Precise1

Good idea! Did you try adjusting the latch hook plates as well? B

2 in/2 out scenario sounds like a good idea as well, it would probably increase scavenging VS RPM. I'd just make sure your piping size is the actual inlet/outlet size. You might want to consider going with 2.25" from the muffler back, especially if you are running dual pipes. 2" increased to 2.25" is a 26.5% increase in area, 2" to 2.5" is a 56.2%. Since you would be running dual exhaust, each only one bank out of a 3.3 liter motor (300-330ish total CFM @ redline), how much increase do you really need? Just enough to lessen restrictions... You might run into some room constraints as well, IIRC the R50 is asymmetrical underneath towards the rear and you may need to have duals run side by side. Might want to take a quick look... BTW, Flowmaster is made here in town. After taking a look, I think dual out from the muffler back is overkill, but find a local custom exhaust shop and run a few scenarios past them as well. it looks like this is the closest to your application, so you mught want to look at a different company as well. http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/?page_id=451&partno=524553 Or http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/?page_id=451&partno=524554 B

So far, so good. Fingers can pick up even slight steps or rises. I recall a few people talking about nissan cylinders, that all still had hone marks which could mean a few things, the cylinder walls are extremely hard and/or the honing was deep/ the rings didn't seat much. I haven't seen a bore gauge at Harbor Freight, but I haven't looked either. Looks like they do have telescoping gauges though, but I can't vouch for quality and you'd still need calipers at least, if not micrometers. http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-telescoping-gauge-set-5649.html I have a set of telescoping gauges and calipers, and a mill (with broken X axis) as well. If you want to buy a cylinder hone and come by, we can measure, chuck it up and hone away. I'll look for the cylinder specs tomorrow regardless. B

Funny that they talk about 10hp from a cat back system, but discount the 2 they state could be had from replacing the cat (20% increase gain), and they do not test for high flow cat and cat back system... Nor did they talk about scavenging, since they have a car with boost, so makes this scenario specific. Split the difference, and it is right where I recommend. Keep it stock until the muffler, make sure the muffler isn't restrictive and pipe it without restriction from there. Some scavenging, less pressure at rpm, minimal component replacement, no CEL or smog issues. Best of all worlds. Of course, my R50 is stock and my WD21 has headers, high flow cat, 2.25" piping into a Flowmaster Delta 60 (ditched the Magnaflow) so I can't talk from experience. B

Charging the battery. B

Technically you can increase the size of the piping from the cats, to the muffler, and back from there, but I think that would be overdone with a stock motor. My guess is to leave the factor piping up to the muffer, replace the muffler with a free flowing aftermarket design, and to make sure the outlet of said muffler has the cross section area of both the inlets combined so it is not a choke point. B

Hello, and welcome! We do have a How To sub category on the Garage section, so that is a place to start. Also try using the advanced search for topics as well. Are you looking for new or used parts? Rob at factorynissanparts.com has great prices and can ship internationally so he should be a good resource for you. I've always understood that the D21 and WD21 are identical from the front doors forward, but there are small differenced in lights, grill, and perhaps trim? The best way to confirm would be have someone look up both and cross reference the part numbers. Some independent sites like Rock Auto might have that info as well. Yes, pictures need to be uploaded to a host and linked. B

It depends...The main reason I know of to hone the cylinders is to seat new rings. Do a visual inspection first, what do you see? Feel test, is there a step or taper? Quantify, what do the cylinders measure at 0 and 90 degrees, above and below the top end of stroke wear? (bore gauge or telescoping ID gauge/micrometers) How do those numbers match allowable tolerances? B

I do not know if it will reset on its own, perhaps after a number of ignition cycles without error input? The best way is to simply use an OBD2 reader, plug it in and read/clear the codes. B

It seems to me that all you would want/need to replace is the choke point of the muffler where you have 2 in and one out. I don't have any recommendations as our R50 is stock, but I would suggest making sure what you get has an outlet volume (area really) equal or slightly less than the sum of the two inlets. Agreed, nothing else is needed, just have it piped back from that point. For all the people with WD21 set up input, that not might be valid because the R50 has twin cats/pipes into the muffler and 1 outlet; a much different animal. B

Ok, good! I thought that was the answer, but wasn't confident enough to state it as fact. B

No problem! Did you find the answer in there or do I have to do some digging? B

I can't tell if it would work without knowing the diameter and length of the components, but their fitment guide claims it wouldn't. Isn't the one for the R50 one piece that has to fit though a slot anyway? Have you tried to source a used one from a wrecker or a part out? B

Leo, have you downloaded the Factory Service Manual from the pinned thread in the Garage section? It has a whole diagnostic section (EC I believe) based purely on symptoms, not just OBD2 codes, things like rough and low idle. That is where I would start... B

One piece sleeves into the other. You put the small end of the clamp first on the small pipe, then you install the the 2 pieces of pipe, sleeving the small one into the large one. When you have everything bolted up and torqued, put some of the Permatex Copper RTV around the small pipe, right at the joint about 1" wide, do the same for the larger pipe, slide the clamp in place over both of them and tighten it up. B Oh, almost forgot... Walker Mega-clamp #33230 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-33230

I'm afraid not... B

From what the hard copy says, that is probably an accurate deduction. Makes sense too, considering they knew it was the last model year already... B

It has stuff that the FSM doesn't, mainly wiring and electrical, probably because while the 94-95 are almost identical mechanically to the 90-93s, the change to the round dash and electronic cluster changed a lot of things as well. There isn't an electronic 1993 version that I know of to there is nothing to compare to. B

Ahh, sheit! Sometimes there is nothing you can do. Maybe rapping it with a hammer and heat beforehand? B

Not a big deal, just trying to make sure the two aren't confused. B

Have you even removed the the dizzy cap and looked? I had a distributor cap that lost the center electrode, and was just arcing to the rotor/wire contact. Yes, it ran just fine that way with just a little stumble at low RPM. Again, have you inspected the dizzy components? B

So that was a serpentine drive belt, not a timing belt... Pathfinders have a fixed tension idler that is set upon timing belt replacement. There is no warning to timing belt failure with the VG30 that I know of. No sound, shake or kiss to the forehead. Members have had them fail when starting, idling through a parking lot, driving down the road and even "I'm going to change it this weekend". Best bet is to be proactive... B

I'm guessing you have a lot of rust or corrosion? Did you use penetrating oil? If they are hard removing, do you stop to let them cool? Turn them back in and re-oil the threads? I don't deal with rust/corrosion every day (NorCal) but as a machnist, I know fasteners really well. Start with this... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/5361-a-mechanics-tips-and-tricks/ B

It isn't in this? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23821-subframe-drop-for-r50/ I could have sworn I read something on that in the last month or two and the answer was yes, but I'm not sure where/who it was so I can't 'prove' it. B

I recall that, and thank you again! If only I knew where that disk is... I have an older computer I need to go back and pull some data from, it should be there too. Thanks for the hosting as well! B