Kingman

What?

I greatly enjoy smoking out the rich and stuck up yuppy neighborhoods my dad lives in.

I put a transmission in an '88 because it suddenly lost third and fourth gear pulling on to a highway. Shifted into third then boom back in to second and almost red lined the engine. Reverse still worked beautifully. Reverse failing first is a good indicator of the transmission starting to fail as it requires the most line pressure to engage. But it's definitely not always the case.

False.

Ask MY1PATH about that and he'll say you're wrong. He stayed a week with his wife and baby at my house because his transmission suddenly failed on a trip down to California, thankfully it failed right around the corner from my house... 170 miles away from home with another 500 to go. It was a matter of pulling off the highway to get gas. It drove fine on the way in but it was toast when they tried to leave. This was at 218K miles so you still have a long ways to go before even worrying about a transmission failure, especially if it's been taken good care of like you say. Run an aftermarket transmission cooler, at least 16K LBS, a filter, and for good measure drop the pan and make sure there's no particles of clutches. You should be good to go for a long time.

If the rear trailing arm bushings are shot the truck will swerve when you stab the throttle.

Then your phone is a POS. No way in hell that's 14% off on a less than 1" (actual size) smaller tire.

There's a few threads around here covering oil and filters in depth, so search around a little on that. I use NAPA Gold filters, they're made by Wix.

Fram filter is your first problem, Lucas is your second. On cold starts and cold weather thinner oil gets pumped up to the lifters faster. Some VGs just clatter no matter what.

Have you pulled each fuse out one at a time to see if any stops the power draw? As for the buzzing blinkers, a bad hazard light switch can cause that if it wasn't just a dead battery.

Right on the back of the EGR valve. It's what connects it to the tube running to the driver side exhaust manifold.

Shaft and rocker arms, yes.

Lifter(s) collapsing at idle or excessive wear in the rocker arm shafts allowing the rocker arms to twist. Pop the valve covers off and turn the engine over as each valve closes, then wiggle the rocker arms. If there's a lot of play side to side then that's probably your issue. Here's a video of what I'm talking about. The furthest right rocker arm has WAY too much play in it, the middle is okay but getting there. Both valves are closed. This is on a 115K mile engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jVdb_7fn-aI&feature=youtu.be

I read your first post. I replied 3 days later. A 1 1/16" or 1 1/8" wrench to get the big nut off holding the tubes together.

Is it going to run? Can't wait to see it run.

Did you get the EGR tube off?

Interesting. That's electronic too.

I'd check to make sure all of the electrical connections to the tranny and the TCU are good. May have gone in to limp mode for some reason.

Lol right? Thank GOD it didn't do anything!

Ran into it with an X5...

The axles are the same, if you look the diff is off centered but the tubes are different lengths so the flanges end up exactly in the same spot on either side.

Ignition switch maybe? Try unplugging your distributor and see if the relays click off when you do.

It's a major problem. No grease will destroy the bushings in a few thousand miles. Seriously, take them back out and do it right.

Mr.510.

Did you grease them with their grease? I replaced mine with the split bushings recently, not a single negative about it. There shouldn't be either.