dhardison

Nice day and I'm off after working 7 straight days so I crawled under the Path and looked around. Should I be concerned about the rotted out torsion bar dust cover in the first pic? Are they hard to change? Anybody got a guess why there is oil on my cv joint in pic two? Everything else looks pretty good to me but I'm no expert so if you see anything else that looks bad or might be a future problem all help is appreciated.

What does this squeaking chirping sound like. In the first part of the video the engine is cold and it's louder. In the second section of the vid the engine has warmed up to operating temp and it quiets down some but never goes away. Also in the second part the ac cycles on and off a few times but that doesn't really change the sound. Only adds a little compressor noise to the mix.

My trucks previous owner had spilled some bleach on the cargo carpet and it looked like crap. I've complained in a previous post about the poor fit of my Weather Tech floor mats which aren't really a true custom fit mat for WD21s. Some $20 trim to fit Walmart mats I bought for my 95 Pathfinder I used to own fit better. After finding out what it was going to cost to have that carpet replaced with correct edge bound carpet I decided to go ahead and order the deep dish cargo mat from Weather Tech and give them a chance to redeem themselves. Checked first to make sure it was a true custom fit for my application unlike the floor mats. Fits nice and like all Weather Tech mats looks like it will last forever, or at least longer than the truck frame.

Here goes, like I said strange the head/parking lights have to be on for them to work but I guess in those early days there wasn't a "typical" way to do things.

I'm glad you're back. Now use your dealership resources and your excellent rust free geographical location to find a great replacement Pathfinder. You know you can't live without one. I know I couldn't.

There was a change in Homelink around 1999 or 2000 to better talk to "rolling code" garage doors. Basically any Homelink prior to 97 or 98 is useless with a "rolling code" door or gate. I've lived in a gated apartment with a garage for many years and programmed many Homelink systems to work the gate and garage door for myself and my neighbors on lots of different makes of vehicles. The system is the same, Homelink is licensed technology, no mater what make or model of car or were it's located, in the visor, or built in to the rear view mirror. The visor models use the same power supply as the visor vanity light. And that is why I haven't swapped out the visors in my old 93 Pathfinder with some Homelinks from a later model. WD21 Paths have the visor vanity light wired so they only come on when the parking or headlights are on. I guess I can see some reasoning behind this, why would you need the light during the day, but on every other car or truck I've ever seen the vanity lights come on whenever the visor switch is activated. This happens regardless of the vehicle light switch or ignition key position, even off. The homelink has a small internal backup battery so it won't lose your programming if the car loses power for a short time due to a dead battery or disconnected cables but it's pretty much got to have power 24/7 to remember the code you program in. I would have to change the visor wiring in my truck to a hot all the time connection and for me that's were it starts to turn into real work.

And I read somewhere that our latch assembly has the same part number as some models of a 240SX but I don't remember the years. Not the glass just the latch.

Yes and he's throwin in this Nissan pickup too. http://louisville.craigslist.org/cto/1680677920.html

It's a marketing strategy that's been around as long as they've been painting cars. Substitute the name of an expensive sounding red wine instead of dark red metallic. Or in my case of my old Pathfinder "black emerald pearl" means GREEN

Yep that's it I remember the back-lit gauges and the kick plates. I like to think I'm responsible for him choosing a Nissan. All those Christmases and Thanksgivings I showed up at grandma's driving a shiny new Max or Z-ZX while he was growing up.

Two years ago when my nephew turned 16 his grandmother, not my mother, bought him a vehicle for his birthday. He picked out what I guess was about a three year old Pathfinder that was black with black leather. The only time I sit in it back then it looked like it had every option you could get. We don't live in the same state and I see him even less now because he's a freshman at Ole Miss and away at school. I did make a mental note the only time I saw it that it had a VQ and I thought that was probably a good thing. The thing that has always puzzled me was it had a platinum edition badge on the fender or drivers door but only on the drivers side. So I have a few questions for the R50 people. 1. Was there an really a platinum edition? 2. Is it supposed to have a badge on each side and the passenger side is missing? 3. Was this just a marketing ploy to load up a Pathfinder with options and sell off the last of the R50s before the model change? I would ask him but he's car clueless and if it's just some dealer add on fake thing I don't want to embarrass him. I've seen some red 99 Maximas with a platinum badge but never another Pathfinder platinum except his.

That was my problem, fixed with a 3 dollar used one from pull-a-part.

The Nissan OEM replacement shocks are about $160 each net and probably listed for close to $300 each. Most people couldn't really justify spending that much on replacement shocks when there were better alternatives for less money. About the only thing I use my Sport setting for is really gusty windy days on the interstate. You know those days when it feels like you are driving a D21 pickup with a garden shed strapped on the back. It seems to offer a little more stability. The rest of the time sport just makes it ride rougher with no upside.

Check your shocks and if they don't have electrical connections and wires connected them you're just wasting your time because someone already changed the shocks out to standard shocks.

Right what silverton says, mine runs to that vacuum / solenoid valve, I think it's called the EGRC solenoid valve. Mine has three vacuum inputs the one by itself goes to the bottom of the throttle body. on the other side I have two, the bottom one goes to the intake duct that I think you are talking about and the top one goes to the EGR valve. It's got an electrical connector too. I'm not sure but I think the other big hose that disappears under the plenum is more valve cover blow-by piping that connects both valve covers and makes its way to the blow-by control valve that's screwed into the side of the plenum.

I think GM shipped new Chevy-GMC Tahoes, Yukons, Suburbans and trucks with a daytime running lamp pre burned out.

Just be careful this forum is addicting. Big enough to be interesting and personal but not so big you feel lost among a zillion others. And always full of knowledgeable Nissan folks.

Maybe start by extinguishing sparklers burning in the factory toolkit combination #6 plug tool - sparkler holder

Make sure you get and install the brace that is on the inside of the quarter panel. Saw a Pathfinder at pull-a-part once that had the tire carrier installed later. You could tell by the bolts they used it wasn't factory installed . Anyway without that support brace on the inside the weight of the tire and rack opening and closing had bent and kinked the quarter panel and it looked bad. I noticed it because I owned a 95 at the time that didn't have the rack and was thinking about installing one too.

I'd never buy something like a trans on CL unless it was in a truck I could drive to test it. If you buy it online make sure you pay for it with a credit card not a debit card. That way if it turns out to be bad you've got a chance at disputing the charge. Just my 2

It looks great and since I'm always about the details, run a band of masking tape about a half an inch up from where the tip increases diameter and shoot from there back. Paint the slim part of the tip, the clamp and as much of the exhaust pipe as you can see in the picture with high temp flat black paint.

Be sure the motor is getting power. If it is and it still won't come out then the nylon rope is probably broken and pieces have gotten jammed around the gear. You don't have to take it out to fix it but you will have to remove the inner fender to gain access to a side cover on the antennae gear assembly to remove the broken pieces. After you have the gear free just turn on the radio, thread the new antennae nylon into the hole while another person turns off the radio. As the gear turns to retract it will pull the new antennae down into the hole and you can reinstall the retaining washer and nut.

Here's a shot that shows my factory tailpipe. My truck still has the original factory exhaust except for the catalytic converter. It does stick out some but I've seen a lot worse.

Me too because this is kind of thing I've been a little confused about with our rare Tennessee snow days. The main highways will be clear and the back roads snowed in. Not always convenient to stop and back up when switching back and forth.

The factory fob, at least for 93's, only has two buttons. The lock/arm - unlock/disarm share the same button. Press once to lock once to unlock and the panic button is the second button. The rear hatch main release lock is included as part of the all doors lock or unlock from the remote but just the rear glass can only be unlocked with the key or the remote glass release on the dash. www.dhardison.com/alarm.pdf