vengeful

More likely than not, it's your fan clutch that's pooched. If the AC cools properly while moving, then the compressor is fine. What is happening is that there isn't enough air flowing over the AC Condensor and the Radiator to efficiently cool both of them. Thus the ECM turns off the AC Compressor to more efficiently cool the engine so it doesn't overheat and get damaged.

Ryan, you're incorrect. The AC lift replaces the coils with coils of a higher spring rate for added height. I have the AC lift and love it. When I first installed it I was close to 4" over stock in the rear and 3.5 in the front. Now that I've got about 75,000 miles on it, I'm a little over 2" over stock front and 2.5" over stock rear. I personally, will not buy that lift when it comes out. I'm not going to get into the various reasons why, but I don't feel the need for any more lift than I already have. My truck already climbs over pretty much anything I would want it to.

I went from the cats back with 2.5" diameter pipe into the muffler, and 2.75 from the muffler out.

RMDs job was for stainless. Stainless costs considerably more. I just had mine done at Midas and they charged their standard rate...

That could definitely be a possibility. It's always something that would be relatively simple to fix if you know what it is!

As long as it's got the same bolt pattern and gear ratio, yes.

I had my exhaust done for $180 not including the muffler for all custom piping. The muffler cost me $20 on eBay.

That's an understatement. Last time I SeaFoamed my engine, we were in the middle of a big Cicada season... Didn't see a SINGLE cicada in the neighborhood for about two weeks. Fumigated the entire neighborhood! LOL. Didn't go over very well with the neighbors at first...but they forgave me quickly when they realized that all the bugs were gone. LOL. Oh, and uh, you might not want to do this if you live in a townhouse community or apartment complex....and DEFINITELY not in a garage...lol.

Not preciesly. The R50s also had the 33 spline rear end.

Very carefully....

Just swap the whole 3rds provided the R&P are the same. That's the easiest, you'll be able to find someone with an open rear who wants an LSD for free pretty easily. I'm sure you could work up a straight up trade, 3rd for 3rd.

All Pathfinders with the exception of the VQ35 are recommended to use 87. And yes...it should be in the owners manual, at the end in the Quick Reference section, along with the recommended type of Motor Oil, capacities, etc.

Something like that...

Your Pathy is designed to run on 87 Carri. The DOHC 3.5 24V engine is designed to run on 91+.

Weekend of October 7 is the NOAS URE Run.

You will not notice any sort of difference in performance/economy when using a different octane rating fuel. This topic was just covered recently here, and I'll echo it again. Manufacturers design engines and the engine control systems very very very specifically, and they design them based upon using a certain grade of fuel. The higher octane rating fuels take longer to burn, and the motor is designed for that longer burn. Using 87 in an engine designed for 91/93, you will not see any degradation of performance, however the faster burn will affect the seals in your engine and could lead to a premature failure or internal engine damage.

1.) Regular is fine, synthethic is better. 5W-30. 2.) Premium (unfortunately) - it's what Nissan calls for, and I don't recommend using anything lower than the recommended octane rating. 3.) Yes, it's fine. But if it gets dicey, you might wanna click it into 4x4. Sneak up? Not so much, review the maintenance schedules in the back of your owners manual and have the 100,000km (and higher) major services done, unless you have records of them being done.

Nope.... I posted the 04 for someone, and I'm working on getting the rest up, too.

Well, then in that case, disregard the TSB. Have you checked the fluid level in the tranny?

Don't worry....nobody completely understands SaKaNa.

Check out this Technical Service Bulletin for Transfer Case Bearing Noise at Low Speeds... http://www.fnd4pth.com/R50/TSB/NTB01-085A.pdf

Hey man! Good to see you! How's the new business venture?

Well, that would be the easiest, and fastest way to get your truck back on the road.

Justin, Since your heads are still good (I'm guessing, I don't know the extent of your motor trouble other than a thrown rod), why don't you just get a VG33 block and assemble it all together.

The buzzing you heard was probably your fuel pump.