madhatter_xe

Well, since they use a Frontier as an example for the kit you can't base much on the pictures. Those pictures are generic examples of what the bodylift parts look like. The kit is made by Performance Accessories, someone that used that kit will probably comment on how complete they are. If you want to know how many blocks come in the kit, email the seller and ask him. I try to avoid buying stuff online from people with crappy communication and an even worse warranty. :contract: Edit: here is the company site Performance Accessories

If you're set on getting rid of the rust and painting it, changing the color jacks the costs up huge. The painter will have to do inside the door jams and a whack load of other areas that wouldn't require paint if you stuck with the same color. On top of all the areas that don't normally need paint, the shop has to prime the entire truck and apply a few coats of paint to the entire truck. This adds costs. The roof for instance, thats a lot of paint and effort for an area that probably doesn't even need to be repainted. A good shop can easily tape off the roof and no one would ever know it wasn't painted. If you stick with the same color you'll save a ton of cash and the interior will still match. But if money is no object, I like the blue used on the '06 Tacoma's.

Ya, mine has always done that too, I just figured it was some kind of pressure release valve on the tank or something. Post 400!!! woohooo

I hope the torque specifications aren't a big deal. I just hit it with the impact to tighten it up. Its been fine since so I think you'd be safe using GG's method.

yeah for that price ABS is the way to go. Looking forward to some pics.

makes sense. I bought it to prevent another bent CL, but sounds like it'll prevent more than that....good stuff.

bump

Isn't there a "How-To relocate your alternator" thread kickin around? Will the alt. line up with the AC compressor mount?

How does the L&P Steering Upgrade prevent bending TRE's? I have an L&P idler arm brace and a L&P Center Link coming in the mail. But I don't understand how an Idler Arm Brace, Center Link or double-sheer pitman or idler arm could prevent bent TRE's? 88, have you bent any since you installed the L&P kit?

schweeet! *checks price of snorkel*... ...not so schweet.

IMHO, if its sitting on the bump stops its cranked too far. Mine were cranked up sitting on the low-profile bump stops and my buddy that was doing the alignment had to drop it down to about a 1" gap over the bump stops so it could be aligned. Edit: I have the AC 3" UCA's. Worn BJ's and tie-rods will make an alignment impossible too.

I put mine between the AC condenser and the rad, only b/c it wouldn't fit anywhere else. In front of the rad would be better. But like MZ said, search around. theres a thread all about tranny coolers in the forum somewhere.

While you're waiting, you should consider getting stronger bolts for the Warn hubs, they are notorious for snapping off.

That is friggin sweet dude. Hopefully the bigger box solves the problem. Nice work!

That sums mine up...

Yes, those are upper and lower BJ's. The last pic is your cv axle boot. The ball joints look like they're pretty bagged. To test them jack the vehicle up on jack stands and try wobbling the tire from top to bottom and side to side. If there is play in the tire, then you need new BJ's. As mentioned earlier, its a pretty easy DIY job. There is a thread in the "How-To" section on changing cv's.

whoa, forgot what section I was posting in. Thanks for the info.

Isn't the catalytic converter set in-line further down the exhaust? after the Y pipe. I don't think you can see the cat from that view.

Sweet deal man. Those look solid. How much did they cost you?

You could get them to change the cam seals, the crank seal and the thermostat while they're in there. I'm not sure what the going rate is, but thats a whack load of cash for a job that isn't too difficult if you have the tools, and an afternoon to kill.

i think that is what he wants to prevent.

yeah, some guy with an 88...apparently.

You should spray the hell out of everything with a pressure washer from underneath and clean the areas surrounding the valve covers. That'll help determine where its coming from.

Based on what I've heard, don't hold your breath.