vengeful

That reminds me of that episode of Cops I saw once. Iowa county mounty is chasing some guy on a dirt bike. Dirt bike goes off road...cruiser gets stuck on train tracks. Trains start coming. Cop freaks. I've got the video somewhere.

LOL! THORLEYS THORLEYS THORLEYS THORLEYS!! There, that should answer your question.

No. That doesn't happen on our trucks. Our front suspension is a McPherson Strut style. There is no "frame," per se, as it is a Unibody. However, there is a full-box-steel structural member integrated into the body (which is closely based off the WD21 frame, but you never heard me say that...) The squeaking is most likely your control arm bushings or the strut bearings.

Yes, it is independent. All the more reason it needs an anti-sway bar! There's a BIG honkin steel bar that runs perpendicular to the "frame" and connects via links to the struts.

How much current does the Treo require to charge it? If it is drawing more than the allotted amount...*pop goes the fuse-ee* The charger could be improperly grounded, incomplete circuit...*pop goes the fuse-ee* The ground to the power socket could be bad...*pop goes the fuse-ee* Try to plug it into the rear socket and see what happens. It's on the back of the center console/armrest deal...

I paid less than $200 for my rims including tax!

The SE Frontier wheels are the same as the SE R50 wheels. Xterra centercaps won't work on those wheels. Your centercaps are from a Frontier.

You'll be fine, they'll stick out a little further, 22mm, than the OE wheels.

I believe the QX4 has different shocks to give it a softer, more luxurious ride. Other than that, there really is no difference.

Yeah....Said that for safety's sake...

That's a bypass for your clutch inter-lock switch. Holding that button will allow you to start a manual transmission vehicle without holding the clutch in. Provided you're in Neutral.

I've been dealing with the same crap for over 2 years. What code are you getting? Try replacing your gas cap?

You will never, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever see me recommend Crapmini for anything...EVER. Their service is complete and utter CRAP.

If you have to ask, you don't need one.

Mine seemed to quiet down after I put a bunch of sound deadener in the rear though.

Mine does the same thing. I've never had any leaks. Don't worry about it too much...just turn up the stereo if the sound bothers you. LOL.

AC http://www.4x4parts.com Look under Drivetrain.

I did find a "universal" APC pillar pod, but it's for 2 1/16" gauges. The gauges I wanted to use are 2 5/8". :sniff: I suppose I could use 2 1/16" gauges if it came down to it. And I'm sure I could make that thing work, and if not, I bet I could return it at the very least...LOL.

Well....I found a cheaper A/F, so I'm going to use that instead of the EGT.

I *could* fit 33s now....but I'd rather not hack up my body too much.

Though, I must say, if my truck had the WD21 steering, I would have gone through a TON of steering components doing that stuff. In fact, the WD21 that was with us in Moab popped a TRE and bent his CL. :X So....as you can see :bow: R50 > WD21.

Because it's about 1/4 the cost of the A/F kit and I can easily derive how the engine is running based on it.

I've run up to Black 1s at Rausch, and Blue 3s at Paragon (in a foot of snow no less) in my Pathy with a 2" lift, full skids and 32s. Open rear. Also successfully navigated 3.5-4 rated trails in Arizona and Moab. I'm not dogging your skills, Dave, but what I'm trying to say is that: Careful spotting will do a LOT to get a lighter modified vehicle through some crazy serious stuff.

I'm looking to add some gauges to my truck to more closely monitor conditions as it gets older. Trans Temp, Oil Pressure, EGT, Volts, Water temp, Oil Temp are the ones I'm looking to get. I'd like to mount the Trans Temp, Oil Pressure and Volts on the A-pillar and the EGT, Water and Oil temps in the center stack. The center stack is easy enough, and I can mount them where the HVAC controls are after I finish relocating them. However, I was unsuccessful in finding A-Pillar pods for gauges for the R50. Has anyone installed some there? What pods did you use? How'd you go about doing it? Pics?

As I said in my PM, if you're running lean, you're not getting the requisite amount of fuel for the supplied amount of air. There are several ways to fix this...assuming both banks are timed perfectly. In any event, you need more fuel to the engine...get a different fuel pressure regulator that allows higher line pressures, and subsequently more volume of fuel to pass through (you'll probably need to upgrade the fuel pump as well.) Larger volume fuel injectors. Here's what I did in my 2.1L 16V VW motor after I put in the 272/260 .424" lift Shrick cams. Passat W8 3.5 bar Fuel pump & pressure regulator Corrado VR6 48 lb injectors. (well, 4 of them anyhow) I don't remember who made it, but its an aftermarket Honda Civic 1.8L Vtec fuel rail. It's also running stand-alone, and it has a stroker crankshaft, hence the 2.1L. This motor pulls HARD.