vengeful

Damn skippy! -alcohol-

Yeah...yer alright!

It sounds like it was vapor locked. Too much air in the system from sucking air through the injectors when it ran out of gas. Removing the injector released the pressure in the combustion chambers and allowed it to start again.

Walk in there with the warranty paperwork from Nissan. Tell the service manager, that you have a crack in your exhaust manifold, and you expect them to honor the warranty, or you're going to call Nissan Corporate again.

It's not just opinion. It's a proven scientific FACT!

EGT = Exhaust Gas Temperature The SAFC might tell you, however to be sure you need to have an A/F Ratio Gauge. Hold off on getting one until you know whether the SAFC will tell you or not.

A loose gas cap wouldn't trigger 1447. It would trigger 1440, EVAP System Small Leak, which is what happens when the system cannot maintain proper pressure (as when the gas cap is loose). Purge Flow is related to the Purge Control Valve (Not to be mistaken with the PCV Valve). Test the Purge Control valve using the procedure outlined in your FSM. Check out the diagnostic procedures in your FSM for the proper diagnosis of that DTC. You know where to get one if you don't have one.

The Class 3 hitch will pull 5,000lbs. The class 2 will pull 3,000lbs. Those numbers are wrong.

Bound bumper is stupid for bumpstop.

Ok, I TOTALLY forgot about this...and I'm bringing it back up now. I want everyone to post links to all the Nissan and Off-Road clubs and websites you know about. Once we get a nice list together, I'll sticky it. I'll start: NIORA - Northeast Import Off-Road Association - I co-founded this club and I'm currently President. We recently restructured the club to be open to any 4x4 vehicle of any make, model or continental origin. Nissans are still the vast majority. NOAS - Nissan Offroad Association of the Southeast - Nissan Only club based in the Southeast U.S. I'm currently Vice-President of the club, and another one of our club officers is competing next week in the Real Truck Club Challenge at The Badlands Offroad Park in Attica, IN. UNYX - Upstate New York Xterra Club - This club has events very frequently, and is rather family oriented (but in a good way). They are not solely a wheeling club, but more a group of friends that loves to do stuff together. They're currently planning a Winery Tour. Nissan4Wheelers.com/SWANKy - The majority of the members on this site are located in Arizona, so most of the events are focused in that area. There is a WEALTH of technical information on this site, and these guys have perfected the art of the SAS, and have it completely documented. NEXterra - New England Xterra Club? NE4WD - Northeast Four-Wheel-Drive - This is the organization that runs the Nor'Easter. 4x4Parts.com/Automotive Customizers/AC - Source for Nissan aftermarket parts. Shrockworks - Source for aftermarket Nissan armor. Black Panther Armor - Source for Nissan skidplates and armor. More to come....

Waste of money. They clunk a lot and make tons of noise. And they're not really any easier than just unbolting one of the links.

Dude...you've got the skinniest arm ever. Do you eat?!

Are you sure you didn't end up purchasing the CRANKSHAFT position sensor?

It'll do just fine. I towed a 4,500lb trailer, along with another 1,000lbs in my Pathy through the Poconos in PA. Got absolutely DEPLORABLE gas mileage and it was slow going, but it did just fine.

I reset the trip odo every fill-up, too. Helps me to more accurately keep a log of my purchases and track fuel economy. Which has spiked +3mpg freeway since I took off my roof rack!

Well...you've certainly got the rig for it now!

Nope....but you can. http://www.phatg20.net/modules.php?name=Do...download&cid=76

First of all, welcome aboard! I don't have the time to look through the book right now to find it, but here's a link to the PDF version of the Nissan Factory Service manual for the 1999. Click on fwd98.PDF to open it on your computer. Each of the contents items is a hyperlink to the referenced section. As an alternative, you can navigate up one level, and right click on the 1999 folder and save it to your hard disk for reference in the future. Total size is about 40MB. http://www.fnd4pth.com/R50/FSM/1999/

There's the spirit! We can all relate to your plight of poor gas mileage. I realized a 2mpg increase simply by reducing my freeway speeds from 65-70mph to 55-60 mph. I also realized another 2-3mpg increase by removing the sail from my roof (aka, big heavy, draggy, wind catching, speed robbing, power eating roof rack). Before, I was seeing approximately 14mpg across the board, no matter what speed I drove as long as I kept it under 75mph. Now I'm experiencing about 19mpg at speeds between 55-60mph. The truck coasts much better (not as much wind resistance), holds speed better, uses less gas, accelerates faster and handles better. I just gotta get used to the silly naked look. The best, and only proven ways to increase (or at least to not hinder) your fuel economy is to keep your tires properly inflated, keep the fluids in good shape, keep your vehicle in good mechanical condition, and to have a light foot. Don't stomp on the gas at red lights, drive slower, draft off of big-rigs. I once got 24mpg on a trip from NJ to VA doing that the whole way. Installing Manual hubs and replacing the grease in your wheel bearings with synthetic helps a bit, too.

I'll take a Paul Garamond Celebration if you've got one I've already got the Scotch. Hmm...if gas get's much more expensive...I wonder if my Pathy will run on Scotch. I know I will

I think you've got that backwards. You want the 3.0 heads on a 3.3 block.

They'll fit fine. I had 31x10.50x15" tires on my 99 for over a year before I lifted it without a single problem, no rubbing at all.

The poor sound quality is due to a number of different things. 1.) Speaker level inputs to the amps. The amp has to double-translate the signal from the speaker level input. It has to translate it to a signal input, and then back into an amplified speaker output. When you replace the head unit, use RCA level inputs to the Amp to eliminate the first level of translation and your sound quality will improve. 2.) Rattling/buzzing - most likely due to a loose component somewhere, or something contacting the speaker itself. Your best bet is to remove the door panels again, and place some dynamat (or something along the lines of Dynamat...I used FatMat (available on eBay for relatively cheap) in my whole truck, and it made a HUGE difference in damping vibrations and reverberations) inside of the door, but not on the speaker. Put something between the speaker body and the door itself. A small wood ring of sorts will help prevent the speaker from vibrating in its mounts. They sell these devices called "speaker baffles" that go around the back side of the speaker to help "point" the sound outwards. 3.) The factory head unit puts out a miserably low sound signal, which corresponds to distortion and muddling of your sound. It may sound fine with the stock speakers, which are generally made of a paper cone and foam surround, but when you're pushing speakers that require more power (composite cone, and rubber surround, along with a stronger magnet) they distort more easily with less power. Did you use Automotive speaker wire, or just regular speaker wire? The Automotive stuff is more expensive, but it is also shielded to prevent interference from other sources.

There was no need to start a new topic to say that. Please continue to keep the same topic of discussion within one topic. Thanks.

Quit your postwhoring Cory.