Precise1
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Posts posted by Precise1
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Yeah, I recognize a few names as well...
Welcome back! You aren't the only one who took a break, and as for this "I'm so old" crap... psha!
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On 4/30/2019 at 3:18 PM, ije said:
Thanks for that - very helpful. I agree that the job itself is not that hard to do once you get the courage up, but getting the equivalent right parts for the various specs is the tricky bit. So I have a bit more research to do on that. Here's hoping I can pick your brains a bit more over the coming months... I note your point about the master cylinder: as you know, these cars look like a fish, move like a fish, but stop like a cow!
ije.
Hello, and welcome!
Assuming all the other brake components are in good order and the brakes are properly bled, if your stopping ability is poor, check to make you don't have a vacuum leak, that the vacuum booster is working properly, and that your master cylinder isn't leaking. Otherwise, these should stop as well as any other 2 ton 4x4.
8 hours ago, gamellott said:I would almost rather convert over to drum. As of the moment, the parking brake only works on one wheel and not very effectively, because the cable is seized on the drivers side. I have looked for a replacement at the parts stores and have not found one that will work (the mounting assemblies are different) Probably cataloged wrong, but clearly not for my ride. I have a suspicion that if I found one at a junkyard, I would find ones in the same condition as what I already have, which is not good.
Agreed, and I seem to recall a few people doing so, for the simplicity and parts availability. I've considered the rear disk swap, but have decided against it for exactly the same reason. Properly supported, it would be the ideal set up, but...
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Without being a wisebutt, it will be the 1 part that you really need...
In reality, the soft parts (seals, liners, boots, etc) are getting scarce and generally made anymore. I recall someone using a window seal from a different vehicle that fit very well, let me get back to you on that. I have a 91 with the 4x4 shifter cover, so if Adam's isn't acceptable, hit me up.
Quite frankly, I have no interest in sunroofs or switching to rear disk for the reasons you mentioned. Neat and all, but more trouble than it is worth on these AFAIC. YMMV.
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On 3/31/2019 at 7:50 AM, nunya said:
Alot of newer crap don't even have a spare, its an 'option' or 'package'...
Yeah, I'll give them an "option" to see a "package" alright...
On 3/31/2019 at 4:46 PM, Mr_Reverse said:My old Z's (75 280, 80 280, 85 300) all came from the factory with folding spares. It wasn't done to save money or weight, they were both much more expensive and at least twice as heavy as the road wheels and tires. It was done simply for space. The spot they found to hide them in was the right rear fender. My 280's came with an inflator can and when I actually looked at it, it was a can of R-12. My cars had inexpensive 12V inflators because they were useful and air was free, just a few min of time. Was fun to pull out the spare every 6 months or so and show the kids at the shop the cartoon tire. When done inflating, it was a simple matter to open the valve and watch the tire fold itself up again.
Interesting...
A friend of mine bought one of the newer Challengers when they first came out, and it just came with a can of fix-a-flat, since it has different sized tires front and rear.
Yeah, that's neat and all, but screw that! Things happen on the road, and towing isn't always just down the street waiting for a call.
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Rescue me
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On 3/24/2019 at 11:00 PM, Mr_Reverse said:
Yep, things are finally settling out a bit for me so I am working on getting things together again.
Long time no see, good to see some familiar names are still around.
Welcome back! Just wandered back in myself. Seems I have these 3 pathfinders that I should do something about...
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On 3/24/2019 at 7:10 AM, msavides said:
here is a new one. the guy used electrical tape to tape the single din car stereo to the pocket,. then since he did not have the bracket to mount it in. He used expanding foam to hold it in.
I almost drove the car into a ditch and left it after finding that GEM.
Took me almost 4 hours to cleanup that mess
Hopefully he used the slowly expanding kind so he didn't crack the dash?
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Have you checked the ECU for codes?
Check to make sure the TPS is responding right (be sure to jiggle the wiring harness/connector, when it is running, of course)
This might sound crazy, but I had a '95 manual that started to stumble/bog when shifting 1-2 and then 2-3 also. It would pick right back up and run fine again. Check the dizzy cap... mine had completely burned out the center contact and 1/2 the spring, so the spark was just arcing from the top of the cap down to the rotor. Had to prove it to the Autozone boys... showed them the inside of the cap, snapped it on, fired it up and hauled ass around the building for them. They basically crapped themselves...
Anyway, check the cap, it takes 1 minute.
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On 3/26/2019 at 2:38 AM, Slartibartfast said:
That's crazy. How much pressure was in that thing? I can't tell if the outside shrunk or the inside bulged. Either way, good thing she found it when she didn't need it.
I guess that's another point in favor of external tire carriers! Tough to miss a problem with your spare when it's right out in the open. (I say that... I remember taking the cover off the original spare on my '95 and finding the original spare inside, never used but with deep cracks in it.)
I had a look at the spare in my dad's Audi a while ago, just to check it, and found that it was dead flat. Imagine my surprise when I aired it up and the damn thing unfolded. Some rocket surgeon designed a collapsible full-size tire to fit in a space-saver tire well instead of just making the tire well a little bigger. At least they included a spare at all, apparently a lot of cars don't.
It's rated pressure is 60psi, and it has 50psi in it right now, almost 6 months after I took it out.
Oh, and the size is 135/70/16.
A folded spare... that sounds very... German.
Does it have a limited rating, or is it just as good as a non-folding tire? (doubtful)
On 3/26/2019 at 7:12 AM, RedPath88 said:Yeah that reminds me that I need to keep an eye out for a good full sized factory wheel with a good tire for the car. It's. Gen2 which which got narrow temps for a spare, unlike the Gen1's which came with a matching full sized wheel & tire. The good thing is that they left the well the same size throughout both generations.
Nice that the space for it is the same, but that just means they cheaped out...
I recommend doing what I did... just buy a new steelie and go to your local tire shop and see what's in the used tire pile. The spare for my wife is a better tire with more tread than the current Kumhos.
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Hey all, been a while... hope you have been good.
I'm that jerk that nags my wife to check oil/water/tire pressure/spare before a trip (just a weekend can be 600+ miles). She hates that I don't just do it for her, but she has to know how and why as well, so tough schitt. Well, she managed to avoid it a few times, but just before ThanksGiving last year, I made her do the rounds, and guess what?
Yep, that is what the 14 year old tire looked like. Granted it is a micro-emergency tire, but it has never been used in the 10+ years we have had the vehicle... it just sat in it's space saving well and rotted. Imagine being stuck somewhere only to find that this is what your spare looks like!
Needless to say she went from "Why do I have to do this?" to "OMG what if I needed it?" real quick.
The real point is that you won't find these tires at any tire shop, it is only at the stealership, and they probably don't have it in stock... I know, I called 1/2 a dozen. In this case, the oddball size was made by Continental (in Germany) and they would mount/balance/tax me for about $165.
o_O
So the wife now has a new full sized steel wheel ($60), a used tire from a local shop ($50) held down with some HF tie downs ($5)... $115 for the math challenged. This way she could just keep driving, across the state if need be, and not be limited to 50 miles/50mph with the factory sized crap.
I yoinked the plastic holder thingie from the well, and that area is now hidden storage for everything from jack to water to change of clothes/shoes to emergency gear. The fulll sized spare takes up a little room, but it is worth it.
(when will manufacturers stop this stupid schitt? Put a full sized spare tire in/on/under the car, anything else is a travesty.)
Anywho... check your spares... well.
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Running Scared
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So, what I would do is find yourself another VG33E block and go through it, top to bottom (I'm sure there are some aftermarket parts available), but specifically focus on porting/polishing the heads, any valve upgrades available and installing upgraded cams. Smooth out your intakes and exhaust manifolds, consider high flow cats, but definitely go with a after market/custom cat back exhaust. When your old motor tires/fails, swap the waiting one in with mostly stock components, and enjoy a fresh motor that performs 10-20% over stock.
For road vehicles that has always been my strategy: Stock motor (maybe cam replacement) and peripherals (unless there is an inhibiting/fail prone component) for reliability, and then make it breathe like a cheetah and fart like an ox. Just think of an engine as a self driven air pump; as long as it has sufficient fuel, all it wants is all the air it can draw and not having it backed up on the way out. Oversimplification, but you get the point.
You might want to consider setting all of this up and then doing the swap on your own schedule. Not only is it more convenient, but then you have a running motor to sell...
BTW, unless you are extraordinarily hard on vehicles, you shouldn't be having issues. The VG series is known for 250k miles (400k km) without major issue at norm; we have a 1999.0 with 300k km that runs flawlessly.
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I should add the nickname that my wife gave pathy #3, the part out: WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO GET RID OF THAT THING!
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Just for fun, or be pedantic, do those bearing codes have something to do with diameters and angles, or are they just an in house nomenclature?
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Which one?
I drove one to the store...
I walked past the other one...
I put the battery charger on the next one...
Y U SO PIKY?
Did some really hardcore wheeling today at Rocks and Valleys Offroad Park. Although it was fun, I'm not going back again with this truck; it was at its limit. Side steps are dented a lot, muffler is dented, and I tore a CV boot again. Only did 9 miles, but it took 7 hours! I scraped on rocks more times than I can count...hopefully my friend who was riding shotgun/spotting got good pictures because I didn't get many. I'll be posting up later.
On another note, with my hubs unlocked my orange 4wd light comes on after a little over an hour on the highway. Anybody else have this? Is it necessarily a problem? It seemed to drive fine...
Dude...
Don't get me wrong, but the WD21, without major mods, is a base level SUV that is surprisingly capable. The WD21 with some mods is awesome for a base level SUV (We're past Jeep here).
The WD21 is a base level SUV unless you full on Steevo it. At that point, buy something else...
(No slight on Steevo, he has taken the WD21 as far as it goes, that direction) ruggedrocks if you don't know.
It's all good... WD21's are awesome!
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You are in good hands....
So, consider if you do any towing, heavy hauling, there are quality airbags that go inside the rear coil springs and can be set to 0-15 lbs (IIRC). Point is, install the super lift arms (they are good, I have them too), install the rear bags (of you haul/tow), inflate the rear as appropriate, adjust the front with in it's bounds, then have it aligned. I think you get the point.
You should be good from there...
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Sorry, just have to brain fart. It is the ExBrit in SoCal that has good info on this, made it fit right without much trouble.
I'll try to link if I recall, but search for XJ bumper or ExBrit (why the hell is he here) R50 bumper, or whatever. You'll find it, and yes, it works...
(thanks ExBrit, hope to meet you some day)
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Little Stomper
Because it feels like driving a Tonka Truck would/should, but it will never grow up to be a Bigfoot.
Just the way I like it...
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Silent Laughter
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Dare we branch out and make a WD22 section? D22? (N50 might be pushing it)
We could call it NPORA (WFX)
I've been recommending a little bit of change up/new blood for a few years now, trying to keep NPORA from stagnating. It might even bring some of the newer enthusiasts into the old fold as well...
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Adam, the metal aftermarket ones, or the stock plastic ones?
If the metal AM, yes I would like dimensions, but the stock, no point.
For the former, I'd just send you calipers and teach you how to use them...
Let me get the lathe first.
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Shot this on Monday right here in town. My friend is a wanna be pro-photographer and he let me play with one of his multi-thousand dollar rigs. It is a midline Nikon with a 200-500 zoom on it. The subjects are a group of herons and egrets (3-4 different species) that make their nests in a few trees in the center divide of a busy street in a residential section in the west end of town. They do it every year, as a general "fark you", I think.
Cool, none the less. I haven't gone through all the photos yet, much less touch them up, but I'll just leave this teaser for now.
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That is a pretty penny for that motor, but you should be able to sell some of the parts you can't use in the swap to even it out.
I have no idea if you are still looking, but I have a VG30E out of a '91 to sell.
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Grassroots centerlinks are NLA? That sucks, because it was to go to part for durability. Those, and an AC idler brace would have been my reply...
Those bushings seem like a good replacement, but I think they are terribly expensive (normal plastic replacements are 1/4 the price), and I question using a high hardness nickel/bronze material without knowing the hardness of the idler arm shaft. You might find that the bushings have long wear, but when they need replacing, the idler arm does as well. (I have experience with this material in mold applications)
I'd think oilite bronze or even the oil impregnated UHMW PE would be good candidates instead. I should have a lathe this summer, so maybe I'll get to experiment...
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Please welcome mjotrainbrain as an NPORA Forum Moderator
in NPORA Announcements
Posted
Damn, I said we needed new Mods many years ago, and you are just now getting around to it?
Congrats mjotrainbrain, and welcome aboard.
I used to serve the coffee around here occasionally a while back...
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