01silvapathy

Sweet man, ill update the list. Be sure to post of pics of your truck when you do that lift!! I love to see other rigs with the same kinda setup. And if you ever need any help with your install just PM me and ill send you my cell number that you can call me at if you have questions...same goes for everyone who is installing this lift. I know it can seem overwhelming but its not all that difficult

Tell me about it brah. But thats more money and as things stand now I have better things to spend money on. First thing I need to replace is my strut mount that has a squeaky bearing that is driving me crazy....everytime I stop it squeaks. Ontop of that I need new ball joints soon, as well as extended rear links to help re center the axle. I am really hoping to get a job so I can start making money. Being a broke college kid really sucks.

The specs should all be the same.

I made the mistake of paying someone I barely knew 800 dollars pretty much 3 years ago. I didnt at the time know how easy it was to make one or that it would take 2 and a half years to get my kit.

Yeah man, that would be sick! I have always wanted to wheel Colorado and seeing how you and thunderbolt are both there it would make the most sense to meet up there. For me its almost always a matter of money to travel as well as finding time off school. Probably during the summer months or a break of some sort would be the best. We need to make a list of who all has a SFD in the US. -Me (Andrew) -You (Rick im assuming?) -Muddfilldvaynes -MichiganAve -Thunderbolt (David) -qx4palo -Adventure51 (soon to install) -There is another guy on NTR in Texas that has a SFD -As well as numerous others that have been asking about the kit and will most likely get one soon. Canada -Shift220 (Andrew) -New4x4er (Rod) -Tekazgtr (Ty....he has his lift, but I dont know when he is going to install)

Awesome Man! Looks killer, what kinda tires do you have waiting to go on? Its about time the invasion of the monster r50's happened

Done! You better vote for me

I think it may just be the angle of the pic, but I will go have a looksee later on once I save up the energy to move out of bed and go to walmart In terms of an sas good luck, and keep the forum updated with what you do.

Nope, its still in its stock mounts, I dont really know if its necessary seeing how I only have 5in of lift in the rear. It might be a project ill do when I have a boring weekend up at the shop

Swapping bushings is a pain to do, and you also have a very different setup than I do...I have lift coils with a spacer not custom coils.

I will try and go out and flex to the max if I can on something and see how the shocks work and if they top out at all. I have a feeling the limiting factor on the rear flex now is going to be the links because they can only travel so far....but we will see soon enough.

Thanks for the comps guys. I will get on those measurements asap. At the moment im still bed ridden with the stomach flu so it might not be til late this weekend.

Pics are up now, in terms of clearances I dont have a tape in the truck so I will have to wait til I am feeling better to go up to the shop and measure both front gc, rear gc, Fender Measurements as well as ground to bottom of body measurements. In terms of tires, im leaning away from 35's now for a few reasons. First off they can fit yes, but trimming would have to be done, as well as a need for aftermarket wheels with bigger backspacing or moving up to a 2in wheel spacer in the front. Even then fitting a 12.5 wide tire on the truck is challenging. Secondly the flares would most likely have to come off if I went to 35's and that imo would look like ass. Also if I moved to a 35x12.5 I would most likely have to regear....which is more money again. The plan at the moment is this. Find two replacement 285 75 16 BFG At's to replace the very worn front tires. Save up some money and either move to a true 33x10.5 wide tire or get a metric sized tire in a 34x10.5. The main reason why im wanting 10.5 is because they will fit on my stock wheels without much of an issue, the tires I have on now are 11.5 wide and they barely clear the strut. If anyone else has questions just ask, as long as they are not stupid questions I wont bite

Okay so this is the last post in terms of a review and finished pics. As far as ride goes, its improved ten fold! The suspension seems like it should have been setup this way from the factory. Ever since the lift has gone on both front and rear the struts have only topped out once, and that was while trying to baja a steep speedbump...so it was expected. But driving the same roads as I did before the suspension does not top out as it used to in the same spots. The rear is noticeably softer and body roll is a bit more exaggerated, but thats to be expected. I still need to reset my lsv sensor and I think that will help with the stopping. Front end dive is greater under heavy braking, and the rear likes to get up as well. This again is to be expected with a bigger lift. Overall though I really do LOVE the ride now its awesome Onto the pics, I took a few flex shots and such but not many cause I have been sick the past day or so and had classes the rest of the week. Anyways here are the pics I have and also a youtube video of the finished lift showing into more detail the rear blocks where they are welded and the brake line ect. Please note that the rear lift is at 5in (3in spacer, 2in coils) and the front is at 6.5(4in blocks, 4.5in strut spacers) Also the rear has about 200lbs of stuff back there so its a tad bit sagged...but id personally rather have some cali lean than texas rake..since I never tow anything. Youtube Video

Okay yall, figured id go ahead and post up the rest of the pics from when I finished up the rest of the lift this past weekend. It was a relatively straight forward process that only took us about 2 hours to complete. We did not make a panhard rod drop bracket cause we measured and did not notice any shift in the axle. But its on the list of things to get done. Also need to get some extended rear links or build them to help recenter the axle cause its obvious that it got pulled forward quite a bit. First off jack the ass end wayyyy up in the air and place jack stands right in front of where the lower links mount and take off the tires. Then take off the shocks and rear brake line....you absolutely have to get a new one for this there is no getting around it In order to get the axle to drop enough we detached the upper links from the axle and that gave us just enough room to fit the coils on with the spacers. We also detached the panhard rod from the axle to keep it from binding I know we forgot to detach the lsv spring but oh well, it didnt break lol Next install the new brake line being careful not to strip out the lines....no pics of that Next was to weld on the spacers 3 small beads did the trick After that just re install the shocks and put the wheels and tires back on and bleed the brakes...it was about 1000 times more easy to do than the front was lol. I will make a seperate post with pics and such of the completed project. Tools you will need to complete the sfd lift -Big Set of Jackstands...atleast 3ton -Big Jack that can raise the rear of the truck high up in the air -Assorted tools and wrenches -Air tools made some things easier but are not required -Breakerbar -Lots of PB Blaster -Torch comes in handy to help loosen stubborn bolts -Torque Wrench -Brake Fluid -Friends help alot

Oh yeah Max did indeed run 38x13.5 I believe? Obviously there was some trimming involved and shock relocation....he also had like big xj lift coils as well as a 5in sfd BE A MAN AND GO WITH 38's

Oh wow man! So did you take the struts off the truck to loosen and then re tighten them down? We have pulled and installed my struts 6 times in this lift process and its a PITA May just deal with it, once I get new strut bearings I will try to work on lookin at those struts.

Too late installed them today Teaser....more pics in the light tomorrow when I get time...its time to go

RockAuto maybe?

Im going to have to agree here, I got a JWT pop charger for my VQ and I love it! It was 130 bucks shipped to me and took all of 15 minutes to install. I made a review thread over in the product review section if you want to check it out. And yes, the venturi is pretty much a solid piece of machined aluminum that fits under the filter and helps make its distinctive sound.

Dude! I get the same pop from time to time, like when im stopped crank the wheel to turn and then gas it like turning from a center lane into a parking lot. I am doing my rear lift this weekend hopefully and hope to get the front alignment dialed in as well as take a gander at the ball joints. Adam, I will attempt to take a video of driving and see if the noise shows up, but I doubt it will. It also seems as if the sound is alot worse when only I am in the truck. I was driving around with 3 buddies today and the noise was almost non existant for some odd reason? Little things like this really bug and get to me.

Hmm, I guess I will just have to do a bit more investigation with a jack to see if there is wheel movement and such. I will also look into strut bearings. Is there any easy way to test and see if thats the problem?

Okay so ever since I did my sfd and this cold wet weather has set in I have started to notice a VERY annoying squeak coming from both front wheels. On the passenger side its only when a tire goes over a bump that it squeaks, but the drivers side is terrible and squeaks with pretty much any little bump or anything in the road. I was driving this morning and noticed it probably cause I didnt have any music playing for the first time in awhile. I got out and shook the truck back and forth and side to side and could not replicate the sound, so I dont really think its the coils making the noise. I have read up online about how ball joints can become bad quickly and start to squeak, esp after a suspension change like a lift kit... To be honest I do not really know when the last time they were changed was. If it was on the reccommended service plan from Nissan then it was done, but if not chance are they are original with 101k on them Should I just bite the bullet here and replace them, how often should they have even been changed? Could the squeak be coming from somewhere else? Thanks all for the help!

I have spring spacers to put in for my rear lift. They just go over the stock spring perch and get a few very small beads that can be ground off when I get the cash for new springs.

You could always tint the reflectors, or rather smoke them like I did to both the reflectors and tails. Its dark enough to where a trained eye can see they are tinted, but not enough to warrant being pulled over for. I like it this light cause the reverse lights still work, there is still some reflection in the tails and the signal light is still orange as opposed to the kinda weird color a really dark tinted tail gives off.