Kingman

I think that's the fast idle screw. When I adjusted mine, I didn't know about the lower screw, and when the truck was warm, it would idle at 900rpm after adjusting. The next morning I started it and it idled in park at 2 grand, then 1500 in drive. I'm under the impression that adjusts the idle for the engine being cold (screw facing the sky), and the other one adjusts the idle for being warm (facing the fender) I'm sure someone on here who knows more about this will chime in eventually, but that's just my general take on it

I had to mess with both of them a little to get my rpms where I wanted it. A little tuning and detuning on both of those screws seemed to work

That's the other thing I forgot to mention. Here in Washington, the wheels can't stick out past the fender wells 3" or it's illegal. Stock Pathfinder wheels shouldn't stick out more than an inch, which I think is what mine are at.

I mention the MAF sensor cleaning because it can mess up the air readings and do stupid things to it, sputtering, idling funky, etc. There's a how-to somewhere on here. Mine was running slightly...off before I cleaned my MAF. Once I did that, it had a little more power and ran smoother. I still think the smell of fuel constantly means it's dumping too much gas into the engine and not all of it is burning as it should, hence the sputtering issue. Or, like the mechanic said, it's not getting the correct amount of spark ignition it should, and not burning the normal amount of gas the engine is getting. It could go both ways. Replacing the wires sounds pretty viable I suppose, that's something to try. If it improves, well there's your answer. If it doesn't...well... IF your year truck has the temp sensor, I still have a feeling that might be it. It was incredibly intermittent. I went through this hassle with mine, replacing a lot of things that would, in common sense, fix the problem. The temp sensor was the last thing I had expected, then wham it totally gave out and I was stranded, and hit with a rather huge repair bill.

Have you taken off your MAF sensor and *cleaned* it recently? Also, have you noticed and decrease in gas mileage this entire time?

No, unless in your state its illegal to run without fender flares or mud flaps. I think these things look a little tougher without them really. I found it simpler to clean the fender wells with them off as well, since a butt load of mud usually catches on the flares.

That's Nissan for ya...

Heh, tell me about it...it was 15* the other day, got on the freeway for my nice long journey to school WHICH WE WEREN'T SUPPOSED TO HAVE IN THE FIRST PLACE! and noticed my heater wasn't working. Awwww @!*%, that sucks! Then my temp gauge started going up and up, at this time I'm doing 65 and the exit isn't for another half mile. The sides of the freeway are sheets of nice next to a concrete barrier. Ouch? By the time I get off the freeway, temp is banked completely, and the roads are covered in ice. Great. Finally get into a neighborhood and shut her down. Coolant boiling...sweet. Let it sit for an hour with the hood open in cold ass weather with no heater, I drive it the short distance back to my house, and right as I enter my neighborhood, the heat comes back and my temp instantly goes down. Funny thing, when I replaced the bypass coolant hose, I had refilled it with water so I didn't waste coolant in case there was a leak. But it wasn't ALL water, just whatever had come out. I knew I was forgetting something... So moral of the story, DON'T FORGET TO PUT ANTI FREEZE BACK IN YOUR RADIATOR!

Just what I was asking Thanks

x2, mine sticks around 1/4 to 1/3 all the time now since I did all the work on the coolant system. Because of the cold, its running just a weeeee bit colder than in the summertime. Unless your thermostat freezes shut like mine did the other day. Not good...

Yeah, i'd vote for the thermostat on this one, simply because like i said it takes waaaaaay longer for coolant to heat up if its being exposed to subfreezing temps while still cold and not being heated inside the engine first. Did you look to see if the housing was the same on yours as on mine?

Thinking about it, coolant not flowing would only equal over heating, because the coolant inside the engine isn't getting out and being cooled by the outside air.

Welllllll if the front housing is the same with the VG30E as is the VG30 I, its not hard at all. Right under the timing belt cover is a triangular (sort of-ish) looking metal housing with a short rubber hose heading downwards and then a metal tube going to the radiator, that's it. Here's what mine looks like, just undo the hose, drain the coolant, unbolt the housing (3 bolts) and remove it. Then, take out the old thermostat, and use a razor or gasket remover to scrape all the old gasket residue from the housing, on both sides (the one side that's still attatched to the block, and the other half that you just took off). Apply the gasket sealer, and gasket, and put in the thermostat the only way it'll fit properly. Common sense should work with which way it inserts. Then, reassemble the opposite of how you took it off. Fill the radiator up, start the engine, turn on the heater to hot, and let the coolant flow, and keep filling until full. Turning on the heater rids the air bubbles from the lines in most cases. I got my thermostat for $9 at Costless, and the gasket and sealer was like $3 or something.

x2, how long did it actually run for? Freezing temperature coolant takes quite a long time to become warm, especially if its constantly flowing while cold, and not having a chance to heat up in the engine block before circulating.

Hmmmm...usually motors run too hot if anything, not too cold. Do any hoses look bloated? Try blocking the entire radiator, used to do that with my Explorer when it was extremely cold out, never had a problem overheating at idle either.

So...with my '87, in order to install some of those aircraft lights I'd have to...?

Hmmm...I have yet to run in to this issue...they still work just as fast as warm weather. Schhhweeeeeeet! Now if I could say that about everything else on this f!@#$n thing

lmao pretty much!

lol, it didn't register that NOT wasn't in that sentence until you just pointed it out.

If they're the ones who ripped the stud off in the first place, they should be the ones to replace it free of charge.

Sounds like mine... How much was the pump and where did you get it at?

...

Taking a closer look at it, it's idling at 1150 in park, not 1300. I misread the number of lines Sorry about that...

I've had the idle set higher for months now, in case you're thinking I just did it because it's acting up. It idles at 800 in drive, so that's pretty baseline right? The rpms themselves that is, regardless of the tranny position. It's also very hard for me to even get a solid rpm, because I think there's some sensor that's going nuts with it, when I set it to its lowest, sometimes it will idle at 400rpm, and then jump to 700rpm in drive, and then back down...I have a thread about that as well. But right now it's running fine, I'm not going to touch a single thing until it acts up again on its own.

Once again, I put it there