Precise1

It's purely technical, but... The proper sequence is farthest for the master cylinder first, working closer. Ie, RR, LR, ABS unit. Not saying that is the fix, just saying... Is it possible that you have a bubble in the soft line? I have only seen this once or twice, but it acts similarly. You step on the brake and a section of flex line balloons and almost no hydraulic pressure gets to the actuating cylinder. It's a long shot, but it sounds like you have covered most everything else. B

Ok, well, all I have is bad news. You have a 1995, how many miles on it?? It sound like you have the classic autotragic failure. Do you have reverse, that is usually the first to fail. What is the fluid like?? Pink and clean?? Do you have an aftermarket cooler hooked up or is it still plumbed through the stock 'bottom of the radiator' unit?? These tend to clog over time, reducing flow and allowing the tranny to overheat. Since you think you have already lost a gear, I doubt that a fluid change and a cooler will 'fix' it. A few people have gotten more life by doing that. I hate to say it, but I think your tranny is fried and that you won't make it to work with it tomorrow. Answer the Q's and maybe we can help. Perhaps there is someone nearby with a tranny and/or tools to help a guy out?? B

See above... B

Is that the error code?? Yes, it matters, a lot. It tells the ECU how rich to run due to engine temp. Kingman had one fail drastically and his truck would barely run. Again, is that the ECU fault code you read?? We are trying to help but you need to slow down and work with us here... That sounds more like the proper range, but then a bigger factor is being within a few % of the same number in all cylinders... B

It's raining and I'm in my bathrobe. Let me get back to you in a few hours... B

LOL There is easy and there is right... B

Even if that doesn't fix it right off of the bat, I can't see it hurting. I had a wire ground on the headers right after install, it cut out my entire gauge cluster and put the tranny into limp mode. Limped back home, asked for help, replaced the wiring at that point, tied it back and replaced the blown fuse. Runs fine now... B

Wow. I'll leave it at that... B

The main strength comes from underneath where it is bolted to the frame. The bumper attachments are bolted to a piece welded to the top of the frame. It really is strong enough IMHO; if you shear that bolt or tear the bumper mount off, you should really examine your methods/expectations. Even if you did, it's not like anything would fly loose. If I managed to tear the front bumper off winching, someone should whack me in the head, several times, hopefully until I stop moving... That said, the one thing that I would do differently is use tubing for the bottom support. I'd have to take measurements, but I suspect that 1x2 would do the job to line up the bolt holes and if you angled it up right after clearing the frame it would give you about 2" more clearance/approach angle and be a stronger than the stock design. That said, I can't find much fault with the ARB bumper, it is solid and well made. Perhaps it isn't ideal for rock crawling, but I don't think that was the market they were shooting for. I've set my Pathy up as an expedition vehicle, and the ARB compliments that approach 100%. B

Bah, you are married so you should have gray hair. Besides, I didn't take the picture... Actually, I noticed that when I reviewed the posted pictures. Looks like a seam weld and that is all. I was so happy with the overkill the guy did with the lower section that I missed that. Well, when it comes off again for the winch install, looks like I'll have that addressed, I'm sure it won't be a problem. I have a length of tube at work for a rear bumper (4x6x3/16" IIRC) that I was going to have them weld up for a rear bumper once I measure/make the gussets, mounts, etc. It's the exhaust shop that made my mid pipe and modified the rear section. The same ones that specialize in custom classics. I generally like their work and working with them, it's a nice change from the Midas mentality, "drop it off and we'll tell you when it is done". B

Well Adam, I'm not seeing what you are so I'm not sure where the two notches comes from. As long as you know, that's all that matters though. As for jumping head first, I respect that. Just trying to make sure to pool is full before you do, though... I just read that. Didn't realize it took so long. I'm sorry to hear you are still damaged, but I'm glad to hear you are up and about. If there is anything I can do... B

Hope you don't mind your shots being included, GG ?? They were a big help to me and hopefully others can learn from them also... B

And finally, just because it got mixed in for some reason, the Chinese Pink Garlic I grew that was used for seed stock so I should have another 2 dozen of them in 3-4 months... B

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Well, here we go. I thought I had some shots of the backside unmounted, but I don't seem to. I put together a collection of everything I could find so far, including shots of GrimGreg modifying one for a 3" body lift and my own, modified for a 2" body lift. This should get the visual guys started and I'll fill it in with better pictures when I take it off to install the new winch... B

Oh, Adamzan reminded me, Alkorahil runs a dealership inline parts service with great prices and excelent knowledge. His info is in the Services section so check him out. Unfortunately, his (Rob Lacy) pathy was just totaled by someone hitting it on the side of the road and he got a bit beat up. I'm pretty sure he is back at work now... B

Damn, slow down!! All the info is here, but a reference manual is good. Go to the Garage section and download the 94 Factory Service Manual manual in PDF form, and then read the Changing Your Timing Belt write up by 5235Pathfinder or something like that (a Nissan mechanic). The Manual is pinned in the Garage, and the Timing Belt Change is in the How To section of the Garage IIRC. I mean to help when I say slow down and look around. I applaud your running off, but lets make sure it is in the right direction. B

That, or when you bled the brakes when you had it all reassembled, did you also bleed the ABS unit on the mid/inside passenger frame rail? There is a standard bleed nipple on it. I recommend making sure the shoes are properly adjusted (hand brake should tell you this), then bleed the passenger rear, drivers rear and the ABS unit. I have found that I needed to gravity bleed the system to get good results, but the usual 2 person method will suffice to see if you are in the ball park. Yes, you can be driving around on your front brakes only. It is 2/3-3/4 of your stopping power... B

It's not a quick check. How many miles on it and how long/how many miles have you had it. For your model, the timing belt is supposed to changed every 60k miles... I'm not saying that is the issue, just that it could exhibit the same symptoms. When the wires fried, what was the reason for that, and was there something else that was affected before the melt down?? I'm not good with electronics so I can't really help much with that end. I will ask if you have checked the ECU for stored fault codes?? Could be helpful... B

Damn it!! Quit confusing me!!! Ok, sorry about that. Yes, that is the source I meant. It is more expensive, but there is quite a bit more included in the kit too. To me, just having the right bolts, spacers and other hardware is worth it. How long and how much trouble to fab all those other pieces to save $100?? That's just the way I look at things. I really would stick to a kit that was specific to my vehicle... B

Could you have hopped a tooth on the timing belt?? B

Needle nose vice grips and a rag will pinch off fuel lines perfectly, but do relieve the pressure first. B

Does it even have the right number of spacers?? Does it have metric bolts of the right length and pitch?? My guess is a big fat No Way!! A new Nissan Pathfinder lift kit is about $150. I recommend going that route... B

Good tires, been around a long time and considered a standard for many. What size though, that seems a bit expensive. I got the BFG M/T KM2 in 31x10.5" for $169es B