vengeful

Crutchfield also supplies you with step-by-step instructions to wire up the CD player and amplifier and install speakers, but their installation sheets won't cover everything. For example, the installtion sheets for the head unit will assume that you're retaining all the stock wiring, and will have you splice all that in. My suggestion to you would be to install the speakers and amp first...(the MRP-F250 will fit in that cubby below your cargo floor!), and wire the speakers to the outputs on the amplifier, then run your amplifier coax wire up to the head unit and then wire up the head unit (omitting the stock speaker wiring, which you will have upgraded with the new speakers and amps), then wire the power to the amplifier. Don't forget to disconnect your battery or ZZZAPP!

Recommended reading: The Car Stereo Cookbook (2nd Edition) by Mark Rumreich - It's a very good book that covers everything from design, procurement and installation. Another good one: How to Design and Install High-Performance Car Stereo by Joe Pettitt Wait a stinkin minute here....so, if you are what you eat, then the `Hoff is no more than a steel braided child...

Hush you! Don't steal my idea!

I can't agree with you ZB. In my experiences Pioneer does not have the quality of other brands. If you think your Pioneer speakers sound good, then go down to a good stereo place (not Best Buy), and listen to some MB Quart or Boston Acoustic speakers. The stereo shop I used to work at wouldn't sell Pioneer products because they weren't up to snuff with Alpine, Eclipse, Nakamichi, etc. Navs, If you're looking to get the best possible sound, here's what you're going to have to do. Replace the head unit with a top echelon Alpine or Eclipse unit Add an external 100W RMS/Channel 4-channel amplifier (JL Audio 500/4 recommended) Replace your front speakers with 6.5" Boston Acoustic Z1 Components Replace your Rear speakers with 6.5" Boston Acoustic Z-Series Coaxials.... Add a 10" JL Audio W3 Subwoofer and a 250/1 JL Audio Amplifier. Granted, that setup will run you close to $6,000 when you include professional installation..... Now, I'm sure your budget won't allow that, so here's my recommeded setup for you... Head Unit: Alpine CDA-9856 (Link) Speakers: 2 pairs of Infinity Reference 6012si (Link) 4-Channel Amplifier: Alpine MRP-F250 (Link) In any event, replacing the Bose stereo you will have to rewire the stereo to bypass the Bose amplifiers. At which point, the stock speakers will sound like crap. I highly suggest replacing the speakers with some high-quality 2-ways and a good quality external amp that matches the head unit. Installation isn't terribly difficult on a Pathfinder, and can easily be done in an afternoon if you even have the slightest clue what you're doing. Crutchfield includes complete installation instructions, as well as any mounting kits and wiring harness adapters for the head unit you'll need. You will need to get a wiring kit for the amp, though.

I thought something needed to be flammable or explosive to explode. Are you sure it wasnt crack? And what about the millions of sunroofs that are tinted from the factory? Huh. huh huh..... *poke*

Right after you, bud!

Granted that I have the 4Crawler sliderz, I would say go with the BPs... The BP skids have a round outer bar to help slide around trees and such better, and a wider base bar to distribute force more evenly. Also...check your PMs... Yes, again!

That is it.... You could unscrew it, but I don't recommend it. It blocks a lot of water and debris from getting sucked into the air intake which is just on the other side of that plastic guard. Just trim it down and leave as much of it in place as possible.

JEEEZ! Rusty much?

Oh, in that heat, definitely. Anything above 65-70*F is warm enough for it to be soft enough to cut with the blade. Between 45 and 65 its a bit of a grey area, too hard to cut with a blade, but too soft to effectively cut with a dremel...

My first though was...wow, that's a really dark pic, then I realized that they're on a truck! They do look good!

Haha....that's GM for ya!

That is very NOT true. Using one of those cheap-ass Piece of Junk self-recharge kits from auto parts stores, it is extremely EASY to overpressurize the system. That's what caused the failure of the AC compressor on 3 of my idiot friend's cars. Just bring it to an A/C shop and get the system tested. Most places will pressure check it for free.

Well, you could look on tire rack and get the exact specs of the tire, and then test fit with a different tire of the same size. Realize that not all 265/75R16 tires are exactly the same size. My 32x11.50x15 Dunlop Mud Rovers were shorter (31.3") but wider (11.5") than my BFG ATs (31.7"x11.2").

I tried that, but found that a good sharp utility knife makes really quick work of the inner fender liner stuff on a warm day - when it's soft and pliable. When the plastic is softer, the dremel doesn't cut it as effectively, but the utility knife can just slice right through it. It took me all of 2 minutes to trim my fender liners and lower bumper valance using a utility knife. Took me almost a half-hour to cut the back out of the lower storage panel for my CB.

Take utility knife. Stab through plastic crap. Cut plastic crap off until it don't rub no more.

What are the temperatures like?

Well, I never said it wasn't excessive! He does have a 45' 5th wheel boat trailer that he pulls with it....with that much power, it feels like there's nothing back there.

Do you know what the stock boost level is? I know they're considerably higher on diesel motors than gasoline motors, but don't know what this one is. I have a co-worker who has a Powerstroke Turbodiesel Ford F-350...the thing is GIGANTIC. It's ridiculous...but he runs 70psi of boost and makes 900ft-lb of torque at idle. Granted, he's also dumped a ludicrous amount of money in the engine of this thing...it'll tow a house.

Well...it only helps if you actually remember to close the sunroof. My mom left hers open, killed the stereo, AC controls, heated seats and transmission control module. Stupid Mazdas....

Generally not. They're being compressed into the hood/bumper by the rope, holding them in place.

That exists on all vehicles with power sunroofs. There has to be a failsafe type mechanism in case something happens that prevents the sunroof from being closed by the switch.

Not exactly. The QX4 has a center-differential instead of a standard transfer-case. That means that power is not necessarily distributed 50/50 front and rear like on the Pathfinders. It can be "locked" to achieve this, however. The "locking" of the center-differential is not the same as a "locking diff." A "locking diff" goes in the axles. No Pathfinder (or sister vehicle) has ever come with a "locking diff" from Nissan.

I've seen people put Terry cotton towels between the ropes and their paint to prevent scratching.

I'm not too familiar with the turbo system on the diesels, but I can at least attempt to answer this one question. Usually not. You'll likely have to have the computer reprogrammed to allow for different fuel mapping to account for the higher boost levels. Also, with higher boost levels, you'll be smart to invest in a turbo timer of some sort to allow the engine and turbo to properly cool after a drive.