Kingman

Oh they're no where near $100, I got mine for $35... 18,000lb cooler. I've actually never seen them above $50, even for a 25,000lb cooler. That's also from going to multiple auto parts stores.

The battery is fine, 12.6V as usual. The new alternator is simply not charging at all unless I rev it up and then it's like someone flipped a switch and everything brightens and it starts charging. I tried not revving it after starting and the voltage continued to drop, as if the truck was running off the battery and not the alternator.

I installed a new 90 amp alternator for a 1993 SOHC Maxima. I ran into the problem of the V belt pulley rubbing on the casing of the alternator, so I cut a piece of brass pipe to fit as a spacer and it worked fine. I also had to grind the tensioner bracket down a little to fit the casing better. So now I have a weird problem. When first starting it up, it didn't charge at all. Lights were dim, voltage at less than 12V. however, at exactly 3300 rpm the voltage jumps up to normal and the lights brighen up, and brighten up a lot. Definitely an extreme improvement. If I turn the truck back off and re-start, the voltage drops to 12 until I rev it again. Then it charges perfectly fine, even at idle, until I turn it off again. Weird? The Pathfinder pulley isn't very much smaller than the serpentine belt pulley it originally came with meant for the Maxima. All the connections are good, tight, and clean. Any ideas?

Hmmm, neither did mine! Kinda funny though that 4Runners and Pathfinders alike are known for their badly sagging ass ends. Definitely mus be a Japanese manufacturer thing. It would be cool to swap some heated seats in to my truck, but I can't find any that are blue!

I too was shocked when looking inside the top of the line WDs and found they didn't have power seats. Almost every other manufacturer of comparable SUVs besides Toyota had power seats back then, so why not Nissan? My '93 Explorer had 10-way power seats, both sides! Even side bolster and thigh extension adjustments! It must have been only an American manufacturer thing...

It's the stock tire size, so yes.

Hell, I say use it! Surely our engines can handle it, it would be interesting to see how fast one of these things can go on the bottle. But you could make a good chunk of change with the bottles.

I know someone who has one, he just has to make damn sure the truck is in neutral before he pushes the button. He slammed some car in a parking lot because he started it when exiting the store and we see it lurch forward and slam into the right in front of him.

Well, the engine is designed to be ran on 87 octane so I wouldn't think there would be any problems with it. We just don't have the high compression ratio to warrant high-octane fuel.

Seafoam is awesome stuf...used it on 3 different rigs with great results.

That's not the first time I've seen those re-treads blow up. I usually throw a couple of those away a month... Good thing it didn't cause any extreme damage or cause you to flip!

Sorry, can't hear anything out of the ordinary on that video. But it does sound good!

Where are you going to put the inlet for the cold air?

I asked the guy what I needed to cut the bass out of my speakers because they are distorting, and that's what he said. 100V 50uF non-polarized capacitors for the 4x6s and 150V 50uF non-polarized capacitors for the 6x9s.

Sony Xplod 1200W peak 12" sub. 150W peak Autotek amp, extremely well made on the inside. One channel is powering the sub. I've been researching for a while to find out which wires I can safely bridge so I don't fry the amp.

It looks like the factory amp has been bypassed, but the wiring is stock. I didn't install any wiring, tohugh I need to re-wire everything.

Because of the fin style cooler, it cannot be flushed once it is clogged. The RE4R01A transmissions are known to generate more debris, causing thenm to clog.

There's a fuse for the brake lights labeled STOP LAMP. Check to see if that fuse is good.

So I've been having the annoying issue of to much bass in my standard speakers, which are 2 Kenwood 6x9s rated at 250W max and 2 JBL 4x6s with an unknown rating, though they don't distort as much as the rear 6x9s do. I have a Panasonic deck that is rated at 45W per channel. I have my 12" subwoofer hooked up through the low level RCA outputs like usual, but I can't turn the bass up (past "0" with a range of -12 to 12) without the speakers distorting, thus not giving the sub very much power so it doesn't thump very hard unless the volume is all the way up and by then it's mayham. My first thought was to install high-pass capacitors in all the normal speakers to cut out the bass from them so I can turn the bass on the deck up and give my sub more juice. So I went to Audio Source today and bought 4 capacitors sized for the speakers and running a 12" subwoofer. They are properly installed on the positive feed to each speaker, but they are causing my speakers to cut out for split seconds at a time when I turn the volume up, like too little impedance to the deck would cause. It's extremely aggravating. Also, the capacitors didn't cut out very much bass and the speakers still distort like they did. Is there something I'm missing here? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

That is the ECU, the dial turns it to normal and diagnostic modes, and the green flashing light is an indicator. When you check your codes, that light and a red light will flash in sequence for the diagnostic codes. There's a how-to in the garage.

The white smoke is just condensation evaporating from inside the exhaust pipe as the engine warms up. It's completely normal.

Put a nice thick lining of grease on the stops and the noise will go way.

Your transfer case is missing?

Alright, now the next question is how many times does that lever move? Someone before you might have just found a ball that fit and stuck it on there. It should have 4 positions: all the way forward is 2HI, pull back one for 4HI, push DOWN and back one for neutral, and then back again for 4LO. If it truly only moves into 3 positions like is pictured, then you sir, have a one-off novelty...

My old truck was doing exactly what you described, at complete random. The problem was somehow the coil wire was rubbed down past the insulation and was arcing on a nearby piece of metal right up by the coil. It was sporadic, disabling, and irritating, and I was unable to find the problem until it did this for about 2 miles one night then completely died and would not restart. I had my buddy come to help me look and thank god it was dark because he was able to see the arcing of the wire as I cranked the engine. I wrapped that baby up good with electrical tape and didn't have another problem for a very long time - until the truck was destroyed.