Cuong Nguyen

I'll build something ugly one day. I dont have the skills as you do with welding and tube. Lol Looking good Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I was thinking along the lines the previous owner swapped the transmission and t case as a unit with another since it's easier to do than splitting. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Are you talking about a York compressor? Seen it on a vg33 just not on a vg33. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

You would have to take the transmissions apart to swap out the output shaft to keep the 4wd. Easy to do just a bit time consuming. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Yes. It's done externally. Now if that band is shot, it'll work better but mess things up in the long run. Look at my rebuild thread. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

To the fender and then the engine block. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

That's what she said. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

K and n drop in filter, high flow catalytic converter, and different exhaust. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Speedo gear could be the wrong one. Are you sure the transmission is filled up properly with the correct oil? If it was rebuilt properly you wouldn't have shifting issues. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

33x10x50s is doable with no body lift. You will lose full turn lock as your tires will rub the leaf Springs. I have a small build thread in member rides. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

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I'm spring under up front and coils in the rear but I have a 3" body lift to help with clearance. I notice that you don't have body lift. If all you plan on is 33x10.50s. Then I would recommend that you push the axle as far forward as possible unless you plan on running shackles up front. I have body clearance issues because I didn't push my axle forward at all. You will need to relocated your steering box forward as well. How much forward you go depends on clearance with your radiator and body which you will need to cut and move. This will help with oil pan clearance. All this is spring under with rancho 44044s or similar. I have early bronco 3.5" lift coils that I will put in the rear later. I am running BJ's offroad 3-4" springs which are stiffer than the 44044s. I may consider relocating everything forward in the future and reduce the lift. I like the 3" body lift as it gives me clearance to work under the hood and body. As you can see, I'm sitting pretty tall already. I have plenty of pictures of leaf spring SAS pathfinders on my computer that I"ll upload later for you to view.

It's about 4x4 and if you pull the wiring harness from your cd player you'll notice that the other end connects to the amp. It'd a small metal box with heat sink fins and holes in the body. I think the antenna plugs into it as well. It's located behind and below the cd player. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Sounds like the amp is shorting out. It's pretty common. The amp is located in the front under the head unit. It's best to bypass the amps anyways. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

That's good!

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35596-z24-to-vg30e-engine-conversion/ Looks like the stock z24 mounts should bolt right in. There are various bolt holes for the engine motor mounts to bolt to on the frame side.

The waggy shafts are getting harder to find for spare so chromos are the next option. I would keep the wide track width and throw spacers in the back or replace the rear axle with something cheaper and bigger to match the front if you're looking to save cost. Leaf springs you have a lot of options. Stock waggy packs with more/thicker leaves. and Chevy 52s for the rear. Of course, any yota spring pack, marlin crawler or trail gear packs will work. Although you may save money with leaves, the chunk of costs goes towards your driveshafts unless you can get them built good for less. Any shock will work. Bilsteins are good and just find the right valving for your needs as with any shock.

Sounds like BS to me. To have that excessive wear would mean you have no oil pressure and other problems. It doesn't take that long to replace a rear main seal. 2 days max for one person taking their time. the rear main goes out from the seal shrinking and cracking. A bur does not just magically manifest itself. How many miles is on the vehicle? About how long has it been leaking (mileage wise). Sounds like the messed up and don't want to own up to it. You do not owe the shop anything because they didn't fix anything. They should have called you first when they found the "problem". Instead, you had to call them for the to tell you what was wrong. I don't know what kind of reputation this shop holds but If it were me, I find a lawyer. I've been burned by too many shops already. so I do all my work or have the dealership do it.

not sure why he'd switch unless the motor was free. Anyways, He's better off making his own mounts as it would be custom as far as I know. Good luck to yall.

It's a 1-5/8" or 41mm if I remember right. You'll need a puller and a BMF and PB Blaster.

Measured my old ford coil springs, measured my new Ford coil springs, and measured my wagoneer leaf Springs. Took pictures of my altima or maxima e fan wiring as well as the relay box. Ordered new reverse drum and will possibly order a quest alternator. Need to study the wiring schematics and figure roof and sound insulation before I repair rust holes. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I had the same issues with mine. I removed them and that was the end of it. Who cares I'd the bolts snap off. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Details details Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

finished grinding all the excess leftover brackets. I hope I don't run into significant issues with the engine alignment when I finish rebuilding the transmission. It's been a money pit.

Club Frontier. Club xterra noas4x4club.com nissan4wheelers.com nc4x4 rme4x4 Ttora pirate4x4 Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk