vengeful

You don't have to do anything with the ashtray! http://www.fnd4pth.com/R50/FSM/2004/bt.pdf <-- Right Click, Save As That's for a 2004, but it'll be the same for you. There's a diagram on BT-26. There are two metal clips at the bottom edge where are circled above. There are two screws behind the HVAC Vents above that center panel with the clock in it. That assembly is only held in by a metal clip. Just pull, hard. You won't break it.

If you didn't replace it with a Nissan OE Gas Cap, it'll trigger the MIL. The Nissan one is specifically designed with a pressure valve in it to maintain the proper fuel system pressure. If you used an aftermarket one, it won't work properly. Also, are you sure it's your gas cap? There are many codes that "Could be a loose gas cap." according to an AutoZone doofus. What is the code it is tripping, exactly?

If your gas cap wasn't properly tightened, it would trigger the MIL. It could be as simple as that. Also, you can check the codes by turning the screw on the ECM to Diagnostic Mode 2, and it'll flash the MIL in a pattern and give you the codes. That will also reset it if you turn it back counterclockwise. The procedure is in the FSM.

The standard Dueler A/Ts are geared more towards street driving. They're a glorified All-Season tire. Closest comparison is the BFGoodrich Long Trail TAs. The Dueler A/T Revos are a much better all-around tire, and you'll pay for the superiority. They offer just about the best in snow/ice/wet traction from a non-snow-only tire currently on the market. They're also a 3-ply construction, as opposed to a 2-ply of the Standard A/Ts. They're closest competition is the BFGoodrich All-Terrain TA KOs.

If you want it constant-hot, you'll have to run a lead from the battery. There are two screws at the bottom of the cover panel, and two at the top behind the HVAC Vents which will have to be pulled out in order to access them. If you're not looking for a constant-hot, the cig. lighter is a good spot to tap into.

RUUUUUUUUUUUUN!!!!!!!1

Don't trust the literature at Amazon.com for any sort of techical anything. Those are advertisements put up by private parties, who in all likelihood don't know what the hell they're talking about. The RS9000X is a 9-way adjustable shock. The X is very important, as that is the adjustability designation. Without the X it is not adjustable, and provides for a very harsh ride. If you order them from AC, you'll get the right ones.

Actually, there are two types of RS9000. There's the plain RS9000, and then there's the RS9000x. The RS9000x is a 9-way adjustable shock. The plain RS5000 and 9000 are not adjustable. I had the RS9000x installed and they were great for about 50,000 miles. After 50k or so they started to degrade very quickly, and the adjustment became stuck on a very soft setting. While they were properly operational, I really liked them. The only reason I did not buy them again is I wanted a longer shock for more articulation. If your OEM coils have more than 50,000 miles, especially since the truck was used to tow, and probably carry some substantial loads, they are very likely fatigued. Fatigued coils will not perform nearly as well as new coils. If you carry a lot of heavy loads, or do any towing, I suggest getting the Old Man Emu medium duty rear coils. They'll be a stronger coil than the OEM and will be able to support weight much better. They're also less prone to pre-mature fatigue.

There's a plastic gear rope that pushes the antenna up and down. It's likely broken, which means you have to replace the mast and gear rope. You can get them for like $15 on eBay.

Not at all. Just posting it for the benefit of the community.

Those are questions you're going to have to address to Kyle.

I agree with much of what you've said Dean. I am not a big fan of how far it sticks out, or the mounting of it. I like the way the TJM mounts much better. It's a lot more solid. I've heard some horror stories about TJMs and ARBs bending under heavy winching forces though. I'm not sure how substantiated those stories are, because I've never actually seen it.

Back when Medhi was running the place, I got in a big fight with him and he kicked me off the boards...LOL.

I'm not welcome there, and I think I have an old email address there.

Well, you should know by now that TJM has disowned us. Any hope of finding a TJM is a Scratch-n-Dent from TJM or a used one on eBay. Aside from Custom, and the potential BlackPanther bumper, which is on an indefinite hold as of now, since Marcel lost his R50, this is the only winch bumper option.

Damn Skippy!

Yeah...Those are scary! I contacted Proflex Suspensions a while back. They make the suspension for the Dakar Rally R50s. I inquired about custom coilovers and gave them the specs I wanted. I was quoted $3,000US for a pair of fronts. That's what you'd get though...and those are SEXY.

Non-Vacuum Disconnect HPD44 from a Grand Wagoneer is what most people use.

The bumpers are available in 3 varieties. Wincher, Plain and with an integrated reciever. They are all the same price.

They definitely look like good quality components though. You say, $1100 for all four? That's wicked cheap. I'd almost be concerned with quality at that cheap...

Can of worms is an understatement...haha. Those look interesting, but they don't seem to be very off-road oriented. They seem to be more performance oriented.

Yes, it would make them heavier, but it would make them a lot more rigid and stronger, too. You wouldn't be running the VG33 with that setup. You'd be running either the 351 out of the Bronco, or some other V8 of your choice. Factory curb weight for a 4WD SE R50 is about 4,200lbs. The LE is slightly heavier, and the XE is slightly lighter. These are for 4WD models. 2WD is about 400lbs lighter. The Factory curb weight of a 1996 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) Sport 4WD 4-Door is about 3,000lbs. So yes, the R50 is already considerably heavier than the XJ, but it's also a much more comfortable vehicle. If you're going to be SAS'ing, you can lose several hundred pounds of weight by eliminating a lot of the sound insulation material. Also, the weight of the R50 and the axle torque would make a Dana35 a very poor choice.

4" lift coils in the front would completely max out the struts and your truck would ride horribly. If you could find or make custom struts, and you dropped the diff, I don't see any reason why it couldn't be done. You'd also want longer shocks in the rear to account for the higher ride height. I'm interested in finding out more about what you know about the Coilover option. Send me a PM or post up.

I'm just good like that.