madhatter_xe

Areas that have rust will need to be cut out, patched, grinded, sanded and then primed for paint. Areas that aren't rusty can be sanded/scuffed enough to remove the clearcoat so paint will adhere to it when repainted and clear coated. So on top of not needing primer, those panels won't need as many coats of paint b/c its the same color as it was. This will save you labour and paint costs. Also save by not messing around painting in the door-jams. Unless the roof has dents that are rusting or the clearcoat is badly faded, I wouldn't touch it. You could use the $$ you save to lift it so nobody can see the roof anyways.

Well, since they use a Frontier as an example for the kit you can't base much on the pictures. Those pictures are generic examples of what the bodylift parts look like. The kit is made by Performance Accessories, someone that used that kit will probably comment on how complete they are. If you want to know how many blocks come in the kit, email the seller and ask him. I try to avoid buying stuff online from people with crappy communication and an even worse warranty. :contract: Edit: here is the company site Performance Accessories

If you're set on getting rid of the rust and painting it, changing the color jacks the costs up huge. The painter will have to do inside the door jams and a whack load of other areas that wouldn't require paint if you stuck with the same color. On top of all the areas that don't normally need paint, the shop has to prime the entire truck and apply a few coats of paint to the entire truck. This adds costs. The roof for instance, thats a lot of paint and effort for an area that probably doesn't even need to be repainted. A good shop can easily tape off the roof and no one would ever know it wasn't painted. If you stick with the same color you'll save a ton of cash and the interior will still match. But if money is no object, I like the blue used on the '06 Tacoma's.

Ya, mine has always done that too, I just figured it was some kind of pressure release valve on the tank or something. Post 400!!! woohooo

Welcome to the forum! Instead of carpet or vinyl, you could always run some rhino liner or something like that. K&N filter is all thats available for the 87-89 Pathfinders, but anythings possible with a little PVC and duct tape.

I hope the torque specifications aren't a big deal. I just hit it with the impact to tighten it up. Its been fine since so I think you'd be safe using GG's method.

yeah for that price ABS is the way to go. Looking forward to some pics.

makes sense. I bought it to prevent another bent CL, but sounds like it'll prevent more than that....good stuff.

bump

Isn't there a "How-To relocate your alternator" thread kickin around? Will the alt. line up with the AC compressor mount?

How does the L&P Steering Upgrade prevent bending TRE's? I have an L&P idler arm brace and a L&P Center Link coming in the mail. But I don't understand how an Idler Arm Brace, Center Link or double-sheer pitman or idler arm could prevent bent TRE's? 88, have you bent any since you installed the L&P kit?

schweeet! *checks price of snorkel*... ...not so schweet.

IMHO, if its sitting on the bump stops its cranked too far. Mine were cranked up sitting on the low-profile bump stops and my buddy that was doing the alignment had to drop it down to about a 1" gap over the bump stops so it could be aligned. Edit: I have the AC 3" UCA's. Worn BJ's and tie-rods will make an alignment impossible too.

I put mine between the AC condenser and the rad, only b/c it wouldn't fit anywhere else. In front of the rad would be better. But like MZ said, search around. theres a thread all about tranny coolers in the forum somewhere.

While you're waiting, you should consider getting stronger bolts for the Warn hubs, they are notorious for snapping off.

That is friggin sweet dude. Hopefully the bigger box solves the problem. Nice work!

That sums mine up...

Yes, those are upper and lower BJ's. The last pic is your cv axle boot. The ball joints look like they're pretty bagged. To test them jack the vehicle up on jack stands and try wobbling the tire from top to bottom and side to side. If there is play in the tire, then you need new BJ's. As mentioned earlier, its a pretty easy DIY job. There is a thread in the "How-To" section on changing cv's.

Go OIL!

Welcome to the Forum! Looks like us Canucks are taking over this site Thats a sweet rig man, i'm positive i've seen wheeling pics of that thing on the web. Looks like the PO took great care of it. EDIT:Yeah, it was on here, these are the pics. Member's Rig

whoa, forgot what section I was posting in. Thanks for the info.

Isn't the catalytic converter set in-line further down the exhaust? after the Y pipe. I don't think you can see the cat from that view.

Sweet deal man. Those look solid. How much did they cost you?

You could get them to change the cam seals, the crank seal and the thermostat while they're in there. I'm not sure what the going rate is, but thats a whack load of cash for a job that isn't too difficult if you have the tools, and an afternoon to kill.