .25 hours for each rim after that. He totally overestimated the work/time...
A mill with a boring head or rotary table would work also.
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^Exactly!
We have a 1999.0 as well, old front and VG33 (which is why I always specify that and often buy parts for a 1998 so there is no mid year confusion). The VG33 was used in 1996-2000 Pathfinders...
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Is there any benefit to with 16" or 17" wheels over 15" wheels?
As was stated, it depends on the usage. Which are you asking about?
When you depart from the 15" rim, you generally leave the high flotation sizes behind...
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Good to know.
What filter do you use?
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Welcome Ray!
Trust me, all the info you need is here... a 2" lift is pretty darn easy, made easier by fleurys products as well. There are other options, so look at them all and decide what is best for you.
We have a white on white R50 as well, but a 1990.0 SE (pre facelift)
FYI, 2001-2004 has the VQ35, so you can have your R50 and VQ too...
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1) Sorry, beyond my experience to verify.
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Well, I don't think it will hurt it, as long as you live in warmer climes at least. It might be a bit thick for snow country...
I used 80w-90 in mine with a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer and on cold mornings (near/or freezing), first/second gear was a bit stiff to engage for the first mile or two.
YMMV
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From what you said, do it...
Good luck!
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Sounds like it has been handled well so far...
1) Those bearings/seals should be checked when the tranny is being rebuilt, or simply replaced as part of a kit on principle...
2) When you do the timing belt (105k mile interval for your year) there are other things you can change as well. Since it is over 100k miles, I tend to change everything...
cam seals
crank seal
timing belt
tensioner
thermostat
bypass hose
water pump
fan clutch
Basically, I don't want to touch anything there until the next timing belt change. IIRC, parts for everything cost me under $400 via Alkorahil
3) I just went with the stock Nissan clutch. They last about 150k miles with normal use and are made by Exedy.
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Are you asking what parts they have in common/can be interchanged? If so...
All suspension, drive train, exhaust, transmission, motors and most gross components like starters, alternators, etc.
What is going to be different is the trim, dash, some electronic and mechanical components like ECU, injectors, timing belt, tie rod ends, etc.
What are you hoping to do?
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Well, AFAIK you will have to change the motor, tranny, wiring harness, all under hood components, ecu, etc. That's a lot of work...
Maybe I'm missing something, but why not just drive the 1994? It sounds superior in every way...
Even if you want to keep the 88, just have the motor rebuilt (or do it yourself). When both are running, you can reassess which to sell, if any. I'm certain either way you won't be losing any $...
(wish I had a dual fuel set up)
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Bah, the only difference between a SE and XE is leather seats and the adjustable shocks, everything else can come on a XE or be swapped in.easily.
240k is definitely getting on in mileage, but over 500k is the record that I have seen (without major engine work) so it isn't dead yet by a long shot!
Shifting issues might not mean the tranny is toast, so I'd at least check it out. If everything else is solid, $1k isn't much to risk. Can you buy any local wrecked WD21s for engines or trannys?
It really comes down to what it's value is to you, and if you know the rest of the vehicle is solid. A different one might have hidden issues...
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Welcome to NPORA Bud! Thanks for joining and for the intro, member participation is what keeps this place alive. Well, that and the fact Pathfinders last so damn long...
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Stock version? Too bad you aren't closer, I have 2...
Welcome to NPORA BTW!
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Yeah... kinda looks like it is falling off...
It won't fit underneath?
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Precise1 hit the nail on the head. I'm wondering more how the tires will wear on the highway on the skinner 15x6 wheels. Hate to drop 600-700 dollars on tires only to burn them up in 20k miles
It won't damage the tires that fast, if at all. I put about 30+k miles on my first pathfinder, and they were mounted and somewhat used when I bought it, so figure 40-50k miles on them. When I got rid of it, the tires weren't quite down to the wear bars and the wear was close to even, maybe only a little more in the center.
I'm not sure what happens when you air down though...
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They are the tires in my sig picture...
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I'm certain he is talking about the rim width... I want to say the stock chromies (that came with 235/75/15) are 6" wide and the alloy 'legos' that came on the SE with 31x10.5" tires are 7" wide. Those numbers can be verified by searching around this site.
I had 31" BFG A/T on my first Pathy with the chromies, but IMO they were a little pinched. It'll work, and others have done it, but BFG recommends 7-9" rims for their 31x10.5"
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I have not heard of them, but I also haven't looked into the topic.
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Well, a VG33 is a factory VG30 with 10% more displacement, so most people just start there. I'm sure there are some companies that build them (Mr510 in Washington I believe), but if you are swapping in a used VG33, you would change the timing belt and seals. You have to remove the cam pulleys to change the seals, and since you would have to swap over all the VG30 furniture, to change the cams is just valve covers and keepers. Not really 'building' a motor in my book...
Do what ever you want, obviously, but it seems like you are making things more complicated than they need to be. The stock VGs run a long time, so finding a used one isn't really much of a gamble.
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The VG34 is a chimera. VG33 block bored over with VQ45 pistons and valve reliefs cut into the piston domes, can't recall what cam/valve/injector mods... Nice motor, but not remotely stock, and in the other thread, you said you wanted a relatively stock motor. The VG34 is a built motor...
Want to keep it stock and still scoot?
The 3.3 L (3,275 cc) VG33ER is a supercharged version of the VG33, and produces 210 hp (157 kW) at 4,800 rpm with 246 lb·ft (334 N·m) of torque at 2,800 rpm.
It is used in the following vehicles:
- 2001–2004 Nissan Frontier SC
- 2002–2004 Nissan Xterra SC
Going to take some harness and ECU work though...
You can always slap on a turbo and get over 300hp.
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Yep, I got a Nissan clutch through Alkorahil (Rob Lacy) and it was so much softer/smoother, I had to learn how to drive the truck again. Don't worry, it'll slowly stiffen up over the next year...
Congrats BTW!
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another FNG in Colorado
in New People Start Here!
Posted
You learn (and move) fast. That's a nice change...
When you put the rear springs in, you might be able to do it simply by disconnecting the shocks and sway bar, supporting the pathy by the frame (fairly high) and articulating the rear axle with a jack. You might want to take the tires off as well, and watch your brake lines...
Before you install, I recommend measuring all 4 corners to the body crease, then after. That way you know how much lift you achieved, if you are level, if your front went up or down, etc.
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