madhatter_xe

thanks alot for the help JJ. Just to make sure I get this right, do I want the pointer to line up with the 0(first mark on the left) or do I want it 12 degrees past that? Yeah, I'm pretty sure the pulley came off the harmonic balancer at some point in the swap. So i might have to pull it apart and rotate the pulley....bah. I think I might have to look at the timing belt again too, its running just brutal and won't rev up at all. I trusted that the PO did it right, but it ain't lookin that way. I'll check out the timing in the morning and see if I can get her running a little better. Thanks again.

Hey thanks for the info. i'm sort of confused with the marks on the crank pulley. it says in the FSM that the 1st notch is 0 and then they go up in increments of 5 for each notch..so the third notch is 10. would just past the third notch work? or are these numbers A(after)TDC? I didn't really set the engine to TDC when i did the TB and cam seals and all that stuff, I just made sure nothing moved when i swapped everything out. how could i make sure i put the crank pulley back on the same way? if i put a screw driver or something in the spark plug hole for #1 cylinder and turned the engine over until its at TDC, should the marks line up with the timing pointer on the TB cover? the engine seems really gutless and i figure something must be way out. thanks again for any help.

hey guys, anybody know what the ignition timing should be set at on a 1988 V6? i just got the new engine in with some headers and its not running too smooth. currently i have it set at the 0 mark....or the first notch in the wheel. thanks.

umm...is there a c-clip in there? Check to see if there is a snap ring holding it in there, i am pretty sure there is one.

Like Charlie mentioned, it helps to take off the little shield and rotate it on its way out the front...other than that patience helps. I was on the brink of smashing one with a BFH to get it out. Thankfully the new one I bought from partsource had a smaller casing on it and was easy to re-install.

couldn't you find steel plate to weld in that is as strong, or stronger, than the stock pan? that'd probably be the cheapest/easiest way to go.

Thanks alot for the info man, but I think i'm past the point of no return. So i'll be crossing my fingers and knocking on wood daily.

The extra bungs are for the AIV hook-up, the egr connection and an 02 sensor i guess. I don't really even know if I "need" all that stuff hooked up, we don't have emission tests up here. I just don't do much welding and fabricating so i need some pipes that'll fit. The company is thinkin about paying for the return shipping now, so if they pay for it i'll probably just send them back. But if people are interested i'll sell'em. I think shipping could be ugly though, i'm in Canada....eh!

Hate to bring up this old thread again. But can anybody confirm if the Thorley headers for 87-89, PN-THY-464-1, will work on automatic trannies too? they say for manual's only. thanks alot for any info on this folks.

oh, well that clears it up. I'll just order the ones they list for a standard...since they look like they have 3 bungs. Thanks again 88.

Hey guys, I know this topic has been beaten to death but I can't find anything about Pacesetters used on a 87-89 V6 A/T pathfinder. Has anyone done this before? if so, does anybody know which ones to use? most of the sites wrongly list the 90-94 headers that only have one bung for 88 A/T Pathy's. Has anybody used the ones that are listed for a M/T? thanks alot for any help on this. I've already been sent the wrong ones once and i'd like to make sure the next set will actually work. Also, If anybody is looking for some Pacesetters for a 90-94 I have a brand new set of Pacesetter headers for $200+ shipping. I paid $216 for them but would rather sell them than mess around returning them to the website. I have some pics but for some reason i cannot upload pics onto this site.

I was thinkin more about this b/c my engine is already in and there's no turning back...and I figure if i'm just dropping in a used engine wouldn't it be the same as somebody letting a car sit for 6 months and then firing it up?

hmm. so this means i probably shouldn't have already put the pan back on?...bah...

like mentioned in the title, just wondering how you prime the oil pump on these engines? thanks.

Yup, these are the wrong headers. There is no bung for the AIV, the stupid site has the right ones listed for standards, and the newer headers listed for the automatics...bah!

thanks for the info 88. After looking around on the website, I see that they sell the Pacesetters with the 3 bungs for a Standard Transmission '88 pathfinder. Could they be different depending on auto or manual tranny? Here is the LINK with a picture.

Here is the link to the headers that i ordered, they say they're for 87-90..but they could be wrong... anybody know if these will fit my 88? the ones in the pic, are the same as the ones i got. it'd be great to find out before i drop the engine in. Thanks alot for any info!

aw bloody hell...this is gonna put a halt to the swap....

Hey guys, this post has me worried. I just got some Pacesetter headers for my 88 v6 and they only have 1 bung, 1 on the driver's side header and nothing on the collector. They bolt up to the block fine, but how could I make sure the company didn't send me the headers for 90+ Pathfinders by mistake? thanks in advance.

The rear main seals seems to be a common place to leak on older Pathfinders, they're a real PITA to replace. I wouldn't recommend using any of the "stop leak" stuff you can buy...but that is an option. Other than keeping the levels up you could put down a sheet of plywood to park over until you get it fixed.

Hey thanks for the help. I managed to get that plate out that I was talking about...not sure if its supposed to come out, but it came out after getting to some ugly bolts. For some reason I can't upload pics today, not sure why?? but the upload keeps failing. But after getting that plate off it opened things up nice and I pulled the bolts with a socket. Now I just need to sawzall the exhaust and she'll be ready to be pulled.

thanks Earth, I haven't loosened the tranny up yet...maybe i should try that next. i'll get some pics today.

is this a thin piece of sheet metal that goes all the way across the bottom of the bell housing? I have that loose, but there are tranny lines right in the way...the same tranny lines run over top of the oil pan. What do you do with these? bend them? ieeee...i'd like to avoid that. thanks.

Well i've hit my first roadblock during the engine removal process and I am nearly at my wits end. I cannot find a way to get those damn torque converter bolts out. I have removed the starter, and can only see about half of the bolt...and there doesn;t seem to be any way i can get a wrench or socket on it because of the angle through the hole. I even removed that metal bracket that sits above the starter and goes around the opening...that did nothing, so i removed the bracket on the other side of the tranny (which was a huge PITA) so i could shimmy that thin plate that sits over the torque converter over to see more of the bolt. That hasn't helped either! Am i missing something here?!? this design seems to be an evil move by Nissan. Help.

i am currently getting all new exhaust too, i should have the pacesetters on in a couple days and was planning to axe the Cat. Converter and run straight pipe to save some $$. Is it really that much louder that with the Cat? I'll still have a muffler on it. thanks for info.