madhatter_xe

The current amount of hose being used is necessary, there are no kinks in the line. My gauge does show up to 50-60 psi when started, then as the oil heats up and thins it eventually drops to 0.

yeah, i'm going to do an oil/filter change tonight. I bought a Valvoline filter, but everybody keeps talkin bout how great NAPA is, so i'll give it a go. The hose is what came with the gauge....it's probably about 5ft. from the fitting in the engine to the gauge under my dash. I guess I'll see how it goes after the oil change, I'm putting some STP oil treatment in too.

well I pulled the sending unit, so there are no more wires to send false readings. Now I have an oil pressure gauge, which is reading 0 psi at idle. It may not be easy to get at regardless, but I'm wondering if I need to drop the pan to get to the oil pressure regulator bolt.

Does anybody know if I can get to the oil pressure regulator bolt without dropping the pan? I installed an oil pressure gauge the other day and noticed, in horror, that when my truck is warmed up the pressure drops to 0 psi at idle. This is not good. I am hoping 'maybe' the spring on the oil pressure regulator was jarred loose from hard wheeling or maybe my shady FRAM oil filter is the culprit. I'm not really in the mood to have this engine rebuilt or buy a new one. Edit: I should add, after some wheeling, my OP warning light blinked a few times, when I checked the sending unit it was full of water and dirt, so I figured that's why the light came on a couple times. So I yanked the sending unit and installed the oil pressure gauge instead.

woops, I didn't actually follow the link sssh I thought it was a link to rocky-road...-alcohol-

Looks like the site gives full credit to me. Rocky-Road White text on green background, it says, "Though parked for the moment, Aaron Wiltsey's Pathfinder is one of action. Just check out the air shot at the bottom of this page. Can you saw YEE-HAW!?!?!" what else do you need?

What's the deal with high-mileage? How is it different?

I'm also running the Kumho Venture MT's and they are gnarly tires. They have a nice deep lug pattern that will basically go through anything and they can be studded too...for crazy traction. The sidewalls aren't anything to write home about, but they get the job done. Quiet on the highway too.

I think the plastic spoilers came from the factory for a few years b/c I've seen a bunch of them around town, on 2 dr's too. I put an aluminum one on my 88 but I broke it off with my garage door. If anyone knows of some hinges for sale, let me know.

I know what you're sayin, my old K5 Blazer had an even better turning radius, but you learn to deal with it. That grinding noise at full turn is a common problem, this write-up from the Garage probably covers what you're talking about: Front End Clunking/Squealing Noise When Turned To Lock Steering stops keep the front wheels from being turned past a certain point. The steering stops are built with plastic caps. How long would anyone expect those to last? Anyway, they fall off or wear out, and you have metal-to-metal contact between moving parts. The result is when going over bumps, with the steering turned to lock, such as when turning across curbs, you get a nasty sounding and feeling squealing/clunking. The solution is to grease the stops and contact areas, or to replace the plastic caps. There are four of them, two in front of your front wheels and two behind your front wheels. They are easy to find and grease without raising the vehicle. Another source of front end squeals or noises are the front differential crossmember bolts. Over time, the bolts can loosen, allowing the crossmember to shift slightly every now and then, causing noise from the front end...sometimes alarmingly nasty sounding. The fix is to re-torque the crossmember bolts. There are four bolts to re-torque, two on each side of the front crossmember. They are easily accessible from the front of the vehicle without jacking it up. I don't have the exact torque figures on hand, but simply cranking the bolts tight with a 1/2" drive ratchet worked for me. Cheers,

the kitchen sink...

That looks like the AIV assembly on the front driver side fender. Is that an AC line of some kind?

These guys make quality stuff, I have an idler arm brace from'em and it is rock solid. They also beef up OEM centerlinks with a 5yr guarantee. 88 is running one of these so he will probably have some more info. L & P

I have the suspension lift from 4x4parts.com and it works great. But for the UCA's you should check out Rough Country, they're running some good prices right now. If your torsion bars are sagging you could try reindexing them before buying new ones. I cranked mine up and they're holding fine.

I hear ya! When I put on my new UCA's I considered getting some longer bolts, but nobody, not even the Bolt Warehouse, stocked those things. Thankfully, the stock ones were long enough. Good luck though!

Yeah, that is one sharp looking ride! Nice work

Those look alot like Superlift UCA's, which I've heard are a high quality product.

Thanks, So it's called a Front Strut Rod bushing set! Too many names goin for this thing :confused: . Anyways, looks like the energy susp. PN is 7.7106

Anybody know the PN for these bushings for an 88 pathy from energy suspension? I can't find the PN on their website. thanks.

You don't need to pull the engine, you do need to remove the majority of the parts off the front of the engine and in the front engine bay, after that you can get to everything pretty easily. Since it is such a time-consuming job, most people change the water pump, thermostat, cam seals, t-belt and t-belt tensioner all at once. The job takes a while, but isn't too difficult, everything is usually well marked and it is easy to line everything up for TDC. A Chilton's or factory repair manual would make it alot easier too. On the other hand, it's not a job you want to chance messing up too badly either since it could result in permanent engine damage.

Welcome from Regina!

There are a bunch of threads on the topic on this site that have some good info and tips, you need to use the search function to find them. There was a "how-to" but it got kiboshed and nobody has made another one since. You can check this site out too, there's a thread somewhere that explains how to find the correct belt tension that I found useful. http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...wtopic.php?t=13

I just replaced mine with a Nissan part and it had 3 wires rather than one. You might be able to solder it together or something??...but i'd say probably not.

I have a Yakima rack and it is rock solid, no rattling at all. Their gear baskets hold a 35" tire and look pretty beefy. eBay usually has some good deals, the stuff is ridiculously expensive brand new.

Half Baked, maybe that's why you're having trouble remembering..