dhardison

Yes it's the auto amp box It's on the right side of the drivers footwell. Mine was obscured by aftermarket stereo wiring and it is closer to 4x4 like you said. I'm not looking forward to replacing this part. Thanks for your help

Can somebody help me with the location of the automatic fan control relay. This is the black box approx 3x3 inches that is used only on WD21 pathfinders that have auto fan speed and temperature control settings. As detailed as my PDF version service manual is about most heat ac service procedures it's just sketchy about the actual location of this part. There's no info about what needs to be removed to replace it. Any help would be appreciated.

Mine did this two times because the fluid was low but I couldn't see any leaks from the calipers or brake lines. About 5,000 miles after the second time I had to add fluid the master cylinder went out completely and I knew where the leak was for sure.

That's the problem with keeping old cars and trucks running. Every major thing that goes wrong is going to cost what the truck is worth to fix. You either love your old Path and pay to fix it, or get something newer. I spent almost $1500 to put new tires on my year and a half old Z 2 months ago at 18,000 miles. $1500 every 18,000 miles for a normal wear out item ouch! A $1500 clutch looks cheap. I guess my point is newer is not always better just more expensive to maintain. As a Pathfinder fan I hope you take a leap of faith and fix your truck.

Valvoline full synthetic 5w-30w year round. Change every 5000 miles and my truck leaks and or burns about 1/2 a quart in the 5000 miles. Never thought filter brands made a lot of difference as long as it wasn't a real cheapo but I should find one good type and stick with it.

It hasn't really gotten cold enough in my area yet but I remember hearing this on some cold morning starts last winter after my truck sit all night. Not constantly but just 2 or 3 pop pops right as the engine cranks to life on a cold morning. I've just chalked it up to a 206k engine but I think I'll change this sensor out before cold weather sets in. Thanks for the advice.

I want to service my auto locking hubs before the cold weather and snow gets here. The instructions below are from the FSM. It looks pretty easy but any tips or tricks would be appreciated. Also any recommendations on the best grease to use.

I'd start there with a rotate. I was following a 95 I owned for a while back from the shop one day with a friend driving and noticed the right rear wheel was wobbling at low speeds, but the wobble seemed to disappear when you got over 25 mph. Bought a steelie from the junkyard and it seemed to run straight spinning on the balance machine off the truck when they mounted the same tire that was on the old wheel. Few weeks later I had a chance to follow my truck down the road again and the new wheel was wobbling just like the wheel I took off. At that point I got an offer on the truck from a friend of a friend sold it, never looked into the problem any further. If the guy came back and said anything about it I was going to give him a $100 of his money back and tell him that I think the junkyard wheel was bent too just get another one. What I really think was that the axle flange was bent and the axle would have to come out fix it. If I'd have lucky, and I never have this kind of good luck, some of the belts might be busted in the tire. That could explain the wobble under load mounted on the truck, but running true on the spin balancer. I see my old truck and it's new owner every now and then and he's put 60k on it in about 18 months and never said anything to me about it. Just brags about how good it's turned out to be. He did have to pay $400 to get an exhaust leak fixed that turned out to be a broken stud. He said he thought he hit a speed bump too fast, I acted surprised. So I'm really curious to see what you find out and what it takes to fix it since I was dealing with the same issue.

It should be a lot easier now with the newest generation of add on power roofs that open up and slide out and back over the exterior top of the roof vs. the old school style that required you to cut out and modify the headliner, install the sliding tracks on the inside part of the roof, etc. You lose at least 2 inches of headroom with those old power sliders plus they were a royal pita to install.

Most of my 2 cents on this have been covered but I've got a few points that nobody mentioned. Yes packaging space and weight plus transverse or longitudinal placement in the chassis is what started the big switch especially for front wheel drive. Balance shaft technology is what gave manufacturers the ability to make a v6 almost as smooth as an inline 6, 5cyl and big over-square 4 bangers too. For manufacturers that sell v-8 and v-6 engines it's easier to convert a v-8 engine line to produce v-6s or vice versa depending on market demand than to switch an inline engine plant over to make v-8s.

No I didn't mine, was in the hole on the top of the box and covered by the sticker that you say your box doesn't have. The fob I got included this replacement sticker to cover the hole when I was finished programming. I've posted a link to the instruction sheet in pdf format that was included with my fob. And these instructions link Fob Instructions PDF I thought based on what you posted you had completely removed the top and bottom covers off the box because neither one had the access hole.

Maybe that's all it is, a factory alarm. Not an alarm and keyless entry. The Nissan instructions that came with my fob said the reset button that's under the sticker in the 7/8" hole is yellow if you see any buttons that color attached to the circuit board.

This may sound dumb but when I first started trying to program a new nissan fob i bought on ebay based on the info from this forum i kept trying to find my box under the drivers seat. I was thinking it would be out in the open and mounted the same way the ecu box was mounted under the passenger seat. You know just stick your hand under the seat and you can see and feel the box and wires. Turns out my alarm box was completely covered by the front and rear carpets and i had to take the front seat out and pull the carpet back at the point were the front and rear carpets overlap to get to it. Not sure if my alarm control box was mounted like that from the factory or if a carpet kit was installed in my truck by the previous owner at some point and they just took the lazy way out and covered up the box with the new carpet. The passenger side probably was pre-cut out for the ecu but since the alarm was optional maybe the carpet installer was supposed to cut out a square for the alarm control box and didn't. In all the stuff I've seen about reprogramming the box in this forum nobody's ever mentioned the fact that the seat had to come out to get to the box so I never understood why mine was buried under the carpet like that but it was.

I had a 92 300ZX back in the day that acted like that and it turned out to be a bad temp sensor but I can't remember which one. Basically it was incorrectly reading the engine temp and outdoor temp as colder than it really was and it would full rich the injectors and flood out the plugs on a cold start, but only after it sat all night. After it sat about an hour and the plugs dried out it would start fine. I guess because the evaporation emission system is so tight you couldn't really smell any raw gas when this happened. And it wouldn't throw any codes because I guess to the computer the sensor was working. It drove the dealership crazy trying to fix it.

My first Japanese talking dash sounded like a See-and-Say but I digress. I knew where this topic was headed when it pulled out on to the freeway in front of that semi and got knocked across the median into an oncoming dump truck.

I've been following this thread thinking about a BMW that was stolen from me in the 80's. Got a call from the KY state police informing me they found my car in BFE Kentucky. I'm excited, relieved, doing the happy dance, asking when and where I can pick it up. Then reality kicks in because they say "not so fast they found your car totaled at the bottom of a ravine in 6ft of water. You need to send a rollback"

In 1987 the government thought we still needed an 85 mph speedo to keep us safe!

Here is the page everybody refers to from the warranty supplement to my 93 owners manual Here is a link to the file in pdf format seatbelt.pdf

I have a key to a '95 I once owned that starts and unlocks the column on my '93. It won't unlock the doors though.

Are you going to leave off the converter(s) since you live in an emissions test exempt county? If it was me I'd be very tempted.

What's the old saying "Happy Wife Happy Life" or something like that.

While you're at it pick me up a Fairlady emblem. See non USA market names aren't always better - but TERRANO is good.

I had a dent in my hood that I wanted out and my body guy said I can replace the hood cheaper than I can fix the dent. I said WHAT, that little dent. Turns out a Keystone hood was $60 and either way my hood had to be painted.

Like precise says just take your time and walk away from the bad ones. There are still good ones out there if you keep looking. Don't make my mistake. I looked at 6 that turned out to be junk so when I ran across number 7 I bought it even though it wasn't the best, it was way better than the other ones I had looked at. Then I saw the one I own now on craigslist and it was exactly the condition and options I wanted all along. I bought it too and had to sell the first one I bought at a loss because I had already started fixing things that I couldn't get my money back on.

UGH the Leaf, well whatever it takes to keep my fellow Tennesseans in Smyrna-saki working but I'm not feeling it. I could try bio-diesel and creep down the road in a clapped out rabbit on free used french fry oil.