Kingman

My old one remained off after the driver's side mounting bolt snapped when going around a clover-leaf getting on the freeway. It went bang and suddenly the truck dipped to the driver's side and it scared the piss out of me. Once I was used to it, I didn't noticed. But the sudden difference was noticeable.

Depends on how big it is...

The only number I can think of is a 2:1 reduction in the transfer case. Exactly. I've always liked the looks if the intake better than the ones in Pathfinders, and a hell of a lot better than the TBI system. I also believe the Z31s used a 3.7 gear ratio in the rear end.

Damn. I was hoping I might be on to something worthwhile and fun. Nevermind then...

There's only about a 400LB difference between the two. I was looking up stats and the Z31s produce 165HP compared to 140/153. I'd like to know what Nissan did to bump up the power on the motor with the same block and heads.

Hmmm, wonder why the car felt so much stronger than any Pathfinder I've driven... At least the intake looks a hell of a lot cooler.

I was looking at an '85 300ZX non-turbo 3.0L manual today, and I noticed that the intake system off of it looks like it could very easily be swapped into a Pathfinder. Once running somewhat decent, it had some serious boot-scoot to it. The distributor and coil are the same, though I believe the coil to be a much higher voltage capacity. The air intake is on the same side as well, and looks like it could easily be mounted to the stock location on the Pathfinder, and even uses the same filter box. Total engine width is about the same as well, I know the space issue is common with engine swaps into Pathfinders, which is why I mention it. It really looks like it could be a workable and straight forward swap. Any thoughts?

Yes, some definitely can reach high torques. I've tested one in my diesel tech class and it reached roughly 280ft/lbs. The spec for the bolt I tested it on was 106ft/lbs.

Sometimes they will short a little inside and not produce as much spark, but usually they will just fail when the windings inside feel they've had enough. Is it kind of like a zapping noise? Sounds like arching to me.

DOT3 and DOT4 are 100% interchangable, both are vegitable based and the only difference is DOT4 has a higher boiling point, which is shown through less brake fade and better pedal feel after hard stops, and absorbs less atmospheric moisture than DOT3, meaning the brake pressure remains more consistant over time by moving only brake fluid instead of built up water. DOT5 is a synthetic with an even higher boiling point and cannot be mixed with any other brake fluid. DOT4 is a better fluid to use for these reasons.

That is NOT a good idea. You can break/weaken bolts very easily that way... over-torquing stretches bolts so much they lose their elasticity and break under stress. The truck looks awesome man, and so the trails!

I wouldn't trust retreads to drive a half a mile down the road. I load countless amounts of blown up retreaded tires into the junk trailer where I work (Les Schwab). Not a good thing...

What exactly is a "quirt?" I would grab 2 quarts of DOT4 fluid, it's better to have too much than not enough. Having more allows a more torough job and gives some room for error.

1986.5-1990 (only to include the rare 2-door MPFI trucks). 2-doors all the way!

I'm guessing, from reading that everything powers up but the starter doesn't engage, that there's a faulty neutral or safety switch tripping and disengaging the starter circuit.

Yes, recommended. It's mainly due to how much the sidewall bulges or balloons when fitting a wider tire on to a thinner rim. It doesn't really pose any problems with a set up like yours though.

31s are a factory tire size, no you will not need to lift. Search around, you'll find most of the information you're looking for within tons of threads.

They will fit fine. Some people are running 32X11.50s on the XE 15x6 chrome wheels.

Yes they do. All electronically controlled motors have a MAF sensor. On the TBI it's located on the throttle body under the air cleaner.

Nice man. I see you called me but my crackberry won't let me answer calls... I gotta see it next time I drive up to my sisters...

No, if you have LSD and one tire loses traction the other should engage as well. What terrain were you in? Mud, gravel, sand, wet pavement? All of these terrains should almost guarantee the LSD kicks in. Sometimes on dry pavement the LSD isn't strong enough to hold both wheels together. Also, does your pumpkin have the LSD sticker on it, or have you jacked the rear end up to see if both wheels spin in the same direction? If the opposite wheel spins in the opposite direction, you do not have an LSD.

I'd imagine it's vacuum assisted, no? There should be mixture "doors" coming from the heater core that move when a signal is given to mix the hot and cold air flows to create an ambient temperature. Usually they are controlled by vacuum, which is first controlled by an electrical solenoid linked to the control knob. Change the temperature, the electronic signal is sent to a vacuum motor, which moves the doors around. That seems to be the most common set-up for climate control systems. Nissans may be different though.

Go to Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap-o multimeter. They are only a few bucks and cover all the general functions - volts AC and DC, amps, ohms (resistance), etc. Definitely a handy tool...

Hell, put a 55 gallon fuel cell in the back cargo area...