Kingman

All VG blocks are not the same. The pre-'86 Z31 blocks had different mounting bosses for the motor mounts. After that, they were all unified so they would work. The Pathfinder motor mounts lined up somewhat closely on one side, but not enough to work and the other side wasn't close enough to be safe. Comparing the two blocks next to each other showed how different the bosses really were. The modifications made to the mounts. Holes were drilled at the end of each added piece to fit the nearest boss in the block. It was a pain in the ass... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Instead of hammering out the firewall I decided to take a little harder but probably safer and better looking route. I need to build a sheet metal box to fit inside the firewall after a square hole is cut in it to fit the back of the intake. The box will need to be 11" wide, 1.5" deep (giving room in back), and 6" tall. After the box is made I'll put some rubber insulator behind the box flanges and screw it in to the firewall.

Rim size on a WD21 is 15x7 (31x10.50x15) or 15x6 (237/75/R15). I believe both run a factory backspacing of 3.75", however it's been disputed a few times on here. Lug pattern is 6x5.5 for both. The "lego" SE wheels that are on right now, are the 15x7s meant to have the 31s on them.

Sorry, couldn't help it.

EGR has nothing to do with oil. You're talking about the PCV system. Chris, replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor... I'd be willing to bet it's malfunctioning and is just telling the computer to dump the fuel in.

Thanks man. All the lower end parts were practically the same besides the oil pan, nothing else needed to be changed besides that and some custom motor mounts made. I've had the motor it's self in for about 4K miles now.

I love wiring diagrams. Not.

Yeah, the heating element is mostly for burning the carbon off the fins. They heat to around 1800F to do it.

6" away compared to almost 2.5' away for the factory Z31 location is a major difference. But the project is on hold, my mom had a cow about me even working on it at the house so I have to tow it somewhere else to finish it up. She said she doesn't want to look bad around the neighbors, but we're at the very end of a gravel road in the woods. Oh well, she pays the bills so whatever she says goes...

Yes, it is how it works. The MAF measure how much air is flowing past it. When the sensor is at the end of the intake, there is lag time between when you stomp on the gas and the air actually being sucked in from the outside. The sensor cannot measure anything until air is flowing past it. Like I said, when the vacuum inside the engine decreases (variable vacuum through the throttle plate) the air inside of the intake tube expands and thins out as it's being sucked in, when when the air expands all the way out and the vacuum reaches the outside of the intake it then sucks fresh air in and flows past the MAF sensor. Moving the sensor as close as you can to the TB opening will increase throttle response, because the time it takes for the air to be expanded and sucked in is a lot less. The sensor registers it much faster that way. It's physics, there are MANY books and manuals about this kind of stuff to back up what I'm saying.

One thing you can do, at least here in Washington, is go to the DMV/DOL with the owner and have them file for a lost title. They will then have it on record, and if you provide them with a bill of sale signed by both parties there's nothing to dispute.

Yes, the Pathfinder intake does flow a little more in the bottom end due to the longer runners. However it doesn't distribute the air as evenly as the factory Z31 intake to all the cylinders so it almost evens out. A gutted intake flows way more, and using a 200SXSE 60MM throttle body with a gutted intake gives a pretty decent performance gain, and better throttle response. With the intake I'll probably be moving more towards 300ZX mods, rather than Pathfinder engine mods. Especially a turbo... Another thing I'll be doing is moving the MAF sensor to within 6" from the throttle body opening. Much better throttle response and more accurate measurements from the sensor. When you stomp on the gas it'll instantly recognize it and compensate, rather than waiting for the air inside the entire intake to be sucked in, expanded, and then the outside air from the filter being sucked in and then reading that.

The truck looks good, and I think what I'm hearing is a really bad exhaust leak. Didn't sound like anything really mechanical but I can't tell too well from the video.

I've never heard of a "kit" to change the belt sprockets, but the difference is the '86.5-'93s use a square tooth style, and the '94+ use a round tooth. I believe all is needed for the swap is the cam sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket. However, Nissan put out 6 different crank snouts which complicates things quite a bit. There's no FSM for a TBI Pathfinder online that I'm aware of, but there is an FSM available for a 1994 online at www.pdftown.com. Some things will be similar, but a lot is different between the TBI and MPFI injection systems. 235/75/15 or 31x10.50x15. Lug pattern is 6x5.5. Toyota uses the same pattern, so wheels are interchangeable. Older GMs do as well, but their hubs are smaller in size. 4-wheel is engaged by pulling the lever next to the gear shifter back. It's all manual linkage. A somewhat common problem is when the 4-wheel drive hasn't been used in a long time, the linkage arms rust and bind up making it very difficult to move.

Don't have a sledgehammer at the house, a friend is bringing me one tomorrow to start notching out the firewall. That should be the exciting part... I've got a coolant elbow to work out for the heater core, nothing too major. Nismopu is going to stop by tomorrow and take a look at things, since he's done two Hardbody-Z31 swaps before.

$18. I don't have $18 at the moment, because I lost my debit card last night. I'll also have to change distributors and notch out the rocker cover.

I may have to. The guy I've been talking with that's done it before said there was about 1-2" of clearance between the firewall and the heater core, and the heater core is below where the firewall needs to me "massaged." A problem with running Z31 wiring and a Pathfinder plenum is that some of the sensors are different, and I'd have to rewire even more stuff... Plus, I don't have any money to buy a new plenum...

Well, some background info first. I spun a rod bearing on the stock motor at 194K, and swapped in a motor from an '84 Z31 (300ZX) with only 102K. The bare minimum to get the truck back on the road was to keep the factory TBI set up, which is being a little problematic. I've always wanted to swap in a Z31 intake set up even before I blew the motor, so this worked out perfectly. I found the 300ZX on Craigslist for parts, and the guy said he'd take $100 for the motor. However, since his job schedule kept changing he wasn't able to work on the car to pull the motor out for me, so he said that if I came and yanked it I could have the motor for free. I've got a TON of wiring to sort through yet, but it'll be easier once the manifold and stuff is on so the placement will all be correct, to help figure out what goes where. At the moment I'm having an issue with the rear hard line coolant hoses hitting the firewall. I can use the other factory lines if I bypass the coolant lines going through the throttle body. I've heard of a lot of people doing this without any problems.... There's also an issue of fuel pump wiring and some wiring for the gauge cluster that I'll need to sort through and remove from the TBI harness as I slowly work it out of the equation. I've done a lot of research on Z31performance.com, mostly for wiring harness diagrams, pin outs, and what other people have removed/changed to make these intakes work with other vehicles. There's going to be an issue with the air intake tubing as well, the factory Z31 uses some extreme angles that just will not work on a Pathfinder. I'll figure something out, but likely my truck won't be back on the road for a while now. So far: Original TBI set up. Entire intake removed. The Z31 intake prepped to go on. I'll keep posting pictures and updates as the project goes on. I'm hoping someone who's maybe planning on doing the same thing can learn something from my mistakes and I'll try my best to post specific changes needed for it all to work.

Glad you got it back on the road, but make sure this is the only time your rig has to go under the knife. I know how it is to replace one of these transmissions laying on burning hot asphalt, not fun. I would hate to see you have to do it again or fork out the money for a new transmission. I'd flush the fluid a few more times to be safe, any debris at all can ruin parts in just about no time flat. I'm pretty surprised to hear the torque converter blew out in the first place...

Yes. Automatics and manuals alike. You are correct, the problem with the fill hole was with the WD transmissions, but it's fixed by either relocating the fill hole or filling the transmission from the top, through the access panel where the center console is. Karman, you may notice during your swap a sensor that's attached to the bell housing of the newer '96 transmission. Don't worry about it, WDs didn't use this sensor so feel free to cut the wiring off. You could remove it, but you'd be left with a hole to fill. Another thing you might come across is a steel block, bolted to a rubber insulator on the bottom side of the transfer case (assuming the transfer case is coming with it). That's a mount for a cross member on the R50s only, again you can feel free to remove it as it doesn't attach to anything on the WD.

Welcome man! Alaska, eh? Lucky! First off, the VGs use a timing belt that requires being replaced every 60,000 miles and it's also wise to replace the water pump at the same time. This leads to it being an interference engine, if that belt snaps it will likely ruin the engine. The idle racing is probably the MAF sensor and wiring, which is found on the driver's side of the throttle body. Over time the wires become brittle or corroded and loose connection. Mine did the same thing. Here's a link for a pretty in-depth description of all the TBI components and what they do. http://npora.ipbhost...=1entry416253 The lifters are hydraulic and if it's been sitting for a while it wouldn't surprise me if they're a little dry on oil. Making sure it's full and a good flush/change should help some. Running it low on oil will also risk severely damaging the lower end components since the bearing tolerances are so tight, and they are aluminum and gall very easy. When I first got my Pathfinder and changed the oil, it came out as black nasty sludge. Some 20,000 miles later at 194K it spun a rod bearing. Oil is very important. Power steering pumps are easy to replace, but you must flush the entire system at least twice to get all the debris out. If not, you'll run into problems with it again down the road. I somehow managed to snap the shaft inside of the pump, and since it was such a clean break I didn't focus too hard on flushing. It bit me in the ass within 3 months. I'm getting close to having to replace the pump again, but this time do some serious flushing and/or replace the entire system. It can be expensive at first but is less expensive in the long run. There's no reason why you cannot install an automatic engine into a manual chassis. There is one thing that must be taken care of though, and that's a flex plate locating bushing/spacer that's pressed into the back of the automatic blocks. This must be removed and a pilot bushing installed, I installed an engine from an automatic '84 300ZX and forgot to do this. What the pilot bushing does is support the front of the transmission input shaft and aligns it throughout the transmission. Without it, gears will grind and it will eventually destroy the transmission. I had to pull the motor again and do this, all over a $2 part. That bushing has a tendency to rust in and from the factory it's pressed in with a lot of force. Another cause of noise/ticking is the exhaust manifold studs snapping. If this happens it will tick for a while until warm and subside, but sometimes won't go away. Drilling out the hole and extracting the broken studs is the only real fix. One last suggestion, search around here for some information. It's best to use the advanced feature and select only the topic titles, as well as include a + between specific words to keep results more precise. Good luck!

Because the speed sensor is located on the side of the transfer case, his '95 dash is electronic meaning the speed sensors are the same and will work with each other. Pre '94s require you to either somehow swap the old mechanical sensor in the new transfer case or re-use the original transfer case all together. Most people find the second option easier as the aluminum corrodes the sensor to the body of the case, which is what I found when installing a '98 transmission into an '88 with. It's one thing a lot of people miss when swapping different year transmissions.

Lol clown is right. But whatever suits your style man. One question though, why is this in the SAS and hardcore custom fab section...?

Yes. 100% compatible. You have an electronic speedometer sensor so that won't be an issue either. Good luck with the swap.

Dexron III has not been superseded by anything. It's still out there, on a shelf in almost any store. That's all power steering fluid is as well. I believe you put transmission fluid in the transfer case when you have an auto, in case a seal were to start leaking and transfer fluids. At least that's what I've read multiple times in threads on this forum. I used the search function and found 8 pages of threads with information on fluids...

There's actually quite a few threads on this. Personally I would drop the whole thing and use 3M spray adhesive, and work the vinyl smooth of wrinkles.