madhatter_xe

I know what you're sayin, my old K5 Blazer had an even better turning radius, but you learn to deal with it. That grinding noise at full turn is a common problem, this write-up from the Garage probably covers what you're talking about: Front End Clunking/Squealing Noise When Turned To Lock Steering stops keep the front wheels from being turned past a certain point. The steering stops are built with plastic caps. How long would anyone expect those to last? Anyway, they fall off or wear out, and you have metal-to-metal contact between moving parts. The result is when going over bumps, with the steering turned to lock, such as when turning across curbs, you get a nasty sounding and feeling squealing/clunking. The solution is to grease the stops and contact areas, or to replace the plastic caps. There are four of them, two in front of your front wheels and two behind your front wheels. They are easy to find and grease without raising the vehicle. Another source of front end squeals or noises are the front differential crossmember bolts. Over time, the bolts can loosen, allowing the crossmember to shift slightly every now and then, causing noise from the front end...sometimes alarmingly nasty sounding. The fix is to re-torque the crossmember bolts. There are four bolts to re-torque, two on each side of the front crossmember. They are easily accessible from the front of the vehicle without jacking it up. I don't have the exact torque figures on hand, but simply cranking the bolts tight with a 1/2" drive ratchet worked for me. Cheers,

the kitchen sink...

That looks like the AIV assembly on the front driver side fender. Is that an AC line of some kind?

These guys make quality stuff, I have an idler arm brace from'em and it is rock solid. They also beef up OEM centerlinks with a 5yr guarantee. 88 is running one of these so he will probably have some more info. L & P

I have the suspension lift from 4x4parts.com and it works great. But for the UCA's you should check out Rough Country, they're running some good prices right now. If your torsion bars are sagging you could try reindexing them before buying new ones. I cranked mine up and they're holding fine.

I hear ya! When I put on my new UCA's I considered getting some longer bolts, but nobody, not even the Bolt Warehouse, stocked those things. Thankfully, the stock ones were long enough. Good luck though!

Yeah, that is one sharp looking ride! Nice work

Those look alot like Superlift UCA's, which I've heard are a high quality product.

Thanks, So it's called a Front Strut Rod bushing set! Too many names goin for this thing :confused: . Anyways, looks like the energy susp. PN is 7.7106

Anybody know the PN for these bushings for an 88 pathy from energy suspension? I can't find the PN on their website. thanks.

You don't need to pull the engine, you do need to remove the majority of the parts off the front of the engine and in the front engine bay, after that you can get to everything pretty easily. Since it is such a time-consuming job, most people change the water pump, thermostat, cam seals, t-belt and t-belt tensioner all at once. The job takes a while, but isn't too difficult, everything is usually well marked and it is easy to line everything up for TDC. A Chilton's or factory repair manual would make it alot easier too. On the other hand, it's not a job you want to chance messing up too badly either since it could result in permanent engine damage.

There are a bunch of threads on the topic on this site that have some good info and tips, you need to use the search function to find them. There was a "how-to" but it got kiboshed and nobody has made another one since. You can check this site out too, there's a thread somewhere that explains how to find the correct belt tension that I found useful. http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...wtopic.php?t=13

I just replaced mine with a Nissan part and it had 3 wires rather than one. You might be able to solder it together or something??...but i'd say probably not.

I have a Yakima rack and it is rock solid, no rattling at all. Their gear baskets hold a 35" tire and look pretty beefy. eBay usually has some good deals, the stuff is ridiculously expensive brand new.

Half Baked, maybe that's why you're having trouble remembering..

There's a guy on one of these sites running 33x12.50's on the factory 6.5jj Nissan wheels. That seems a bit extreme though..

I see what you're saying 88, but when the next best UCA's (SUperlift) are $350 CDN (not including the insane shipping to Canada) I'll stick it out with AC for a while. I only paid $120 for them so i'll run them for a few years before upgrading.

Hey oilman, I was thinking about getting some Superlift UCA's but managed to find a pair of used AC UCA's for pretty cheap, so I bought'em. Probably gonna install them in the next couple weeks. Just wondering what i have to look forward to What makes the AC UCA's crap? have they bent or didn't fit on installation? Their purpose seems so straight forward I'm not sure how they can mess up after being installed correctly. Thanks for any info/warnings!

Hey, maybe you have a loose vacuum hose or plug wire still from the job?? are you leaking any antifreeze from the water pump? or maybe that missing wrench is rattling around under the timing belt cover..

This site has a ton of quality used bikes under the Buy&Sell thread. Most of them in Canada. http://pinkbike.com/modules/news/

...so do you have coils in the front?? i'm running an '88 so i'm guessing the setup is a wee bit different. I was wondering about the AC arms but i guess i'll just have to get some and find out. -D

haha that proved true with my old Ranger....didn't do one oil change on it in like 3 years...ran great! theres a good chance that cam-seal had about 256,000KM on it...so it was overdue, the leak was still pretty insignificant..so hopefully the new one'll hold up for that long too

Hey, a bit off topic here, just wondering how the AC arms installed, did they line up precisely or were they a PITA like i've heard??

interesting point, i just did my t-belt, H20 pump, thrmstt and cam-seals and the passenger side seal had a small leak... i wonder why the passenger side seal would be more prone to leak?? -D

Yup, this link has more than enough info on the installation. http://www.damagedreality.com/fordcoil.html Good luck and post some pics!!