Precise1
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Posts posted by Precise1
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I've been on every side of this equation over the years, so...
In this case, this is a contractor I do some work for. His only vehicle, his work truck as well, was broken down about 50 miles from his house so that would have been a hell of a towing bill alone. He did say he would pay me for my efforts, but that isn't really what motivated me either. I've been stuck and screwed before, and know that a little help can go a long way. So far he bought about $150 in parts, and gave me $50 (a tank of gas and a sandwich). I'm not going to push for anything more, but will accept donations.
Now, the 20+ hours and $500 in materials owed to me that he bills against and makes a profit, that he needs to pay up soon!
My general attitude with mechanical help is "get it to my driveway, you can use my tools, I'll help with knowledge and a hand, a ride to the parts store, etc but I'll also drink beer, watch you and criticize". Still a pretty damn good deal IMO.
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Thanks guys, turns out I got bad info, but got it running anyway. I'll tell you a short story, then sum it up in 1 separate sentence for those that don't care.
Got to the truck, removed air filter box, turned it on, heard the fuel pump buzz for 4-5 seconds, it cranked just fine and then I could smell gas. It had fuel pressure and the injectors were firing. I pulled a plug wire, installed an old plug I brought, laid it on the exhaust manifold and cranked it; couldn't see any spark. Help arrived and I had them repeat that test but with them under the hood, then did the same with the coil wire to the dizzy. No spark.
I checked the power to the coil and it had 12 volts, the cap and rotor were fried and I ohm'd the pick up ring the dizzy (800 with a range of 500-1200) so that was fine. I decided it was the coil and that we needed a cap and rotor. Went to a dealership, they didn't have the coil in stock (WTF?) but gave us a NAPA part number. Talked to service to see if there was a bench test for the coil, and some nice mechanic took 2 minutes, did some multimeter magic and declared it good. Sheit...
Went to Napa, got cap and rotor and decided a fuel filter was a good idea anyway. They didn't have it, but the Napa down stream back towards the truck, so we went there. Talked to the counter guy who thought since the coil was good, maybe it was the ignition module and possibly the crank sensor. I didn't have a way to check the old module, but when I looked up the crank sensor, it said a bad one would shut down both spark AND fuel. We have gas, ergo crank sensor is good so we skipped that. Got 10% off the module because we were joking with the guy and my friend who owns the truck (and is an artist) quickly sketched the guys face on the counter with a pencil, quite well actually.
Back at the truck we install the cap/rotor and old coil, and it won't start. Install the new ignition module, and it started and ran fine. Buttoned it up and off we went...
QUICK ANSWER: Fuel was fine, it was the ignition module in the back of the dizzy.
You are right Nunya, it wasn't too hard. I now know more about old Chebby ignition than I ever wanted to. 8.5 hours and 155 miles later, another POS is back on the road. and I'm responsible...
The owner was impressed enough that he jumped on his phone and lined up a brake job for me to do for someone else next week. Great...
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Glad to be of help, sorry for the delay.
Yes, please keep is informed on how that worked out. That might be a nice mod for people who aren't ready for cylinder work, engine swap.
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Trying to help out a friend stranded on the side of the road tomorrow.
1994 Chevy Silverado 1500.
Symptoms: like it ran out of gas, but it has 1/2 tank.
Instant suspects: fuel pump, fuel filter, fuses.
Vehicle comprehension: it is OBD1, this is gonna suck...
Any input as what to expect, look for or otherwise wouldn't be known to non Chevy owners?
(stick a rag in the tank, light it and walk was already covered)
Thanks in advance.
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Yep, that is it! You got yer drivin' shaft in bassackwards, boy!
The front carrier has rounded corners where the tube joins the u joint carrier (fork?), the back are square; they appear to be equal length (forgot my rule).
Front:
Rear:
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Sorry about the delay. Of course I forgot one day, got side tracked the next, etc. Typical, I'm afraid...
Ok, so here are some pictures to show the relative spacing. I didn't measure the distance, but it is 1/2-3/4" by eyeball, if not more. I'm at somewhat of a loss as to why you would have such interference.
Two thoughts are that my cross tube seems to be well behind the U joint carrier (look at the focal distance in the second picture), so does yours stand off from the front diff farther than later years, and are your Thorleys the original, or the second Gen were they made some minor changes?
I'll be around tomorrow afternoon and will measure from the front diff to the beginning of the round section of the drive shaft, and maybe take a picture closer to our first angle for comparison.
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Welcome!
Sorry about the post edit, but this isn't the section to ask for help (it doesn't get as much traffic), and we ask that people do not double post for several reasons.
Your other post is intact, and I will respond to that this evening...
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Well, here in California we sign over the title, have a bill of sale (no witnesses required, just signatures), and the important part... release of liability. Fill out the release of liability form and submit it, no problemas amigo...
Sorry you are getting worked over with this, it is unfortunate the number of dirtbags there are out there.
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I don't think there is enough info to accurately answer that question, even if there is a calculated answer.
Usage, speed, spring rate, shock dampening, etc...
I've heard that a lot of lifted vehicles have a rough ride due to not enough droop, meaning riding at end-of-travel and then taking full weight which makes some sense.
I think the question here is your need for ground clearance VS how likely you are to stuff/max travel 1 wheel, and how often. My observations are that the vehicles that keep their wheels on the ground do the best/have the best control, be it by articulation or droop.
If it were me, I'd start like this:
Stiff suspension 3 bump/4 droop
Soft suspension 4 bump/3 droop
and see what happens with actual usage.
Obviously, be gentle at first and have spotters so you can get some pertinent info...
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I will take some pictures for you first thing in the morning Bud. I certainly don't have that problem, but I'll have to look again to refresh myself.
What kind of front end mods are you running right now?
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So, do you have good flow?
Maybe park it in a manner that you can just put it in drive and go? Reverse needs the highest pressure and obviously uses different channels, so it might be telling to differentiate.
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Have you checked the ECU for stored fault codes (highly recommended)?
When is the last time the inline fuel filter has been changed?
The fuel pressure should stay at aprox 43psi, all the time. The fuel pressure regulator should be checked next, and there is a resistance reading for the fuel pump as well.
Since you seem pretty handy, go to the Garage section and download the Factory Service Manual from the pinned thread. IDX file is the index and EF & EC is the one with most of this information. This is your new bible...
Obviously, keep asking questions, but that same section has a good trouble shooting section that does by symptoms and what to check, and in what order.
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Do you know what would happen if I just straight piped it?
You would be breaking federal law, and being generally irresponsible.
I highly recommend you simply replace the unit with a used or aftermarket unit.
Why did it clog in the first place? That isn't normal, and if there is some root cause, it might just foul the replacement.
Have you checked the OBD2 system for any codes?
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I'm assuming it is an automatic transmission...
How is the fluid level and condition?
Are you getting flow through the stock cooler (bottom of the radiator)?
Does it only do it when you are go in reverse first, then forward in drive?
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It should be interesting to see what capabilities/products you evolve to...
As always, good luck and I'll help if I can.
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That is a lot more than I got. Before the Warn hubs my best highway mpg was 18, after the Warn hubs once I got 21 but mostly it is 19 1/2 - 20 1/2 unless there is a strong head wind in which case it can be a lot less.
Agreed. I put Mile Markers on out 1999.0 and highway went from 18 to 20mpg, all else being normal.
Yes, it does make the steering feel better (lighter) to me, and you have the added bonus of not wearing out your CVs/boots. It is a best-bang-for-buck for any R50 owner,,,
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Ahh, got it...
Have the alty load tested? As long as the battery is decent, the winch load shouldn't stall the motor.
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The problem with fender flares is that they will actually make it rust faster as they tend to pick up and hold onto a LOT of crap when you're driving around. Getting mud and dirt from out of there is a huge pain in the ass.
Unfortunately after I purchased my R50, I noticed a tiny rust spot on the drivers side rear fender, when I removed the flare, it removed most of the body it was attached to. I gently hand sanded the ever-living-@!*% out of it, then washed it, then treated it with some Por-15 which is probably the best rust converter on the market.
Aside from cutting it out and replacing the rusted parts, there is little you can do. Any rust converter will only delay the inevitable.
I would like to point out that it isn't mud and dirt that is the problem, it is the road salt. I just changed the antenna mast on our 1999.0, and had to remove 1/2 of the fender flare, inner fender and lower guard to get to the motor and spool. There was enough dirt packed in the bottom of the fender to plant vegetables, and when I finally scooped/scraped it all out, nothing but nice white factory paint to be seen... not a hint of rust.
That said, my 1995 has a few spots of rust starting on the rear doors, because it spent 1 winter in Pittsburgh...
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Code 55? Aww man, you are screwed!!
Honestly, your problem makes no sense. If the CEL turns on, there should be a stored code, OTHER THAN 55.
The only way I see to prevent this reoccurring ISSUE, really, is to stop driving it...
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So where exactly was it? Which one in that picture?
Take a look at the second pic:
72 waffles!?!
I'm beginning to see the source of the stomach issues...
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Steering Column
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Exhaust? It still shouldn't be leaking seafoam, just exhaust gasses and sucking air...
Obviously fix that first before chasing other things.
I don't "mud," cross rivers or bodies of water.
Utilized the winch for the 1000th time, and when I did the engine quit.
Basically every time I would spool in or out, while the truck was idling, it would die.
Sounds like the alternator is failing, or you just need to upgrayedd to a Maxima or Quest alternator.
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Forest Gump
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Compression check would be the step after what K9 said. If some cylinders have no/low compression, you might have valve/piston damage. If all cylinders have no/low compression, you probably have something off in the timing department and you need to figure that out.
I'm assuming your ignition timing is correct, you checked for spark and are getting fuel?
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Help, calling all Chevy Heads!
in Off-Topic
Posted
It is a Chevy. I didn't knock her, she had a knock from the factory...
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