vengeful

OK....some answers.. 1.) It will have provisions for BOTH fog lights AND turn signals. 2.) It will bolt up to the older Pathy's just fine. The grille differences will NOT pose a fitment issue because it is being designed around the larger grille of the newer model. I have suggested that the top plate be extended back about 1-1.5" to prevent a gap for the customers with older Pathfinders (probably the more likely demographic to purchase these, though it'll be pretty close to even). 3.) At this time, there is no plans for a rear bumper. Depending on the sales of the front bumpers, a rear bumper may come into fruition. 4.) No Idea when these will be completed at this time. The project has been put on hold due to extenuating circumstances.

Beautiful camping spot! Man, it's so GREEN!

There are generally NO Warnings of an impending timing belt failure. They usually just go, and then you hear grinding, banging, booming noises from under the hood and your engine dies. If you are worried it wasn't changed, it's better to have it changed, than not.

Why bother? The TX10 is damn near indestructible. Sure, gears for it are more expensive than gears for an NP, but don't forget you also have to buy the NP, the adapter plates, and all of that stuff, so it's a wash on cost, and a whole lot more work to swap to the NP.

You could try to wedge them back with a narrow steel rod or a toothpick or something....

Great way to put it....but...now I'm hungry for Baklava.

Yes, that would be the one.... It's got a big badge that says SE in huge letters and then Limited underneath it in litlte letters.

Have the tires test fitted on your wheels before you do anything crazy like putting spacers on. If they don't fit, then worry about it. A 1" spacer will stick the wheel/tire 1" farther out from the hub.

It's a trim line introduced for the 99.5 and 2000 models that sits between the standard SE and the LE. It's got some, but not all of the LE features, in an SE package.

Hm....COOL! Thank's for the head's up Pat.

Unless you slam them straight down from 6 feet in the air... Don't ask how I know.... Damn Jeep...

It probably is your ambient air temp sensor. There should be 3 sensors up there. Put the Tranny cooler vertically to the side of that vertical brace if it doesn't fit behind it.l 2. Not easily. You can use it if you run a divorced t-case however, but then you'd need to get new driveshafts.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1105

You can do it Navy, but I wouldn't personally do it. Granted, "what sounds like crap" to me sounds great to most people. I've got extremely persecuting ears when it comes to what sounds good. My old boss would tell me that I was the biggest Audiophile he'd ever had as an installer. LOL. I was generally booked 2-3 weeks out for installations, whereas with the other installers you could usually always get it done the same day depending on timing. I just took meticulous care to set the imaging of the speakers properly, set the equalization on the amps and head unit (or equalizer) to perfectly match the type of music the customer listened to, and just overall care when running wires so they would receive as little interference from other circuits in the vehicle as possible. I have yet to meet another installer (outside of the absolute top end places that only work on Ferarris, Bentleys, etc) that do that. I would set up every customers car how I would want it if it were my car....I only ever had one complaint, and that was that the guy didn't like the subs he chose. He said they sounded great in the sound room, but sounded poopy in his truck. The sound room can really only give you a comparison of speakers, not what it will sound like in your vehicle. I think even the Boston Z-Series sound terrible in the sound room. The imaging is way off, they're not properly adjusted, etc... You can make almost any set of speakers sound really good, if they're good quality speakers. Rubber surround, neo-dymium magnets, etc are all a must. With proper amplification (too little or too much can blow the speakers), proper imaging, and proper ajustment, any set of well made speakers will sound good. The stock speakers, are a foam surround with a paper cone, and iron magnets. I just happen to be extremely picky is all...lol

Actually, my company is doing testing on that right now. The hottest interior temperature we've recorded was only about 165*F, and that was when it was 118*F outside. That isn't enough to cause sufficient expansion in the air inside the vehicle to cause the glass to break. Tinting is simply a film that goes on the glass, it doesn't change the physical or thermal properties of the glass at all. In fact, tint helps to hold the window together if it breaks.

I have never once used AC in a vehicle...

I worked as an installer in one of the top stereo shops in the DC area for a couple years. They stopped selling Pioneer stuff because they were getting a lot of complaints about it. I personally do not have any first hand experience with it, as I have never bought any of it because of that.

The best thing you can do is go down to a local professional stereo shop (NOT like a Best Buy/Circuit City) and spend a good hour or two listening to the various speakers in your price range. Pick a head unit that you like (I suggest Clarion, Alpine, Eclipse, or Kenwood Excelon units), use that to power the speakers. Then see which combination sounds best TO YOU. It's your ears that are going to be listening to the music most. Don't forget an amp, that will make any speaker sound MUCH better, and you'll get less distortion. Just make sure that the RMS output of the amp matches the RMS acceptance of the speaker, and the Peak output of the Amp doesn't exceed the peak acceptance of the speaker.

Used audio equipment is never recommended unless you're on an EXTREMELY tight budget. You're only going to be buying obsolete stuff, and you'll end up paying the same as what you would pay for better new stuff. Used speakers are never recommended because nobody replaces speakers unless something happens to them... -thnkboutit-

*cough* BS *cough* The hottest temperature ever recorded by the National Weather Service in the State of Georgia was 107*F. That doesn't qualify as ***EXXXTREME HEAT!!!***. Quality Auto Glass, even tinted, should be able to withstand 107*F. My tinted windows haven't mysterious exploded even when it was 122*F outside...HMMMMMMMMMM Obviously, that failure was caused by a defect in the glass. Odds are, there was a tiny air bubble in the glass which expanded in the heat and caused the glass to break. When dealing with cheap glass such as a drinking glass or candle holder, air bubbles are extremely common.

I'll be coming back east sometime in November. I'm returning to Rochester the Tuesday after Thanksgiving, and I should be back in VA the Tuesday before or earlier, depending on how quickly I can move out.

McIntosh isn't worth the money - at least not anymore. They've gone downhill considerabily. Nakamichi's, while outstanding, don't have the features that modern stereo buyers crave (satellite radio, iPod connectability, etc). CDTs lowest models are about $99. They're $99 speakers are crap compared to the Infinitys.

Yes, he's the 'new' guy. He's been there several months, and has really turned things around. Every time I've dealt with him as been nothing but great.

Please tell me you called AC and spoke with Volrick before placing your order....

The factory tweets don't really do much, and with a properly set up 2-way in the door, you won't notice a difference - unless you're a true audiophile like I am. Another option instead of getting a set of coaxials for the front, would be to get a set of components and replacing the tweeters as well. The only hard part about that is finding someplace to mount the Crossovers. You want to mount them as close to the speakers as possible for the best imaging. I mounted mine inside of the dashboard. These are the components I have in the front, MB Quart Premium Line PCE-216, 6.5" Components These are what I have in the rear doors for fill, MB Quart Discus DKF-116, 6.5" Coaxials. I ran my speaker wires up the center hump and out from there to avoid interference and noise from other wires. I bought shelded Monster brand speaker wire.