dhardison

Here goes, like I said strange the head/parking lights have to be on for them to work but I guess in those early days there wasn't a "typical" way to do things.

I'm glad you're back. Now use your dealership resources and your excellent rust free geographical location to find a great replacement Pathfinder. You know you can't live without one. I know I couldn't.

There was a change in Homelink around 1999 or 2000 to better talk to "rolling code" garage doors. Basically any Homelink prior to 97 or 98 is useless with a "rolling code" door or gate. I've lived in a gated apartment with a garage for many years and programmed many Homelink systems to work the gate and garage door for myself and my neighbors on lots of different makes of vehicles. The system is the same, Homelink is licensed technology, no mater what make or model of car or were it's located, in the visor, or built in to the rear view mirror. The visor models use the same power supply as the visor vanity light. And that is why I haven't swapped out the visors in my old 93 Pathfinder with some Homelinks from a later model. WD21 Paths have the visor vanity light wired so they only come on when the parking or headlights are on. I guess I can see some reasoning behind this, why would you need the light during the day, but on every other car or truck I've ever seen the vanity lights come on whenever the visor switch is activated. This happens regardless of the vehicle light switch or ignition key position, even off. The homelink has a small internal backup battery so it won't lose your programming if the car loses power for a short time due to a dead battery or disconnected cables but it's pretty much got to have power 24/7 to remember the code you program in. I would have to change the visor wiring in my truck to a hot all the time connection and for me that's were it starts to turn into real work.

And I read somewhere that our latch assembly has the same part number as some models of a 240SX but I don't remember the years. Not the glass just the latch.

Yep that's it I remember the back-lit gauges and the kick plates. I like to think I'm responsible for him choosing a Nissan. All those Christmases and Thanksgivings I showed up at grandma's driving a shiny new Max or Z-ZX while he was growing up.

Two years ago when my nephew turned 16 his grandmother, not my mother, bought him a vehicle for his birthday. He picked out what I guess was about a three year old Pathfinder that was black with black leather. The only time I sit in it back then it looked like it had every option you could get. We don't live in the same state and I see him even less now because he's a freshman at Ole Miss and away at school. I did make a mental note the only time I saw it that it had a VQ and I thought that was probably a good thing. The thing that has always puzzled me was it had a platinum edition badge on the fender or drivers door but only on the drivers side. So I have a few questions for the R50 people. 1. Was there an really a platinum edition? 2. Is it supposed to have a badge on each side and the passenger side is missing? 3. Was this just a marketing ploy to load up a Pathfinder with options and sell off the last of the R50s before the model change? I would ask him but he's car clueless and if it's just some dealer add on fake thing I don't want to embarrass him. I've seen some red 99 Maximas with a platinum badge but never another Pathfinder platinum except his.

That was my problem, fixed with a 3 dollar used one from pull-a-part.

The Nissan OEM replacement shocks are about $160 each net and probably listed for close to $300 each. Most people couldn't really justify spending that much on replacement shocks when there were better alternatives for less money. About the only thing I use my Sport setting for is really gusty windy days on the interstate. You know those days when it feels like you are driving a D21 pickup with a garden shed strapped on the back. It seems to offer a little more stability. The rest of the time sport just makes it ride rougher with no upside.

Check your shocks and if they don't have electrical connections and wires connected them you're just wasting your time because someone already changed the shocks out to standard shocks.

Right what silverton says, mine runs to that vacuum / solenoid valve, I think it's called the EGRC solenoid valve. Mine has three vacuum inputs the one by itself goes to the bottom of the throttle body. on the other side I have two, the bottom one goes to the intake duct that I think you are talking about and the top one goes to the EGR valve. It's got an electrical connector too. I'm not sure but I think the other big hose that disappears under the plenum is more valve cover blow-by piping that connects both valve covers and makes its way to the blow-by control valve that's screwed into the side of the plenum.

I think GM shipped new Chevy-GMC Tahoes, Yukons, Suburbans and trucks with a daytime running lamp pre burned out.

Maybe start by extinguishing sparklers burning in the factory toolkit combination #6 plug tool - sparkler holder

Make sure you get and install the brace that is on the inside of the quarter panel. Saw a Pathfinder at pull-a-part once that had the tire carrier installed later. You could tell by the bolts they used it wasn't factory installed . Anyway without that support brace on the inside the weight of the tire and rack opening and closing had bent and kinked the quarter panel and it looked bad. I noticed it because I owned a 95 at the time that didn't have the rack and was thinking about installing one too.

I'd never buy something like a trans on CL unless it was in a truck I could drive to test it. If you buy it online make sure you pay for it with a credit card not a debit card. That way if it turns out to be bad you've got a chance at disputing the charge. Just my 2

It looks great and since I'm always about the details, run a band of masking tape about a half an inch up from where the tip increases diameter and shoot from there back. Paint the slim part of the tip, the clamp and as much of the exhaust pipe as you can see in the picture with high temp flat black paint.

Be sure the motor is getting power. If it is and it still won't come out then the nylon rope is probably broken and pieces have gotten jammed around the gear. You don't have to take it out to fix it but you will have to remove the inner fender to gain access to a side cover on the antennae gear assembly to remove the broken pieces. After you have the gear free just turn on the radio, thread the new antennae nylon into the hole while another person turns off the radio. As the gear turns to retract it will pull the new antennae down into the hole and you can reinstall the retaining washer and nut.

Here's a shot that shows my factory tailpipe. My truck still has the original factory exhaust except for the catalytic converter. It does stick out some but I've seen a lot worse.

Me too because this is kind of thing I've been a little confused about with our rare Tennessee snow days. The main highways will be clear and the back roads snowed in. Not always convenient to stop and back up when switching back and forth.

The factory fob, at least for 93's, only has two buttons. The lock/arm - unlock/disarm share the same button. Press once to lock once to unlock and the panic button is the second button. The rear hatch main release lock is included as part of the all doors lock or unlock from the remote but just the rear glass can only be unlocked with the key or the remote glass release on the dash. www.dhardison.com/alarm.pdf

It's a keyless entry too. There are people in the forum who have bought the generic keyless module off ebay and programed them to work. I bought a new old stock factory Nissan fob off ebay and programed it to work. I had my original fob but the plastic was cracked and it wouldn't stay attached to my key chain. The programing instructions are posted in the forum garage section I think. You program your receiver box under the drivers seat to accept the code from the fob. The fob code is fixed. Not the other way around like you might think.

I've always had good luck with mine since I switched to 5w-30w synthetic oil. It was a trick I learned from the Miata forums a few years ago, the girlfriend and I used to keep a Miata around for summer night cruising, sorta like an MG that won't leave you stranded. Older Miatas have notoriously noisy lifters on a cold start. Synthetic oil holds it viscosity better than dinosaur oil so it really is thin 5w on a cold start and can flow through the sludge. The downside, as has been mentioned in these forums, it can cause leaks and higher oil consumption in high mileage engines. If you notice either of these symptoms change back. I'm just glad my Pathfinder VG's still kickin so strong at 200k to have this problem. I expect nothing less from Nissan.

That would get my vote.

Sorry I can't tell without taking it out and like a lot of other electrical related stuff on this truck it looks like a royal pain to get it out. At least to my mechanical challenged butt anyway.

It looks like a factory switch in person and you can see from these photos all my rocker positions are filled by other options. Photo 1 left side: Rear Defrost, Cruise Control Master Switch, Power Hatch Release Photo 2 right side: Hazard Flasher, Rear Wiper, Tranny Control Photo 3 console: Shock Setting Selector, Alarm Switch, Left and Right Seat Heaters An interesting note is if the rocker was mounted on the console and the seat heater switches forced mine to use the dash mounted switch then it seems they had to use a different wiring harness with the foglight connector in a different place just for pathfinders optioned like this.

My 93 has the round switch mounted under the steering column but I've seen other 93's with the rocker switch. I don't think there is a wrong answer. The rocker switch was the first choice but if the knock-out plugs in the dash or console were taken up by other option switches the round switch was used.