Precise1
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Posts posted by Precise1
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^Agreed.
That's your idler arm. Connects to the steering centerlink, mirrors the motion of the power steering pump and pitman arm.
No bushings, instead a ball joint and some bearings.
Not true. There are two plastic bushings (IIRC) that can be replaced in the idler arm.
Mark... do you look at any of the expanded views in the free, downloadable Factory Service Manual? You really should be able to determine this...
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So... If I read that correctly, you got your truck stuck, dug it out and now it doesn't accelerate properly, like there is something wrong with the tranny? You can stop it, shift to park, then drive and proceed?
1) Don't drive it like that
2) What is the transmission fluid like (when was the last time it was changed)
3) Make sure the shifter cable/linkage/arm is not blocked with debris
4) Have someone check for tranny cooler blockage (bottom of the radiator)
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Err... His info shows a 1994 which is WD21 (frame included), not R50 unibody. Good points otherwise though!
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Get her a 2004 LE and she'll leave your 2001 alone...
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FSM? "Fail Safe Manual"??? Just a guess....
Factory Service Manual. Your new bible...
No need to google search, the link is the first one pinned in this thread, in the Garage section...
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26616-factory-service-manuals/
I believe the EC section is the one you want for the IACV, but look up the error code P0505 and follow the diagnostics exactly. This is the same manual a Nissan mechanic would use, so don't interpret it, just follow it. The OBD2 system is very specific about what is going on, so if two previous owners and their mechanics couldn't figure it out, someone wasn't trying or someone was lying...
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^This. The ARB modification for height isn't a hard one, but it does require some cutting/welding. As an ARB owner, I think they make a great product, and I also think they are a bit overpriced. I'd recommend having one made locally at a 4x4 fab shop or take a gamble with the TAG units (I have no experience with them).
This thread might help. I'll dimension what I have, and I'm due to finish up take-2 and get the bumper out of the garage in the next month...
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You are asking all the right questions...
I was up until late last night cleaning carpets instead of working on pathfinder. Life calls.
Ouch, that was a mess! Someone needs a little behavior modification...
Sounds like you know dogs, so patience and good luck. Good job taking him in, I hate people who mistreat others (animals included)
So do you guys suggest putting a small tacky layer of RTV down behind gasket of RMS housing and also on the housing itself? What about for the oil pan seal?
I have the regular black RTV gasket maker and the high heat stuff.OK, what you really want here is the most oil resistant, with some heat resistance as well. IIRC, the black is the most oil resistant, but read the application chart on the back, it will tell you. The Ultra Copper is for high heat; I used it on my headers/Y pipe with great success, but it might not be the best for the RMS.
Do go with Permatex brand though, I've used their products for decades and have never been let down as long as I used it properly...
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Thanks for covering the Crapatalk issue guys. Also, HBrandon, please don't create multiple threads about the same issue either. I know you are frustrated, but all that does is confuse any answers given and makes future searches for information difficult.
So on to the matter... Rule of law for firing is air, fuel, spark, compression and timing. You have confirmed the first 3, so compression and timing are next.
Compression check is easy enough, I'll assume you know how to do that, I just don't see it mentioned that you have done it.
Timing... You had the timing belt off, are you certain you put it back on correctly?
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Consider on line options... It isn't too late to have it shipped to you; the last thing that goes back on is the shifter, so it shouldn't hold you back...
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^Exactly... Although I only bought 5.
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MY1PATH is correct. You drain the old oil, leave the fill plug alone (it no longer has any role) and overfill it through the shifter hole, and leave it.
IIRC, I put 4 quarts of 80w90 GL4 ONLY and one quart of Lucas oil stabilizer in my old 1995, and that seemed to work fine. I recall first gear was a little stiff on freezing mornings for the first mile, but a little wiggle and push would get it into gear every time, and no issues what so ever once it warmed up slightly.
The recommended replacement interval is every 30k miles, so don't bother changing it before that or at least 5 years. The tranny will be fine, it is spec'd for that oil.
The brakes probably just need a fluid flush and bleed, try that first. If it ain't broke...
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I light up the tires.
(I'm sorry I couldn't resist.)
Yeah, but you aren't even remotely stock either...
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Well, AC (Automotive Customizers) has bushings, both solid that need to be pressed in, and a split 2 piece design that is easy to install.
Rugged Rocks has some hard core after market replacements: https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/19851995-wd21-pathfinder-suspension-components-c-38_1321_593.html?osCsid=nvjtu127j56gheasq1l27iov91
I can't think of where to buy them other than FactoryNissanParts, and the bushings are sold separate, so that isn't any gain. http://www.factorynissanparts.com/parts/1995/Nissan/Pathfinder/XE?siteid=214081&vehicleid=92803&diagram=3615161
Maybe someone else will chime in, but I know some people have gotten spare arms from junkyards and either swapped out the bushings at their leisure, or took them to a shop the have them replaced...
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Good info from MY1PATH, and it sounds like you are on the right track.
One thing you might want to do though is change that tranny fluid while it is out, or at least before you fully install it again. Reason being, you want to fill it with 5.1 liters of fluid, not the 3.whatever that is the norm from the factory; this addresses possible bearing starvation issues. Obviously, the fill plug position won't allow that, so the common method is to 'overfill' the tranny through the shifter hole. No point in putting it all back together, only to have to pull the shifter out again to properly fill the tranny when you change the oil. You can leave the transfer case for later, but that is easier done when it is out as well...
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What are you trying to do with the rear control arms? Replace them, or just the bushings?
Yes, they are fairly gutless; 2+ tons and 150hp/180ftlbs torque. The only reason they move at all is gearing, but then they weren't built to win races either.
Yes, you can swap in some other VG motors, but IIRC the z31 version has different heads and is too wide to fit without modifications (verify that, the info is here). If you want more power, make sure your motor is tuned properly, is in good shape, install aftermarket air filter and exhaust system with headers and that is about as good as it gets without swapping motors.
If you swap motors, go straight to the VG33 with 170hp/200ftlbs torque. That motor coupled with good intake, exhaust and VH30 cams (more aggressive) will net higher numbers, and then there is the option to build a vg34 (again, info is here).
Honestly, my stock 1995 VG30 with headers/exhaust and 31" tires is fine for me unless I'm loaded and in high altitude, which is rare. It is a tough little 4x4, I don't expect it to light up the tires or post numbers in the 1/4 mile...
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The last time I asked people for help changing my clutch, I remember getting no help and bear-hugging a transmission off, and back onto, the engine (2wd Frontier). I wish you luck!
One way I usually confirm a leak's location is to completely degrease, scrape, and clean the area, then wait. As B mentioned (and I agree), some of those spots look old. I see the shiny spot you're talking about (and what appears to be a drip on the pivot) and the only reason for suggesting it was coming from above is because that pivot appears to be over an inch wide and round, so it's just collecting anything above it. If you remove the baffle on top the of the transmission tunnel that goes around the shifters, you should have line-of-sight to the boot. If it's greasy on top, the boot is your culprit.
I dropped a WD21 manual tranny by myself, but I rented a tranny jack to do it.
Agreed, clean the area as well as you can with a rag and maybe some simple green. You don't need it perfect, just no drips and anything soft should come off as well. Then see what happens,,,
As MY1PATH said, that is just a boss for a pivot, and yes, it does appear the leak is coming from above since the bottom of the boot appears wet and well, and the transfer case isn't pressurized, so it isn't as though any fluid would spray out/up.
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Well, Firestone in this area has no issue with lifted Pathfinders either, but generally, you are correct.
Accidentally posted twice due to weird error I got using the app. Sorry! Feel free to delete if anyone has that capability....
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI deleted it, and yes, don't believe Crappatalk. It lies to you...
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That is the transfer case, right? It looks like the seal for that pivot/input shaft is leaking. I have no idea how easy it is to replace, if you have to crack the case, etc. It might be as easy as to remove that top plate to access it. At this point, I'd refer you to the FSM and expanded view drawings.
Was the Pathy leaving drips when parked? A lot of that looks to be quite old actually...
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Yes. The wiring harness around the engine, but specifically the connectors like at the temp sensors, MAF, TPS, ETC...
Not hard to do, costs nothing, but is just one more thing you are ruling out. Check for loose pins as well as wires and corrosion.
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Agreed, the slide back method really only works if you are just replacing the clutch parts, hard to remove the flywheel and get to the seal properly that way. The good news is that you can just drop the tranny, slide it back as far as you can, then over to one side. That should give you enough room...
Again, that tranny is heavy, so be careful and have someone help with it. I recommend sourcing a tranny jack, or at least a couple of full sized floor jacks, preferably with a tranny adapter. The offset transfer case will make it want to roll that direction so be prepared.
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If it is that inconsistent, it is probably sensor/wiring in nature. Vacuum leaks and fuel issues generally aren't intermittent.
Might want to go through the sensor connectors looking for corrosion or loose wires...
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Thank you, saved me a look!
For clarification, the moly grease I was talking about was for the T-bar splines...
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Not necessarily necessary. I bought an R50 4+ years ago and an injector failed in the first year. I bought a full, used, replacement set from a wrecker (same color code) and only changed the one. Not a problem since, with the replacement or the 5 original. Do what ever makes you comfortable, but my attitude is this: If the injector is on the driver side, needing the plenum removed, replace all 3 when you are there (keep and label the working spares). If it is on the passenger side and easy to get to, just replace the faulty one.
Regardless, make sure to replace both O-rings for each injector, and lube them (and the socket) with a little gas before you install to make sure they slide and don't get pinched.
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You are welcome Bud, been there...
The grease for the splines could be any high pressure/moly grease AFAIC, just like chassis/drive train grease. You just want to make sure it can slide, but still be packed enough not to allow any water/salt intrusion.
I'm not sure what grease is recommended for the TOB/splines, it has been 10 years since the last time. I'll have to look in FSM in the morning. I do know you want to be light with the application though!
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Clutch replacement help
in The Garage
Posted
Probably not an issue so don't worry about it. Just pointing out that there isn't a 1 type fits all, hence why multiple types are made. Ultra Copper is better for exhaust, Ultra Black is better for oil, Blue is better for coolant type applications IIRC, etc. It comes down to application; beware of catchalls...
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