Diesel Boy

You can also spray your belts with CRC or what ever you guys get over there and it should shut them up temporarily if thats the cause. Worn, or slightly loose belts can make that sort of sound

Or sucked some crap up from the bottom of the tank and blocked the filter..............

Well does it look like the seal you pulled out?? Do the numbers match?? Does it measure up to be the same??

How did you get on with this in the end?? Just to clear up the glow plug thing: On a TD27, the Glow plugs turn off soon after light goes out. Pre-Combustion chambers have been heated to a temperature suitable to allow engine to run. The intake manifold heater then kicks in and heats the intake manifold and the air passing through it to enable the engine to warm up quickly. You can double glow the engine if its very cold outside, glo, turn key off then back on again and wait for the light to go out the second time. Sounds to me like their is something funny with the pic up in the fuel tank, or a small sealing problem in one of the fuel lines. Easiesy way to check is to remoce the tank inpection cover from under the carpet in the rear of the vehicle, remove the intake fuel like and pressurise with compressed air (carefully) look for a gradual decrease in pressure in the fuel line (may need to rig up a pressure gauge too). Either that or get some one to folow the fuels lines looking for fuel spraying out. Could be something as simple as a loose hose clamp..........ya never know. Cheers, Pete.

It could be the coil. Coils can start to break down when hot. Could also be the cold start circut on the engine not switching off when up to opperating temp, and the engine is actually overfueling causing it to run rough. There will be a vacum hose that can be dissconnected and blocked off to make a simple test to rule out the cold start circut out. Someone with the v6 will point out were to look for the hose!!

Sorry!! Sorry!! But if it gives someone inspriation to do the same to a PF that has longer travel IFS to start with than a Toymotor, than am i excused??

Warning The poster absolves him self from all repair bills relating to spilt coffee on key boards, expenses incurred in cleaning computer screens, and any treatment relating to emotional or physical trauma and/or mental health counciling. IFS can be improved significantly:

Hmm. But if a power steering hose burst or an oil feed to a turbo........ But the chances of that happening???

Tell her to call an autosparky (automotive electrician) out to have look. Also check the linkage onto the side of the gearbox from the shift lever. Best start looking for a second hand trans if those two things check out to be all right.

The best tool for the ol filter is a special filter wrench that is a circular band or steel that slips over the filter and as you lever on the handle it tightens the band of steel onto the filter and locks so you can undo it. Then there's the part of actually getting the filter out of the engine bay after you've taken it off....... Make sure you do it some where you don't mind spilling oil on. You will get it everywhere!!!!!! If ya want a pic of the filter wrench so you can track one down i'l get one for ya. There really cheap and make the job so much easier!!!! Pete. PS,You have proper diesel engine oil for it don't you?? Not just ordinary motor oil!!!!

Right on the money with that one!!!!! If you don't have an inter cooler, which i know you don't, spin it round the other way so it draws hot air out of the engine bay. Just don't do anything stupid like this: YUK!!!!

Pull an insurence scam. Ring up, get the cover changed to full with windscreen cover, they will send ya the bill with the date when you need to pay by and when cover expires if you haven't payed, then wait a week, ring them up and claim, and then cancel the full back to third party cover when ya have your new screen. Getting the old windscreen is tha biggest mission. Glass every where etc etc. Best way to do it is with a piece of wire or a guitar string, get it through behind the windscreen and work it back and forth so it cuts the glue the whole way round screen. Its a mission. Then ya gotta try and get the remains of the old glue off, and glue the new one in. Not at all easy!!!!

You often need to take a step back and have another look at it. I usualy go have a beer, then come back to it.

Step up?? Set side ways possibly. It produces less power than the VG30, but you know that, as its a diesel right?? 650 K's on a long trip to a tank thats the same size as your pathfinders 450 easily round town. Biggest bonus is the relativly trouble free nature of a diesel if oil and coolent kept up to scratch. I imagine first impressions would be a slow sluggish engine with no accelleration. But Nissan diesels are designed like that, they go the distance. If ya want performance, stick with the VG30!! For antything else, go with the TD27

Hey, just try me, i will dissagree with anything and everything you want

That would be my bet. The pressure plate, clutch and thrust bearing should technically have no bearing on what is going on inside the box. If you have a squeeling sound coming from the box, the yes, you have somebearings in there that are ready to self destruct and pop out the side of the case. Seen it happen to my mates one about 2mths ago. You may want to listen carefully to the box, it will be noisey in all gears except 4th, and possibly 5th. If you have been driving it like this for a while, then you more than lickly have got used to the noise Either way, what evers wrong, the trannys got to come out for a rebuild or swap, and while its out it would be false economy not to do the clutch and pressure plate. It ain't going to fix its self, and you can't fix it in the vehicle!!! Cheers, Pete.

This could be usefull to: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5734

With the obviouse steering box problem aside, are you sure your front wheels are balenced correctly?? I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but you may have already?? Its usualy a sign that they aren't when every time you hit a certain speed you get a wobble through the steering. Wheel shimmy often only occurs during breaking, of when you have hit a bump and you can then accelerate out of it. Consistent wobble at a certain speed is usually wheel balence, check for bulges in your tyres, mud on the back of the rims and if thats all good, get a balence done, its cheap and atleast you can rule out that from the list of possible causes!!

Diesel is 91 cents a litre over here!!!! Used to be 69cents a year ago. So i bought a little 125cc motorbike to ride to work and the Safari stays tucked up in the garage untill the weekends!!! For my individual vehicle, if you include the tax you pay serperatly over here, its $1:67 a litre to run it!!!!! That costs depends on how you drive and how efficient the vehicle is. Stupid idea really!!!

Cheers guys!! Yeah 25's a good age over here, all your insurence premiums and excesses drop to about half of what they were!!! Its great!!! The new face lift for the site looks really good to!!!

Yeah i've been around, i have moved house, swapped islands and changed jobs in the last few months. Keeps life interesting!!! I now have 33X12.5R15 Yokohama Geolander G001 under the Safari, which are awsome for a cheap tyre,!!! Don't have them on in those pics.. I recommend them at this stage!!!

Hi all, havn't been on here for a while, good to see it all still happening for ya and ya pathfinders are getting better and more built all the time!!! If ya wanna see what i've been up to here's a couple of pics, and below is a link to a trip report i ran on the 6th of August: Offroad-Express.co.nz Bay Of Plenty (NZ) Trip Report August 2005 Enjoy, will visit a bit more often, i promise!!!!

Yup, every site has its Guru!!! Thanks. The diff head i found must have been from quite a late modle. Sorry about the Crown wheel thing, we are very british with our terminology at times over here!!!! Ya, know, bonnet, hood, bumpers, fenders, that kinda thing So D21, D22, and some of the early R50's had the H233b in the rear, with the 31 spline axels. Sweet, that widens the search out alot. My front diff has the high pinion shaft, so i will have to swap ring gears over, as mine will be reversed i suspect. Getting interesting!!!!

If all else fails, keep me in mind and post back what ya find!!!!

Just noticed you have added to this!!!! Hmm, well: First of all, the torque converter can be looked at as being two seperate halves, one coupled to the engine and the other to the gear box. The two halves are connect by the transmission fluid, which transfers the spinning motion generated by the rotation of the crank shaft in the engine through to the half connected to the gear box. When lock up occures, a clutch locks the two halves of the torque convertor together, making a direct mechanical link from the engine to the gear box. By doing this, the loss of power created by the fluid coupling is eliminated. This opperation is all that the switch controls. When the lock up clutch engages, and when it switches off. Lock up only occured on mine when in over drive. The switch im refering to, on mine, had three positions, Hold, A/T and Power. Hold prevented the Kick down of gears, when you put your foot to the floor, a switch on the accelerator pedal tells the trans comp to drop a gear. The Hold switch prevents this from occuring, so that the only time the box will change gear wil be in relation to speed and engine rev's, and you moving the stick. Hope that helps, feel free to ask more, i will keep my eye on this thread a bit harder