Precise1

So you have the truck back now, how did it all work out?? B

Yes, check what Ben said, and, I hate to say it, make sure the rotor spins when you are cranking the motor... Remember the basics. Air, fuel and spark. Chase all of that down and go from there. It can't hurt to see what the ECU says either, it doesn't need to start for that... Good luck Bud. B

If the wheel bearings were so bad that you could hear them on the highway, I am sure you could feel hear that something was not right when you had the tire jacked up and turned it by hand. I replaces my wheel bearings about a year ago when I bought the truck. The drivers side was noticably crunchy feeling, but did not yet make any noticable noise while driving. As for tires, My BFG M/T KM2s are fairly quiet. I'd rate them at a 5, but that is a pretty subjective scale. B

Which really is the definition of a non-leak, isn't it? I haven't used sea foam, but I'm hesitant due to some of the feed back I've read here. I will use it as a gas stailizer and injector cleaner but I don't plan on pouring any in the crank case... B

OSH is Orchard Supply Hardware. What he is saying is that this is a common bearing size, easy to find and very easy to replace instead getting a 'new' unit. When I replaced mine on an old truck, I could have sworn it was a sealed bearing so I don't know how much good lubing it will do in the long run. Once it starts howling, just change it... B

Just note what you show there is a cone filter with a different tube to the IM, not a CAI. CAI would be boxed/barriered with a direct infeed from the front or the wheel well. I'm not saying that you won't notice any difference in power/response, but you are using the wrong nomenclature. B

Exactly, sounds like you blew a seal and now it's dripping... B

You need to post, PM and email the request for that service... B

Unless it is rusted solid, the correct, tight fitting wrench should be all that is required after it had been soaked in penetrating oil. B

I found one for you... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/1560262128.html B

It's all about the pathfinders... Glad you got everything together, learned something and have a good running truck. B

x3 You may have to gravity bleed the ABS unit to get that light to go away. Also, unless you have a leak, it probably means your brake pads are getting worn. If you top off the fluid, when you change the brake pads and push the piston back into the caliper, it may overflow. Easy to circumvent, but be aware. B

Dave (and anyone else), I have a gallon of distilled water for the radiator in each vehicle which can always quench your thirst as well. Just make sure it has a stout resealable lid, you don't want it spilling in your tote box like mine did... B

Nice. I'll copy that link into the parts source thread. I'm glad you found a good price. Let us know how it goes... B

Exactly. Just forget you thought that and all will be well. Here is a discussion about the exhaust hardware. Not sure who is wrong, but most are probably right. Read up and make a choice, or just ask what want. It doesn't seem to be a finished topic... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23631&st=0 B

Allow me to introduce the new search function here at NPORA, known as "Red". Simply PM RedPath88 with what you are looking for, ie and your answer (with search parameters) will be posted within 6 hours, 24-7/365!!! B

Yes, good idea. I was at the wreckers yesterday and grabbed 2 tranny coolers, one fair size off of a pathy and a pint sized one off of a chrysler. Where did you order a tranny with 65k miles for $380?? Good deal!! I think many people would like to know!! B

http://www.bosch.com/content/language2/html/2859.htm B

Yes FUELER, they do. They are the same pitch (M8x1.25) studs, just a different material/hardness/grade. Remember though, this is only for WD21s, the R50s (and cousins) have 10mm studs and generally don't have the breakage issue. DD, I have no idea, I have not used them. If the member that posted that is active, PM him or even email if there is an address. Like I said, I simply used bolts as paying $75 for hardware is offensive. Some people have reported problems of them backing out/loosening up and I have yet to check mine. Too much rain... B

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I'm new to the R50s but I could have sworn I read something about the KYB upper mount (bearing portion) was bad news and should not be used? Perhaps that contributed to the break? Damn, now I have to go try to find what I read... B

I read this also and can say that the only time that I have ever heard of someone breaking that rod in the 5 years I have been a member here is when it was damn near rusted and worn through in the first place. I just put the poly units on my truck as I want the stiffness. The poly will oval out a bit and does compress some. I seriously doubt that the 1/2" steel rod will break because of them. I doubt Energy Suspension would sell them if this was common. But hey, use the softer ones if it makes you nervous. " B

Here, this has the part # information in it, the studs should be the same as for the zx turbo. The stock studs are known to break so any time the heads/manifolds are removed, it is highly recommended to replace them with the stronger versions. I upgraded to harder bolts but I need to check if they are still torqued properly... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21832&view=&hl="exhaust studs"&fromsearch=1 B

Sweet, I always wished they would do that!! I was planning a trip this weekend so the timing is perfect!! Thanks for posting this!! B They claim 11 Pathys there (I don't believe it) but 2 95s and a 97 put there this year and it's been raining most of the time so there should be parts left. Tomorrow morning...

Ok, which may explain why there is still an issue. I'll dig up the appropriate link in the morning (too tired now) and you can show it to your mechanic. If he doesn't give it credence, go find another mechanic... Oh, Permatex copper RTV does wonders for exhaust gaskets... B